Almera TSi
- Thread starter Dale
- Start date
looks fantastic dale, 
regarding the FMIC,
i have concluded that it is easier to fit one like yours and mine, if you have a P2 front bumper like simmo, leigh and kristian all have P2 front bumpers, but i found with mine i had to tilt it back a little and put it up behind the bumper support,
as P2 bumpers are longer,
this also brings it up a tad so i didnt have to do any bumper modding apart from the middle cut out,
i am going to link up both the rad fans so they both come on when the thermostat kicks them in rather than just the one,
and i never had any issues with over heating etc atall, so having the FMIC close to the rad is ok really,
stuart
regarding the FMIC,
i have concluded that it is easier to fit one like yours and mine, if you have a P2 front bumper like simmo, leigh and kristian all have P2 front bumpers, but i found with mine i had to tilt it back a little and put it up behind the bumper support,
as P2 bumpers are longer,
this also brings it up a tad so i didnt have to do any bumper modding apart from the middle cut out,
i am going to link up both the rad fans so they both come on when the thermostat kicks them in rather than just the one,
and i never had any issues with over heating etc atall, so having the FMIC close to the rad is ok really,
stuart
Stock GA14/GA16 crank angle sensors have only a single wire output with Crank and Phase (cam) position. Traditionally most I4 Nissan CAS sensors have two outputs with crank and cam signals separate. As well as this the pattern of the two CAS wheels are totally different. So another distributor had to be found which had the more common output which would then be compatible with the RNN14 ECU.
Once that was found it was simply then a case of making the required changes to the loom, fitting a knock sensor as the GA16 does not have one originally then a remap of the car.
Finally after far to much playing about with the old ECU the car is now mapped and behaving as it should have been in the first place. Unfortunately since no one else has ever pushed the other type of ECU so far, there was no way of knowing at the time how it would work. Now that I do this will be the way forward IMO for those with the GA16 engine.
Once that was found it was simply then a case of making the required changes to the loom, fitting a knock sensor as the GA16 does not have one originally then a remap of the car.
Finally after far to much playing about with the old ECU the car is now mapped and behaving as it should have been in the first place. Unfortunately since no one else has ever pushed the other type of ECU so far, there was no way of knowing at the time how it would work. Now that I do this will be the way forward IMO for those with the GA16 engine.
great work. would a dasket not been a simpler method?
No, the dastek is a piggyback unit so i'd still be stuck with the same problem using a non compliant GA/CG ECU.
fair play to ya mate it takes some comitment. just gunna take my time with mine and hopefully have it running right first time (fingers crossed). your car is the inspration to drive my project. what changes to the loom did you have to make?
This weekend i set about re-shimming the cylinder head...
Tools and parts required:
Feeler gauges (0.05 to 1mm blades)
Micrometer or Vernier Calipers
Shim set (in my case, a set of spares from previous engine)
The valve clearances were measured:
Nissan specify a hot engine checking clearance of INLET 0.21 to 0.49mm, EXHAUST 0.30 to 0.58mm.
To be fair, you can see my clearances werent too bad. But i wanted to minmise the annoying tapping noise from the valvetrain so aimed to gap them to 0.2mm. My feeler gauges only measured in 0.1mm increments after 0.2mm so measurements werent 100% accurate, but at least allowed me to see which ones were between 0.2 to 0.29mm, and those that were 0.3mm or above.
I then set about reshimming those that were 0.3mm clearance or above. All of those shims measured inbetween 2.38 to 2.44mm thickness. These shims were replaced with what spares i had available, using larger shims ranging from 2.47 to 2.51mm.
6 shims were replaced on the exhaust side, and 2 shims on the intake..
You can see the replaced shims here (those with no oil on them):
JWT S1's back in and timed up:
Clearances were rechecked after, resulting in 0.2mm clearances across the board.
End result?
Its smoother, quieter and most suprising of all is the performance difference, you probably wouldnt believe me if i said i was seeing boost at least 500rpm sooner, but yep...thats whats happened and i'm chuffed to bits. In fact the performance is so different and eager to make boost low down, that im getting a small amount of compressor surge at low rpm and that initially resulted in lots of tyre smoke through 2nd gear, which then ended up being clutch slip shortly after :thumb:Oh well..STAGE 4 Clutch coming soon.
I also splashed some paint on the VC too:
Tools and parts required:
Feeler gauges (0.05 to 1mm blades)
Micrometer or Vernier Calipers
Shim set (in my case, a set of spares from previous engine)
The valve clearances were measured:
Nissan specify a hot engine checking clearance of INLET 0.21 to 0.49mm, EXHAUST 0.30 to 0.58mm.
To be fair, you can see my clearances werent too bad. But i wanted to minmise the annoying tapping noise from the valvetrain so aimed to gap them to 0.2mm. My feeler gauges only measured in 0.1mm increments after 0.2mm so measurements werent 100% accurate, but at least allowed me to see which ones were between 0.2 to 0.29mm, and those that were 0.3mm or above.
I then set about reshimming those that were 0.3mm clearance or above. All of those shims measured inbetween 2.38 to 2.44mm thickness. These shims were replaced with what spares i had available, using larger shims ranging from 2.47 to 2.51mm.
6 shims were replaced on the exhaust side, and 2 shims on the intake..
You can see the replaced shims here (those with no oil on them):
JWT S1's back in and timed up:
Clearances were rechecked after, resulting in 0.2mm clearances across the board.
End result?
Its smoother, quieter and most suprising of all is the performance difference, you probably wouldnt believe me if i said i was seeing boost at least 500rpm sooner, but yep...thats whats happened and i'm chuffed to bits. In fact the performance is so different and eager to make boost low down, that im getting a small amount of compressor surge at low rpm and that initially resulted in lots of tyre smoke through 2nd gear, which then ended up being clutch slip shortly after :thumb:Oh well..STAGE 4 Clutch coming soon.
I also splashed some paint on the VC too:
seconded, hopefully with its sister car next to it great work mate
great work mate
not too sure that the yellow works.... but it still looks great
