N16 DCi Fuel Pump / ECU Reset Proceedure


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Found an ECU & Pump reset procedure a while back for the Nissan Navara on their owners club forums. It recently came up that a reset needed to be done on a 2.2 DCi P12 Primera, but Nissan wanted £90... So I posted the link to the nav forums on the off chance it might work. I know that the ECUs have the same Pin outs so very similar if not identical, so it was worth a shot.

It worked! Works on the N16 Almera too :)

Source: nissan-navara.net


Thanks to Boohoo for reading through the workshop manual, resetting ECU and FUEL pump MAY help in cutting down on that horrible tapping noise that the D40 suffers from.
Ive carryed out this reset and the engine is alot smoother, more responsive, less smokey and alot less tappy.

To carry out the reset carry out the following

Turn ingnition on so all dash lights come on.

Wait 3 seconds

PUMP accelerator pedel 5 times within 5 seconds....

with foot now OFF accelerator wait 7 seconds...

After 7 seconds press and hold down accelerator pedel for 10 seconds...

Atfer 10 seconds the Engine Managment Light will start to flash, at this point remove foot from accelerator.

the Nav is now in diag mode, so let the EML flash for a bit. the press and hold the acclerator pedel down for more than 10 seconds..this will then reset ECU and fuel pump etc......and put them into learning mode.

NOTE: When the EML light is flashing, this is listing possible fault codes... so if you know how to read the fault codes or know the sequences then you can figure out any possible faults with your Nav with out getting the dealer to do it!!
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I'm running a 2.2 '02 Almera Tino, manufactured in march so its pre facelift, no suction control valve and its direct injection not the later common rail

Tried to do the fuel pump reset procedure but didn't get any engine management come up, infact I don't think it even worked

Lately the tino has become slow, almost like restricted power, foot down and not much happens, partners k11 micra 1.0 overtakes me easily :rolleyes: so tried the reset as I did have an issue a few months back with the common cold start but turned out it was just a loose pipe at the back, was running sweet as since

Yesterday I tried the reset procedure again once when cold and again after a good long drive and after the pedal is held down I did hear a faint kind of electrical twang (sorry best way of describing it ) :oops: after finishing off it seemed like it worked as it spooled up and went absolutely fine, after about 5 mins driving it was back to normal, I thought maybe the ECU was 'learning' so was fine but like I say after about 5 mins it just went into what seems like restricted mode

Its a 2.2 YD22DDT (VP44 pump) not the common rail, mpg is weirdly still really good o_O

So I'm wondering if the reset procedure only works on the DDTi engines and not the earlier DDT? And if there are no faults recorded how do you know as I have no EML come up either steady or flashing so I don't know if I'm even doing it right

I did look in FSM here under phase 1 but couldn't find anything, probably because the fuel pump is part of the whole assembly I'm guessing?
Hello Kam,

I'm running the same Almera Tino DI 2.2 '02 , manufactured in December its direct injection

Did you manage to do fuel pump reset?

I' m having the same problem with my Tino has become slow, almost like restricted power.

Any progress with this also?


I've had no luck doing this reset on my Tino, I've tried a few variations and tweaks to it and still nothing

I just changed the fuel filter on mine and bang - difference is like night and day now, all sorted so change that first
nice. works a treat on my 54 plate Tino 2.2 DCi [136]. still not cured my rough idle, hesitation etc. New SCV now (

I have TINO 2.2 DI year 2002 .I am having problem to get any hill maximum 1500-200 rpm.I did a diagnostic check and only 2 errors i have P0100 and P0120.For the P0100 i did clean MAF and for P0120 i just did lock reset.Usually i am driving on city and sometimes is very dangerous as need to jump in traffic and car barely moves.

Perhaps its common problem and anyone knows what might got into the car?

I have a 2.2 xtrail and I have major diesel knock what would I need to adjust or software used to correct the fuel timing?
I have a 2.2 xtrail and I have major diesel knock what would I need to adjust or software used to correct the fuel timing?
Basically in my experience, a knock is simply a bad fire in 1 of the cylinders. Most of the time it's the emission filters cause the problem. i drive a 2.2dci Almera. at 113,000miles i put a plate in the EGR to block the burnt exhaust gases being sucked back around into the clean air and fuel mix.ExhaustGasReturn EGR (load of shite) i also took out the catalytic converter which was right in front of cylinder 3. cylinder 3 was caked with carbon deposit from the EGR gases and the backpressure from the cat every time you come off the throttle. so at 113,000miles, I deleted both cat and EGR , my Almera is at 270,000+miles now and flying it. I'm no expert nor mechanic but i believe they just block themselves up because of all the emission filters, then carbon cakes the tips of the injectors which causes bad mist/spray which = rough running or knocking. So in my opinion what you could try is, plate the EGR valve, to make sure that no burnt gases are getting back into the clean air and fuel mix. this will throw up engine management light, i took out the bulb 6 years ago lol, but if ya, not a roughneck like me you could pay €50 to have a diagnostic guy switch it off. Then get professional carbon cleaner guys to drop round and do a carbon clean on your jeep, they run fuel/gas through it to clean off all the deposits. (do some research on which is best type of carbon cleaning service) don't mistake a bad fire in one of the cylinders for a big end bearing knock that's much more serious. Here ya gonna love these guys , they an absolute God send: https://www.youtube.com/c/Westyorkshireengineservicesbradford/featured they Nissan dci specialists they do lots of videos and have a video on a big end bearing knock.
but usually, they just block themselves up with carbon. so delete cat and EGR or at least the EGR then carbon clean and drive away she should be running sweet mate, also i change my oil about every 4,000miles gulf G formula fully synthetic 5w40 i also have a sump plug magnet. ebay €10 there's always little fragments on it even at 4,000mile service, i tried 10w40 in the video but back to 5w40 now i buy it out of England 20litres only €100 on ebay.
best of luck Regards Adam
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