Nissan Pulsar VZR N1 1.6 to 2.0 Project

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by POC, Jan 14, 2009.

  1. POC

    POC

    Messages:
    856
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    Location:
    Ireland
    Model:
    VZR
    Chassis:
    N15
    My project that I’ve been working on for over a year now between researching about how engine parts work (seen has I’m no mechanic!), finding parts for the build and just reading hundreds of forums inside out trying to get as much information to convert the famous Nissan Pulsar VZR N1 from a 1.6 litre to a 2litre displacement, not to gain a huge amount of hp but more for torque. Looking for information has not been easy as a lot of people have talked about this build but very few have actually done it, so instead of just doing a normal project thread I have included the some research for others who are interested.

    My plan is to simply bolt the N1 head onto the sr20ve engine, the engine block for the SR16VE N1 is the same as the SR20VE, it also has the same cylinder bore, but crankshaft has a shorter stroke, which lowers the displacement. The SR16VE N1 was highly tuned by autech in fact every engine was hand built this being one of the reasons for its huge selling price when it was brought to the market. This engine still holds the title for the most powerful 1.6L production car in the world, 200ps(197hp).

    Any SR20 block can be used but if you use the non VVL model like the sr20de you would need to do some block work like drilling for an oil feed to head or alternatively you can just use your existing block and use crank and rods from sr20(same as a stroker kit) you will also need to get a piston to suit. I decided to use the sr20ve as it already has vvl so little work is needed to combine an N1 head with the sr20 and the sr20ve has a 4cw crank allowing faster rpms compared to the sr20de having a heavier 8cw crank.

    The plan was to keep it simple with block and then add some nice mods (list to follow) to help performance, Ecu upgrade either a piggy back or standalone I haven’t decided yet, suspension and handling upgrades, brake upgrade, wheel upgrade, respray with change of colour and some minor body changes, car diet! (Lose a lot of weight), seat upgrade and maybe more along the way! The car is going to be a road/track car.

    RESEARCH

    SR16VE
    The 1.6 L (1596 cc) SR16VE has Nissan's Neo VVL variable valve timing with lift control. It produces 175 PS (129 kW) @7800 rpm and 119 ft•lbf (161 Nm) @7200 rpm. Compression ratio for this engine is 11:1. This was the used engine in the standard Pulsar VZR, this engine can be used exactly the same for the 2litre conversion.

    SR16VE N1
    The 1.6 L (1596 cc) SR16VE has Nissan's Neo VVL variable valve timing with lift control, It made 200 PS (147 kW) @ 7800 rpm and 134 ft lb (181 Nm) @ 7600 rpm. Compression ratio for this engine is 11.9:1. It held the highest specific output ever for a naturally aspirated production car, at 123.125hp/litre until the Honda F20C engine was released in the Honda S2000.

    The N1 has 2 versions, version 1 1997 to early 1998 sold complete at production of 400 units, 200 lucino and 200 pulsar, version 2 late 98-00 only sold 36 units, main reason being the price of 3.2 million yen at the time was more expensive than a Mitsubishi Evolution. They had planned on a version 3 but after version 2’s poor sales figures this was abandoned.


    The SR16VE N1 had a lot of differences over the standard sr16ve engine some include:
    • Ported and polished head with 1mm skimmed off,
    • Up rated valve springs and retainers ( many ve owners prefer the n1 valve springs to titanium because there is no maintenance required to them),
    • Larger profiled cams,
    • Larger intake and larger throttle body, ( The throttle body is so large that there is a butterfly valve in the intake system to stop the engine suffocating itself at low RPM),
    • Modified exhaust manifold ( Apparently Nissan employed fujitsubo to make the inlet and exhaust manifolds how true anybody’s guess but on examination they are remarkable similar to flow and design)
    • Lower comp pistons ( with the head skimmed the comp with the original ve pistons would have been to high)
    • 4cw lighter balanced crank,
    • Lightened flywheel,
    • And of course 2 fuel rails each with 4 injectors so in total 8x333cc injectors,

