GA16DE-T vs SR20VE - N15 - 2010 Summer Project

Which Route to go for

  • GA16DE-T - Turbo existing engine

    Votes: 2 9.5%
  • SR20VE - Put a SR20 VVL motor in

    Votes: 4 19.0%
  • Unicorn Power

    Votes: 5 23.8%
  • It Will Never Happen

    Votes: 10 47.6%

  • Total voters
    21
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Ive really come to appreciate N15's a whole lot more over recent months and progression of my current project car has furthered this. Heck I have even got my brother to appreciate them more whom usually wouldn't be interested in anything bar a lexus soarer 2.5L turbo.

I love my cars looks, and way it handles its even damn pokey for a N/A GA16DE

But.. its not enough might of been enough for me when I was 18 but im going to be 21 soon insurrence has come back into realms of reality in terms of pricing :)


Route 1)

SR20VE

A) Get SR20DE in and working £500
B) Get Clifford Alarm recoded for new imob/nats system £200
C) Import SR20VE engine £800
D) Mapping (Both routes need it mind, +Greddy MSS £500)

In short route 1 would get me in the region of 170-190bhp and 140ft/lbs torque thereabouts

Now thats really just getting a SR20VE in and working, before tuning etc

With total build cost £2000 with ease

maxim3838img600x4501263.jpg




Route 2

GA16DE-T

A) Turbo Manifold/Downpipe £250
B) Turbo £250 T25
C) FMIC/Pipes/Induction Filter/Uprated injectors/Fuel Pump £250
D) Oil sandwich plates & Oil cooler/Oil feed & Lines/BOV/Crank Catch Tank & Filters £250
E) Boost Gauge/Controller £50

Remapped & Dynoed £400/£500

160-200bhp with 140-160 ft/lbs torque thereabouts... but as dales proven with stage 2 internal upgrades pistons/cams etc 180ft/lbs torque and 240bhp is very achievable ;)

Total Build cost £1500 roughly, could be lower if I get lucky sourcing parts etc


553210818_EkKuK-M.jpg
 
I dont know Eddie, depends what you want to do with the car really.

A) Do you want something fast and smooth for track/backroad action?
or
B) Do you want something to waste chavs off the lights with?
 
fuck sake.

1. your worse than darren for being an indecisive cunt
2. why did i bother writing an extensive list of parts needed to turbo a GA if you are only gonna sugar coat your "option" by listing the 5 easy things. £250 for a T25? this instantly shows the knowledge you have towards a turbo build. mani for 250 quid? show me where you are gonna find a GA turbo mani AND a downpipenfor 250 quid...
3. dont go asking me for a full rundown on how to turbo a GA, i cba explaining it over msn to someone siting on the other end that is quite honestly high out there tree.
 
1) I was of the idea turbo route was really expensive


2)Simplified for easy reading..

And a T25 for refference

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/garrett-t2-t25-hybrid-turbo-renault-5-metro-mini-polo_W0QQitemZ130366216577QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item1e5a6e9981






when its apparent a QG manifold fits GA.. this premade option comes up

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390104307316&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

tb11171b.jpg


So both mani/turbo sub £200... and thats being fussy on the turbo ;)

3) Im quite capable myself, getting information outa you is like trying to bleed a rock..
 
Why not SR20DET?
Cheaper engine than a SR20VE..
and
Cheaper to turbo than a GA16DE..

Turboing a SR20 is one extra step adding

SR20 drop £250-£500 + £200 alarm recoding

As far as im aware its equal costing turboing a GA/SR as u still need all the oil lines/bov/FMIC/pipes

Premade turbo manifolds avaible for both SR/GA around £200 mark

And T25/T28 turbo would probably be option on both too.


SR20 turbo would be more than I would want, quite like the idea of the GA's power to weight ratio and ive got a solid GA sitting in my engine bay allready kinda makes sense :lol:
 
Its a LOT easier to turbo an SR.
Pulsar mani, £20...
Pulsar Oil/Water lines, £60.
S14 370cc Injectors direct fit to stock rail, £60/£60.
Cometic Gasket off-the-shelf £70.
Everything's easier and cheaper.
Joe
 
75% of people think eddies in dreamland.

statistical fact

Im just weighing up my options I dont like to have to do something more then once, do it right first time ;)

Dont wana be looking back in 2 years time £2000 spent and wish I went turbo or VVL visa versa wana be able to know ive made the right choice from the off...

Ive allready done alot to my motor, and ive done alot to my previous car.
 
Its a LOT easier to turbo an SR.
Pulsar mani, £20...
Pulsar Oil/Water lines, £60.
S14 370cc Injectors direct fit to stock rail, £60/£60.
Cometic Gasket off-the-shelf £70.
Everything's easier and cheaper.
Joe

Very true turbo build works out cheaper for those items, but majority of the cost of that build would lie with first step getting SR20 in and working and recoded to my alarm £500/£750 one off cost just there

If SR20 was allready in, we wouldnt even be having this conversation but thats another story :lol:
 
why is your alarm the deciding factor for everything....

Its not necessarily the final deciding factor but when Leigh paid a good amount of money over half a grand installing it I couldn't condone ripping it out so it must be worked around but this comes at a cost unfortunately sub £200 via Leighs contact
 
not being funny but like what?

not trying to be an arse but that stuff in your sig is a few bolt-ons tbh.

have you done a cam swap or anything like that? did you do your clutch?

Might not of dropped an engine out, but more to the point I have spent genuine hard earned ££ and lots of it over the years on both car builds. More saying I have the will to get things done when necessary.

Everyone has to start somewhere ;)
 
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