Also, you mentioned an ISO adaptor to fit the nissan loom. There was an ISO-Sony adaptor with the Sony unit, and an ISO-Alpine adaptor with the Alpine unit. The car was already ISO wired. Same situation with my dad's Peugeot Boxer van, which made it dead easy to put the Sony out of the Mera into his van for him (along with the steering column control).
also cant see it being a diffrence between the phases because it happend on both my gti's one was a p1 and the other a p2
well i cant say for sure on the requirment for a Nissan to ISO adapter requirment, I know my brothers already had one fitted and that was a Clarion unit...
but im only advising you, if you dont want to take it then thats fair enough, but i would *STRONGLY* advise anybody who has their HU earthed via the aerial to sort their earth out. Simple test for this. Disconnect the aerial from the back of the HU and try and switch it on. If its on then it should be ok, if not then it will req a new earth
but im only advising you, if you dont want to take it then thats fair enough, but i would *STRONGLY* advise anybody who has their HU earthed via the aerial to sort their earth out. Simple test for this. Disconnect the aerial from the back of the HU and try and switch it on. If its on then it should be ok, if not then it will req a new earth
im pritty sure all n15s earth throught the aerial so looks like we all got a job on our hands if its unsafe lol, going to have a look at mine at weekend
Darren198712
Just chillin'
24seven said:
It should not make a difference. because if u put a new earth in its still going to be earthed though the aerial
I am sure earthing though the aerial is safe. the BMW 525 X Reg is earthed though the aerial port as well (my uncle changed his unit the other day)
A good earth would be good if u got some thing like 4x50 watt.
Darren198712
Just chillin'
SplanK said:
How about if the cage is earthed ? i am sure the cage is closer then the earth cable
I thought its the shortest route not the easiest route.
on my old mera' the earth was wired to the cage, but i think the aerial works fine, i doubt there is a big risk with doing it as it seems that most people have wired it up so that the earth is the aerial!
Darren198712
Just chillin'
dub_almera said:
Thats what i thorght but its best to have the earth though cable. I have mine earthed via cable because my aerial does not touch the car body
Darren198712 said:
electricity takes the route to earth with the least resistance, if a short length of conductor has a higher resistance than a long length of conductor with a lower total resistance then it will travel along the longer length.
also when i changed my hu for my dvd player it never worked without the ariel also, i did move it to the cubby hole at the bottom of the centre console though so the new cage isnt earthed, also since fitting i have started getting electrical noise through the speakers and my radio reception has gone downhill, i was just putting it down to the hu being a cheapy!
D
Daveip
Guest
right ... sorry to bring this topic which is a little old .. i can't sleep and i'm bored
basically ... you're ok to earth through the aerial. its not ideal as the aerial isn't designed to earth things. so those that are a little worried about fire ... its ok.
if we take, say, a 4x60w H/U ... its 60W Max ... not RMS from what i remember. So do the maths, and its only an 18amp spike ... nothing much going through an aerial really. if you think your h/u is outputting at a total of 240w RMS through a puny cable that runs around the back of your dash ... don't be silly.
if the radio will only work if its "bolted" into the car ... thats fine. all radios are internally grounded to their casings and that will take a lot of amps! if the radio only works with the "cage" (the thing that you slot your radio into and it clips to your radio) then thats not ideal. the cage is probably touching some metal part of something behind the dashboard, and because the cage is "floating" off the center console ... thats not ideal because the connection from the cage to the metal part of the car is not "semi permanent."
if your head unit works plugged into the loom with the aerial out (i.e. you hold it in your hands without it touching anything and the radio picks up jack all) you're in an ideal situation because as long as your radio is connected up to your loom ... you don't have to worry about grounding issues at all.
final word ... if the thing works and your happy with it ... its fine (except if it only works when its in a cage)
edit: forgot .. about the whole topic. =S
if it don't work then plug something into your lighter socket (like a gps or whatever) if it works then there aint a problem with your fuse box ... you can stop looking there.
next ... make sure every single one of the pins on your wiring loom to the radio is pushed into the the connector properly and hasn't popped out. it is possible. make sure your aerial is plugged in because it could earth through the radio.
failing that ... get a multimeter ... set it to show voltage ... make sure one probe end touches a bare metal part of the car and then use the other prob to check the red and yellow wires (go from the back of the connector and its red and yellow on a square ISO connector) for voltage and make sure its about 14.4 volts with the engine on. you won't get shocked or anything ... its perfectly safe. if you don't have the square ISO connector, you could check every wire on the LARGE nissan rectangular connector. i can't tell you which wire it is because i can't remember
if you don't get a permanent voltage then you might need to run a permanent live wire from the fuse box to your radio or you could get a mate to do it.
diagnosing the problem should only go that far. if the radio works in another car and not yours and you've gone through the whole process then i just recommend you pop into an autoelectricians.
basically ... you're ok to earth through the aerial. its not ideal as the aerial isn't designed to earth things. so those that are a little worried about fire ... its ok.
if we take, say, a 4x60w H/U ... its 60W Max ... not RMS from what i remember. So do the maths, and its only an 18amp spike ... nothing much going through an aerial really. if you think your h/u is outputting at a total of 240w RMS through a puny cable that runs around the back of your dash ... don't be silly.
if the radio will only work if its "bolted" into the car ... thats fine. all radios are internally grounded to their casings and that will take a lot of amps! if the radio only works with the "cage" (the thing that you slot your radio into and it clips to your radio) then thats not ideal. the cage is probably touching some metal part of something behind the dashboard, and because the cage is "floating" off the center console ... thats not ideal because the connection from the cage to the metal part of the car is not "semi permanent."
if your head unit works plugged into the loom with the aerial out (i.e. you hold it in your hands without it touching anything and the radio picks up jack all) you're in an ideal situation because as long as your radio is connected up to your loom ... you don't have to worry about grounding issues at all.
final word ... if the thing works and your happy with it ... its fine (except if it only works when its in a cage)
edit: forgot .. about the whole topic. =S
if it don't work then plug something into your lighter socket (like a gps or whatever) if it works then there aint a problem with your fuse box ... you can stop looking there.
next ... make sure every single one of the pins on your wiring loom to the radio is pushed into the the connector properly and hasn't popped out. it is possible. make sure your aerial is plugged in because it could earth through the radio.
failing that ... get a multimeter ... set it to show voltage ... make sure one probe end touches a bare metal part of the car and then use the other prob to check the red and yellow wires (go from the back of the connector and its red and yellow on a square ISO connector) for voltage and make sure its about 14.4 volts with the engine on. you won't get shocked or anything ... its perfectly safe. if you don't have the square ISO connector, you could check every wire on the LARGE nissan rectangular connector. i can't tell you which wire it is because i can't remember
if you don't get a permanent voltage then you might need to run a permanent live wire from the fuse box to your radio or you could get a mate to do it.
diagnosing the problem should only go that far. if the radio works in another car and not yours and you've gone through the whole process then i just recommend you pop into an autoelectricians.