    SR20VE
    The SR20VE was not available to the European market. There have been two main versions of this engine. The first version made 187 hp (139 kW) and 145 lb•ft (197 N•m) torque. Compression ratio for this engine is 10.3:1. This engine was used by Nissan from 1997 to 2001. It is found in the Nissan Primera, Nissan Bluebird, and the Nissan Wingroad.
    The second variant of the SR20VE is found only in the 2001 and up, P12 Nissan Primera. This version of the SR20VE makes 204 hp (152 kW), and 152 lb/ft torque. This engine is commonly known as the SR20VE '20V'. Although, in automotive terms, '20V' would normally be interpreted as having twenty valves, this is incorrect. The name '20V' is the name of the trim level of the Nissan Primera that it is found in. It is also a shortened version of the name SR20VE. This engine has 16 valves like the rest of the SR20 engines. This newer '20V' engine, is the only SR20 engine to get a restyled valve cover. It also has an upgraded intake manifold, which has longer runners and a larger 70 mm (2.8 in) throttle body (earlier SR20VE has 60mm).

    NEO VVL
    Nissan Ecology Oriented Variable Valve Lift and Timing (commonly known as VVL) is an automobile variable valve timing technology developed by Nissan. It was Nissans answer to VTEC! VVL varies the timing, duration, and lift of valves by using hydraulic pressure switch between two different sets of camshaft lobes. It functions similarly to Honda's VTEC system.





    THE CAR

    Some pictures of the car when I first got it....

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]



    EXPECTED SPEC LIST

    ENGINE
    SR20VE N1
    JWT 9lb lightweight flywheel
    Quickshift
    JWT stage3 clutch
    Freak manifold
    3” collector
    De-cat
    Nismo cat back
    Lightweight Under drive GSpec Crank pulley
    Lightweight Overdrive GSpec water pulley
    New Valve cover
    Performance Leads
    NGK performance Iridium Plugs
    Oil cooler
    Earthing system
    Engine torque damper
    Nismo 1.3kg rad cap
    JWT pop charger induction kit
    Cold air feed

    TUNING
    Still unsure which ecu to go with and i don’t have alot of options as not many people know much about the N1.


    SUSPENSION AND HANDLING
    Tein coilovers
    Tein pillow ball top mounts
    Cusco front alum strut brace
    Cusco Rear alum strut brace
    Whiteline rear adjustable sway bar

    Brakes
    Front Fastbrakes 280mm drilled and grooved discs
    Front Willwood 4 pot callipers
    Rear Drilled and grooved discs
    Stainless steel braided hoses
    EBC yellow stuff pads
    Dot 5.1 Fluid

    Wheels
    16” Lightweight Alloys
    Toyo R888

    Interior
    2*Bride Seats
    Stripped rear interior
    Half bolt in roll cage
    Oil temp gauge
    Oil Pressure gauge
    Water temp gauge
    Shift Light

    Body
    Resprayed Nissan silvia S15 gunmetal Grey
    VZR Side skirts
    VZR Rear caps
    Nismo front splitter
    Deglobed indicators
    Suteki air intake vent on pass indicator
    Side strips removed
    Rear wiper removed




    BUILD



    ENGINE BUILD.....

    Finally I get to start work on the engine!!

    A picture of some of the parts that I had building up in the spare room!!

    [​IMG]

    Here is pic of sr20ve engine when it arrived

    [​IMG]

    The N1 engine

    [​IMG]

    Now to start stripping.....!
    First was to strip down sr20ve engine so head could be taken off.

    [​IMG]

    SR20VE pistons

    [​IMG]

    S20ve cams

    [​IMG]

    Sr20 block with head off and old gasket cleaned off


    [​IMG]

    Then to do exact same to N1

    [​IMG]

    N1 cams

    [​IMG]

    N1 Pistons
    [​IMG]

    N1 head

    [​IMG]

    Then to start bolting it all back together...

