Almera 1.4 engine cut-out

A

andrewl

Hello all

I'm new to forum and this is my first thread - hope you can help.

My Almera 1.4 Acton 1997, 90,000 miles, cut out recently on a short journey and would not start due to what seemed like a flat battery. Managed to tow car home and the following weekend started it by using jump leads. The engine ran for a minute or two and again cut-out. I removed the air flow meter and it looked ok and I changed the air filter but still cuts out after a minute or two.

Would anyone know the problem and how to fix?
 
Could still be the fuel by way of a worn gauge sensor, tap the tank underneath to see if it sounds empty, 1/4 tank it should be a dull thud, if empty it will sound very tinny. Or better still put a gallon in to rule out no petrol, its not wasted because u still going to need it. Had a very similar problem on my wife's car, turned out it was a sticking sensor at the 1/4 mark due to her only part filling the tank every time and over the years eventually wore a grove in the copper wire on the sensor at the 1/4 mark.
 
Make sure the Alternator is charging the battery. If the charge system fails then the engine will still run but only while the battery has enough juice to do so.

The fact it needs jump leads to start moves the fault away from the fuel system.
 
andrewl said:
My wife did the same thing - only putting in £10 at a time. I'll try the tap method firstly. Will let you know - thanks
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Tapped bottom of tank - sounded empty so managed to get 1 gall of fuel into tank. Jump lead startup but after less than one minute engine cut out. I did notice the engine diagnostic light flashing this time when engine running. Hope this info helps in diagnosis. Is the battery being flat connected with the problem?
 
andrewl said:
Tapped bottom of tank - sounded empty so managed to get 1 gall of fuel into tank. Jump lead startup but after less than one minute engine cut out. I did notice the engine diagnostic light flashing this time when engine running. Hope this info helps in diagnosis. Is the battery being flat connected with the problem?
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Just read the faulty alternator diagnosis - will have to check if a current is being produced.
 
yh now you have the fault warning its more on the electrical side, check the alternator for current and check the battery, how longs the battery been in the car?
cold weather and batteries dont mix and if the bat is coming to the end of its life maybe worth while to change the battery
 
Have just checked the alternator by connecting a multimeter to the battery. Connected jump leads to battery and meter showed 12.8V. Started engine and no increase in voltage - seems like a faulty alternator then.

Good diagnosis and many thanks to all.

Hope you all have a car trouble free new year.
 
tw33k said:
yh now you have the fault warning its more on the electrical side, check the alternator for current and check the battery, how longs the battery been in the car?
cold weather and batteries dont mix and if the bat is coming to the end of its life maybe worth while to change the battery
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Findings point to faulty alternator - would appreciate further comment or confirmation. Many thanks.
 
Have you tried jump starting it but leaving the leads on to see if it cuts out ? normally when your alternator is fried your battery light stays on when you start the car giving you an early heads up well before you break down. If you had jump leads connected when you did the multimeter test then it will be reading the voltage from the donor car, and since you said it didnt change when you revved your car it does suggest alternator. You could always charge your battery full then in the morning see if it runs till the battery drains down. Might sound stupid but did you notice if your alternator belt still there ?
 
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The alternator exists partly to charge the battery. The alternator may or may not produce enough voltage to charge the battery, even slightly, at low revs. This also depends on the state of charge of the battery. At higher engine revs, the output voltage of the alternator would be sufficient to forward bias the alternator diodes and much larger charging currents would flow. So it isn't true to say the alternator produces maximum power at low revs.

Is all i ment but without an essay :)
 
The voltage will be constant from the alternator regardless of rpm, current demand from it is entirely different though.
 
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