hehe,,, no worries man,
I didnt take it as a dig (its my fault I was quick to jump when someone said PE rollers)
Raceworx
to be honest the dyno that PE Used to have back in the day I felt was inaccurate, Heavy Inertia Roller
The are HEAVY they smooth out the data graphs too much (so from a tuners perspective its difficult to pinpoint discrepencies you may have with any mapping issue) you Cannot STEADY STATE tune on them properly and the calculate HP on the run down (a little dab of the brake = high hp figure)
Also if one had to do an emergency stop on a inertia roller? well i dont wanna even tell you what Could happen (ouch!!)
I tend to only use dyno dynamics dynamometers these days, if I can help it, to test n tune all my Engines on as you will CLEARLY see from my website (self calibrating - used all over Aus an NZ and more and more in the UK since my good friend started bring them over) I use most over the UK and others in Germany and Holland when i tuning out there for Nissan folk
They are now seen as industry standard pieces of equipment to dyno test on and no SLIP so they are accurate, very much so, which is why a number of garages are buying them up as they are being left behind with old technology and YOU as a Customer with your car want it tested on decent accurate pieces of equipment
The only time ill use OTHER systems is simply if that company isnt equipped with a DD setup (company in Holland I tune at has a DynaPack Hub Dyno - also excellent equipment but I prefer the software on DD - perhaps because Im very used to it after 6 years of use)
I AVOID road tuning nowadays (as you SIMPLY cannot ignition timing accurately) and those that know me, know im a fussy fecker and I wont let the car out on the road unless im happy, if the establishment your using has excellent cooling and you now how to factor in parameters then in reality there is NO need to use the road (unless you doing some major top speed stuff - dynos limit is 160mph)
see here with this bike we Power Commanded up a while back - this was the first time id seen the dyno max out (turn your sound up, hehe)
http://fctuning.com/FCTUNING/MEDIA/Entries/2008/11/3_Tuning_the_Suzuki_GSXr.html
The main reason I stick to usually DD is simply because i myself can make back 2 back comparisons with an engine with similar or identicle spec (naturally engine is different) but the product is excellent in that is repeatable for the mods on that car
If there is massive change in power form one car to another with a similar spec then I can quickly identify the problem and try to solve the issue quickly
eg
I know a factory SR20DET with GT2871 86 housing (plus usual breathing n fueling mods) at around 1-5bar will see around 310-330whp (370-390hp) on a comfortable conservative tune, BUT if i do the next mans car and it only makes 280whp (340-350) then I know there is a problem someone along the line with either the state of tune or the engine itself
I also try to use the same 5 dynos regularly
I even took one car i did to all 4 dynos that I use around london (all DD) and there was a 3-7hp difference from one to the other (done as a test as I wanted to know for myself) and dyno dynamics confirm this
The reason for the differnce?? intake temp and ambient temp, fans etc (tyre pressures was also set to 45psi on all runs as specified by the manufacture)
Let me know if you want any dyno info, i got tons of it mate if it would help you, even just to learn about it yourself for you own peace of mind
and everyone was sticking the boot in, and tbh i never heard of a bad piece of work that was theres..