    New steel head gasket

    [​IMG]

    Lightweight flywheel weights just over 9lbs

    [​IMG]

    New clutch to handle extra power

    [​IMG]

    New Gspec pullies, lightweight underdrive crank pulley and lightweight overdrive water pulley

    [​IMG]
     
  2. POC

    POC

    Messages:
    856
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Ireland
    Model:
    VZR
    Chassis:
    N15
    All bolted back together with old valve cover, have new cover but keeping it nice and shiny until engine is in car. Also took this great opportunity to remove the air con, unbelievable how heavy it is even the mounting bracket is heavy!

    [​IMG]


    ENGINE DONE!


    ENGINE BAY PAINTING

    Some of ye already know what colour I decided on, I wanted to keep it Nissan so went with a gunmetal grey from the silvia s15, name of the colour is actually ‘Pewter’.

    Decided to just spray the engine bay first and finish build before spraying the rest of the car, just to make sure the bodywork stays a1!
    Took a while to strip all the bits and then got out the steam cleaner and degreaser to make sure the paint had a nice clean base. All that was left was to tape off a few bits and give it light sand.

    Getting started

    [​IMG]

    All done

    [​IMG]

    Bonnet

    [​IMG]


    Started by dropping engine in and I over looked the engine mounts and did not realise that a few of them needed changing so engine got dropped in and just loosely tightened until I got new mounts.

    [​IMG]

    Started putting some bits back in around engine.....
    [​IMG]

    More than a few I suppose.....
    [​IMG]

    I needed 2 new mounts so instead of half doing things I got a full set of prothane engine mounts which took a few weeks to get in which slowed things down again.
    [​IMG]

    First time changing engine mounts and there a little fecker!
    Front one...
    [​IMG]

    Also a note that the mount on the sr20ve block was bigger to my N1 block so i had to swap these around, something that hadn’t showed up in my research. Differences between the 2, sr20 is on the left hand side.
    [​IMG]

    Eventually engine was finished being fitted but along way off being finished but wanted to get it started to make sure it ran! Started by changing oil, oil filter, new plugs, new leads, connect battery etc. and fit new freak manifold.
    The manifold is a freak 4-1 manifold with a 3” collector and was special order from America and what a piece of kit it is! Individual primaries which made it very easy fit....
    [​IMG]

    The collector is burn style so I’m told, which is the 4 primaries connect into the collector and are held in place by 4 springs pulling the primaries and collector together, this is supposed to be very popular in America.
    Manifold fitted... don’t mind the rough valve cover new one there for end of project!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    You can see the hooks on the primaries where the springs are to clip on
    [​IMG]

    Don’t have the collector and front pipe has i’ve sent it off too get a 3” cat back system made to match the front but here’s a small video of it started!!
    http://s208.photobucket.com/albums/...1/Engine in/?action=view&current=CIMG2125.flv


    ***********************************************
    NEW
    UPDATE 8/3/09
    ***********************************************


    Still waiting on my exhaust to be finished, custom means patience!!

    While waiting i started stripping car for paint, easy enough job....

    As im changing colour i needed to strip the doors and boot

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Removed the rub strips for a smoother finish

    [​IMG]

    Nismo front splitter, VZR skirts and VZR rear corners

    [​IMG]

    Trial fit of front splitter and cutting middle of bumper for oil cooler

    [​IMG]

    Removed rear wiper and boot lock, weight saving!!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Smoothed off front number plate recess

    [​IMG]

    End of day 1 prep, kit fitted and all dings and bits filled. Had to replace door as it was warped from someone trying to rob it. Lucky i had one lying round!
    Oil cooler is just sitting in place not too sure if i'll leave it there, opinions please!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Continue on page 3......
     
  3. Garnz

    Garnz

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Blackpool
    Model:
    GTI-R
    Chassis:
    RNN14
    Nice thread mate good luck with the rest of it.
     
  4. craiGTi

    craiGTi

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    Location:
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    yeah this looks like it'll be the sex! :D
     
  5. dannylatics

    dannylatics

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    Location:
    Oldham
    Model:
    GTi
    Chassis:
    1997
    very nice work mate
     
  6. Sam

    Sam Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    20,123
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    5,171
    Location:
    South West
    Model:
    VZR N1
    Chassis:
    N15
    will be awesome when its done, are you going to wiretuck at all?
     
