B15 Sentra SE (US)

Hoping the block is done this week, or next. So, here's the new list of parts. Should be the last build for a while: (all parts are BNIB if not specified)

Siemens/Deka FI114212 220lbs/hr
VE Fuel Rail custom modded by Doug Fab
Tomei Cams 143039 RR cams
VET HG
VE Oil pump kit
New timing chain
New guides
VC gaskets
Mazword head studs (normal)
ARP main studs
Tial BOV
"2" Walbro E85 pumps
Arias Zero Silicone pistons 10:1 with chromoly rings
Upgraded wrist pins from Elmer @ Arias 22mm pin, 2.350 long HD .230 wall
Crower pro-billet rods
Doug Fab RR Intake
Q45 TB-used
Ported RR Head-used
PTE6262 .64 A/R
50-series JB15 Trans-used
Altima Hubs with axles-used
Clutchmasters FX500
Nismo S13/S14 Flywheel
 
The specs list is interesting and that manifold & turbo setup is quite impressive but have you done all the anti-corrosion work necessary for the car? you can see the braces giving up quite well.. they might even make an side-impact hurt more instead of help the chassis, the B15s were made in mexico so the anti-corrosion isn't that good for the body, chassis or suspension most likely, though you don't have much else stock than the body and chassis, is the output around 320?

Though i guess in U.S. the problems are quite a lot lesser than here in Europe, also British never were good at making cars so the quality might be even worse in the end, however the anti-corrosion is the car's owner's job, not the factory's, after the 'rust-free warranty' that is.

Few questions though, why the Q45 brakes? more cost efficient than, for example K-Sport custom ones? or just realizing the fact of no need for that good brakes? do you use the car for circuits? and last but not least, how well does the setup keep the power up with the suspension? there are quite many reasons why FF is not a popular tuner car, one of the reasons being losing power because of the setup, the N16/B15's basics does give it's 1.8 even at a stock a quite good strengths, considering that the transmission is literally an FWD version of SR's gearbox.
 
Nothing done for anti corrosion. I am about 10miles from Washington DC, so the weather is about 30-90 F, through the year. Car hasn't seen snow or ice much, except in its early days. Hardly any rust on the car, just surface rust. Most of which is cleaned off. I am thinking about chassis filling sometime down the road, but after the engine is where I want it.

Q45 brakes were mainly due to cost. A buddy did the r&d, so I just went down to his house and swapped them on. Using Carbotech pads, ss lines and synthetic fluid. Brakes were about 300usd total. Including calipers, redrilled rotors, carbotech pads, ss lines and fluid.

Car was about 400whp with the last turbo. Hoping for 500+whp with this pte6262. I just drive it on the weekends and cruise. Again, once it's where I want it, plan is for panhard bar and roll cage. That was the plan the week the rod went through the block and pan, but it cancelled those.
 
Nothing done for anti corrosion. I am about 10miles from Washington DC, so the weather is about 30-90 F, through the year. Car hasn't seen snow or ice much, except in its early days. Hardly any rust on the car, just surface rust. Most of which is cleaned off. I am thinking about chassis filling sometime down the road, but after the engine is where I want it.

Q45 brakes were mainly due to cost. A buddy did the r&d, so I just went down to his house and swapped them on. Using Carbotech pads, ss lines and synthetic fluid. Brakes were about 300usd total. Including calipers, redrilled rotors, carbotech pads, ss lines and fluid.

Car was about 400whp with the last turbo. Hoping for 500+whp with this pte6262. I just drive it on the weekends and cruise. Again, once it's where I want it, plan is for panhard bar and roll cage. That was the plan the week the rod went through the block and pan, but it cancelled those.

Sounds reasonable, and even the stock brakes are quite powerful if they're in proper condition, latest brake test i had was around 13 kNs overall for the car with just new rotors and brake pads, got myself new calipers and handbrake cables which might take it to around 14-14.5, though the car's weight has gone up so the power is probably needed..

300 bucks for that good brakes sounds like heaven to me, the best i could get with 300 is one corner if new, if used, maybe the 2 front calipers and their mounts from an 300ZX or such, sucks to be in a country that has tax-everything.

Ever thought of supercharging your B15? there's only been one in AOC trying to make a supercharged N16/B15 and he wasn't allowed to make it street legal because of MOT, tough luck i guess.
 
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The power with 400whp was great. It had quite a bit of torque steer, but the suspension and brakes were working very well. I do need to upgrade the rear bushings, but not much else hasn't been replaced. I have not seen a supercharged sr20 b15 or n16. Do you have a link? I always wanted a dual charged car. No reason, other than just because. haha

I think with the new set-up, driving around will not be feasible, but there's only 1 way to find out. Of course, I will drive around mainly on low boost (12psi). So that should work great on the street, especially after a roll bar and such.
 
The power with 400whp was great. It had quite a bit of torque steer, but the suspension and brakes were working very well. I do need to upgrade the rear bushings, but not much else hasn't been replaced. I have not seen a supercharged sr20 b15 or n16. Do you have a link? I always wanted a dual charged car. No reason, other than just because. haha

I think with the new set-up, driving around will not be feasible, but there's only 1 way to find out. Of course, I will drive around mainly on low boost (12psi). So that should work great on the street, especially after a roll bar and such.

Torque steer is the downside in a powerful FF, the way the car & driver handle is different, though if you think of it nobody gets to utilize more than maybe 210-280 horses on the highways and 80-160 horses in city, so basically all power over 300hp in 'casual' usage is theoretically only for bragging rights, SR20VET's potential is quite impressive i must say... even the SR20VE is something i'd love to put under the hood of my N16, the VET could even utilize AWD system onto the car, however that'd require quite a lot of work with the exhaust, chassis and rear axle, however N16/B15 with AWD would be quite great, using an SR20 for RWD could be a interesting project also, too bad it's somewhat impossible without money & imagination.

I think the guy with the supercharged N16 was Almerasleeper, he was making it from the stock QG18DE and adding the supercharger from a Mini, his project has been quite popular here in AOC if i'm not wrong, couldn't find the thread by quick search but it is there somewhere, hopefully.

"Paul had his bonnet down most of the time. Best time was when we heard a guy walk past and say 'supercharger inside!? yeah right'. At which point Paul popped the bonnet and him and his crowd went deathly quiet :D[/]" <- that guy.
 
Lol, that's awesome! I did want awd, but would take someone to possibly weld the rear to my car. Definitely takes a lot of money. I'm hoping this RR motor lasts quite a while.
 
Lol, that's awesome! I did want awd, but would take someone to possibly weld the rear to my car. Definitely takes a lot of money. I'm hoping this RR motor lasts quite a while.

Yeah, it would require quite a lot of work hours and money, configuring the location of the rear axle and drive trains.

The engine should be good, the SR20VET in the X-Trails has been making quite good mileages before starting to die, and even then you can just overhaul it, the engine should be fine even with high power setups if you ain't too rough to it.
 
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