1. Okay as some of you know I have decided to go ahead and turbo my Nissan Sunny 2.0 Gti.
A few years ago it was a standard SR20DE highport 143 bhp engine.
This was not enough for me after having many turbo'd cars in the past.
Anyway I imported an SR20VE engine fitted and mapped to 196bhp. Ran some 1/4miles, best I could do after stripping the car was 14.125. Oh well.
Now I wanted to sell the car but after spending a year collecting turbo parts and realising insurance only cost me £125 per year, due to classic insurance I decided to keep it and go ahead with the SR20VE turbo conversion.
So as its winter approaching I don't really drive the car during these months.
Have a large group rolling road day with the Gtir owners club in April 2014, so as long as the car is ready by then I'm happy.
Here goes, p.s I post on here as the banter is good and although it can get pointless and off track sometimes, you still help me out and I am sure you all mean well.
Planned spec
SR20VE engine
HKS F Con Pro Gold ECU Management
Subaru 440cc yellow injectors
Gtir walbro fuel pump
Gtir wrapped manifold
Gtir 3' turbo elbow
Gtir down pipe
Custom 3' Sunny Gti exhaust system from downpipe
Gtir turbo outlet pipe
Gtir induction pipe
Blitz induction kit, maf delete (map sensor)
Baileys dump valve
Gtir blue samco hoses
Gtir turbo braided turbo, oil, water lines
Tapped block for oil return
Gtir hybrid 360 thrust bearing turbo
Apex front mounted intercooler with custom pipework
Cusco front rear braces
D2 coilovers
10 pot tarox brakes
16' team dynamics pro racer wheels
LSD gearbox
Competition clutch and lightened flywheel
Full standard Sunny Gti interior
Gtir centre din boost, oil, temp gauge
Boost pressure 0.7 bar - 0.9 bar, depending on how mapping goes.
2. Then came the rad removal in preparation for tapping the block.
Removing neg battery port, get filter for laters oil change.
Jack car up and have covers ready in case it rains.
Draining water, unplug rad sump plug, remove rad. Sleep
With the rad out, test fit the intercooler. Will possibly need come cutting around the front sections of the car to fit.
With the car drained of water and rad out, I have access to the section on the block to tap for the next day.
3. Oil drain time, remove sump plug, drain. Then the bloody oil filter was hard to get off, so with your (aoc) help, a hammer, and swearing, off it came.
4. Once the oil was drained it was time to drill and tap the block, but the removal of the oil pan, upper pan, widget tray and loads of bolts was required. Dropped the exhaust and crossmember all the way out for better access.
Seal the barb well with rtv sealant which we used or ptfe tape which some recommend but we never used.
Make sure you clean the pans, take all the oil sealant off, clean the old oil off the pans and we soaked the nuts and bolts in white spirit.
Put back everything in the reverse order you took them off. But take your time in doing so, and make sure every bolt goes back in the same place.
Car off drive, back in garage, clean the oil off drive, and rest for the day.
5.
Next clutch change as current one is slipping
This whole job will be done on my drive with help from my neighbour who is a builder by trade and my other neighbours mechanic.
I have also learnt a lot during this process doing alot of it myself, just being guided, and will learn a lot more. I am an office guy you see, but now I am getting my hands dirty.
Enjoy..
A few years ago it was a standard SR20DE highport 143 bhp engine.
This was not enough for me after having many turbo'd cars in the past.
Anyway I imported an SR20VE engine fitted and mapped to 196bhp. Ran some 1/4miles, best I could do after stripping the car was 14.125. Oh well.
Now I wanted to sell the car but after spending a year collecting turbo parts and realising insurance only cost me £125 per year, due to classic insurance I decided to keep it and go ahead with the SR20VE turbo conversion.
So as its winter approaching I don't really drive the car during these months.
Have a large group rolling road day with the Gtir owners club in April 2014, so as long as the car is ready by then I'm happy.
Here goes, p.s I post on here as the banter is good and although it can get pointless and off track sometimes, you still help me out and I am sure you all mean well.
Planned spec
SR20VE engine
HKS F Con Pro Gold ECU Management
Subaru 440cc yellow injectors
Gtir walbro fuel pump
Gtir wrapped manifold
Gtir 3' turbo elbow
Gtir down pipe
Custom 3' Sunny Gti exhaust system from downpipe
Gtir turbo outlet pipe
Gtir induction pipe
Blitz induction kit, maf delete (map sensor)
Baileys dump valve
Gtir blue samco hoses
Gtir turbo braided turbo, oil, water lines
Tapped block for oil return
Gtir hybrid 360 thrust bearing turbo
Apex front mounted intercooler with custom pipework
Cusco front rear braces
D2 coilovers
10 pot tarox brakes
16' team dynamics pro racer wheels
LSD gearbox
Competition clutch and lightened flywheel
Full standard Sunny Gti interior
Gtir centre din boost, oil, temp gauge
Boost pressure 0.7 bar - 0.9 bar, depending on how mapping goes.
2. Then came the rad removal in preparation for tapping the block.
Removing neg battery port, get filter for laters oil change.
Jack car up and have covers ready in case it rains.
Draining water, unplug rad sump plug, remove rad. Sleep
With the rad out, test fit the intercooler. Will possibly need come cutting around the front sections of the car to fit.
With the car drained of water and rad out, I have access to the section on the block to tap for the next day.
3. Oil drain time, remove sump plug, drain. Then the bloody oil filter was hard to get off, so with your (aoc) help, a hammer, and swearing, off it came.
4. Once the oil was drained it was time to drill and tap the block, but the removal of the oil pan, upper pan, widget tray and loads of bolts was required. Dropped the exhaust and crossmember all the way out for better access.
Seal the barb well with rtv sealant which we used or ptfe tape which some recommend but we never used.
Make sure you clean the pans, take all the oil sealant off, clean the old oil off the pans and we soaked the nuts and bolts in white spirit.
Put back everything in the reverse order you took them off. But take your time in doing so, and make sure every bolt goes back in the same place.
Car off drive, back in garage, clean the oil off drive, and rest for the day.
5.
Next clutch change as current one is slipping
This whole job will be done on my drive with help from my neighbour who is a builder by trade and my other neighbours mechanic.
I have also learnt a lot during this process doing alot of it myself, just being guided, and will learn a lot more. I am an office guy you see, but now I am getting my hands dirty.
Enjoy..
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