  7. POC

    POC

    Messages:
    856
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    1
    Location:
    Ireland
    Model:
    VZR
    Chassis:
    N15
    Thanks, hope there not too much reading for ye!!

    wiretuck??
     
  8. yatesy.27

    yatesy.27

    Messages:
    556
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    Location:
    AUSTRALIA!
    Model:
    SLX Plus Sedan
    Chassis:
    1999 N15 Series 2
    wow, this has got my attention!

    Love to see where it goes. Please keep us updated. :)
     
  9. Sam

    Sam Moderator Staff Member

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    Location:
    South West
    Model:
    VZR N1
    Chassis:
    N15
  10. davidsr20

    davidsr20

    Messages:
    275
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    1
    Location:
    ireland
    Model:
    Vzr N1
    Chassis:
    n15
    Very nice project . how much was the sr20ve engine and did u get it shipped from japan?
     
  11. Rob-Gti

    Rob-Gti

    Messages:
    1,586
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    223
    Location:
    Derbyshire
    Model:
    Pulsar Autech Version
    Chassis:
    HN15
    Great project can't wait to see it finished. That was the only problem with the N1 it lacked torque. This should be one quick N/A motor !!
     
  12. rowdy-GTi

    rowdy-GTi Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Lichfield Staffs
    Model:
    GTi
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    Wow! good luck. Like to see 180-190whp.
     
  13. tommo

    tommo

    Messages:
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    93
    Location:
    stafford
    Model:
    Sport+
    Chassis:
    N16
    awesome! ill be watching this thread eagerly :)
     
  14. POC

    POC

    Messages:
    856
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Ireland
    Model:
    VZR
    Chassis:
    N15
    By doing this it'll sort out the torque issue, its the main reason im doing it.

    @Sam i'll be tidying them up alright but not to that extreme, well ya never know what ill do when i start putting it all back sure i might forget half it!! Battery staying where it is but getting a small lightweight one same as rowdy's

    @rowdy A lad in malaysia has this done exactly what i have except he has less extras and he made 215whp and 173lbs torque, using an emanage ultimate. He his sending me his dyno in a few days so will post it then. My aim is 200whp, would be great to get that.
     
  15. DBull

    DBull

    Messages:
    2,788
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    Location:
    Scotland
    Model:
    GTi
    Chassis:
    1997 N15 Almera
    Looking good bud, looking good.

    Can I ask why didn't you just use a 4 CW crank and rods from a regular rocker rocker Almera GTi engine.

    That's all you need,, plus bearings, to make your N1 engine a 2 litre capacity.
     
  16. POC

    POC

    Messages:
    856
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Ireland
    Model:
    VZR
    Chassis:
    N15
    Cheers,

    I know but the N1 pistons wouldnt suit so id need new pistons aswell, this way i didnt have to do anything with bottom end just bolt off head bolt on head. Also using the sr20ve with N1 head i get a cr of about 11.8:1

    I wrote above that people could do this.

    Now i didnt know that the 4cw crank came in the gti. Thought it was an 8cw
     
  17. CoV

    CoV

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Coventry
    Model:
    Esteem
    Chassis:
    N15
    wow easy big N/A power, be watchin this for updates :)

    when you talk about 4cw and 8cw is that referance to the counter weights on the crank?
     
  18. POC

    POC

    Messages:
    856
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    1
    Location:
    Ireland
    Model:
    VZR
    Chassis:
    N15
    Ya the N1 is just crying out for it!

    Ya one has 4 counter weights the other 8, and i think a difference in about 9lbs weight. Open to correction but i know theres a big diff.
     
  19. CoV

    CoV

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Coventry
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    Esteem
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    thats a lot of extra weight.

    do you know the theory of using 4 or 8?
     
  20. GTi kurt

    GTi kurt Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    6,466
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    Location:
    Chester, England
    Model:
    GTi
    Chassis:
    1999 N15
    8 is alot better for high RPM.

    Nice build, loving the split and stick method...saves racking any bottom end open.
     
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