At what mileage will a timing chain wear out?
- Thread starter BigChris
- Start date
its not a mileage based thing, its supposed to last the life of the car.
doesnt mean it will, running it low on oil will stretch the chain fast apparently
another likely option is just the cam/crankshaft sensors.
THE FIRST thing to do is to scan the codes and se what that light means - check engine light is VERY vague.
code scanners can be bought for as cheap as 2.50£
if it is what you assumed (cam/crank code) check the timing chain tensioner - if its protruded more than 10mm - change chain and both sensors (120£ parts) the expensive part is the labour though, thats why im spending so much time learning here!
doesnt mean it will, running it low on oil will stretch the chain fast apparently
another likely option is just the cam/crankshaft sensors.
THE FIRST thing to do is to scan the codes and se what that light means - check engine light is VERY vague.
code scanners can be bought for as cheap as 2.50£
if it is what you assumed (cam/crank code) check the timing chain tensioner - if its protruded more than 10mm - change chain and both sensors (120£ parts) the expensive part is the labour though, thats why im spending so much time learning here!
I had the code read. It was the crank sensor code, so I'm assuming its the chain. At the time I got the fault cleared. I then set off on a long drive, when I hit the motoway and got up to speed I noticed the rev counter needle wobble and wavering, then the light came back on. So I still assume its the cam chain.
Intrestingly I noticed that as long as I stayed below 4000rpm the needle was fine. So I now drive carefully, keeping revs low, until I get the chain replaced, if at all.
Intrestingly I noticed that as long as I stayed below 4000rpm the needle was fine. So I now drive carefully, keeping revs low, until I get the chain replaced, if at all.
its not a mileage based thing, its supposed to last the life of the car.
doesnt mean it will, running it low on oil will stretch the chain fast apparently
another likely option is just the cam/crankshaft sensors.
THE FIRST thing to do is to scan the codes and se what that light means - check engine light is VERY vague.
code scanners can be bought for as cheap as 2.50£
if it is what you assumed (cam/crank code) check the timing chain tensioner - if its protruded more than 10mm - change chain and both sensors (120£ parts) the expensive part is the labour though, thats why im spending so much time learning here!
its a shame its not easier to change, its enough for a lot of ppl not to bother it seems.
but you still don't know exactly whats wrong with your car - you could be assuming its the chain when a couple of 20£ sensors could be to blame (notorious for going bad). either open it and check, or spend the money on the sensors - if they throw a code again you know the problem is deeper in - then the real spending starts
if you consider doing yourself it the closest help i found online is a timing chain vid for a 2003 Nissan Sentra SE-R by ETCG
(exact same problems - changed the chain but it threw codes again, he finally changes the sensors aswell)
but you still don't know exactly whats wrong with your car - you could be assuming its the chain when a couple of 20£ sensors could be to blame (notorious for going bad). either open it and check, or spend the money on the sensors - if they throw a code again you know the problem is deeper in - then the real spending starts
if you consider doing yourself it the closest help i found online is a timing chain vid for a 2003 Nissan Sentra SE-R by ETCG
(exact same problems - changed the chain but it threw codes again, he finally changes the sensors aswell)
I haven't got back round to it yet, but I've ran it a few times, the leak isn't major and for what the cars worth and how long I intend it to last, might not be all worth the effort unless I get the time to get back at it. It wont need stripping right back, just take the belt off anf undo the pulley to get at all the bolts for the housing.
The engine ran "fine" before I started the job, I think its just a combination of old things set in their ways don't like being moved around, although I had'nt stressed it at all, just one of those things. when I get the coilpack on it should be like "new" haha
it varies, tbh most mechanics near me arent bothered picking up jobs that are more than just replacing simple parts, service work etc but i was quoted 500£
i had a n15 1.4 and never had a single issue with it... now the n16 on the other hand.. f'''##ing tons of issues electrical and mechanical
I had 2 mechanics listen to the emgine, both said it was too quiet to be the timing chain, they suspect it to be the crank sensor, which is what the fault code says. Before invrsting time and money into fixing anything I put it through an MOT, which it passed with only £100 of welding required. I borrowed a dignostic tool which cleared the warning light before the MOT.
Lucky that cos I'm out of work, with no income and need the car to drive to job interviews. It could have been much more expensive
I noticed that the warning light comes on when I get to 4000rpm, so as long as I stay below 4000rpm theres no warning light. I'm driving slowly and gently until I get the time and funds to fix it
So, a new crank sensor is £20 on ebay, just need to now investigate how to swap that over, see whether I can do that with limited access to repair facilities
Lucky that cos I'm out of work, with no income and need the car to drive to job interviews. It could have been much more expensive
I noticed that the warning light comes on when I get to 4000rpm, so as long as I stay below 4000rpm theres no warning light. I'm driving slowly and gently until I get the time and funds to fix it
So, a new crank sensor is £20 on ebay, just need to now investigate how to swap that over, see whether I can do that with limited access to repair facilities
cool, if uk mot works like irish nct then engine warning light doesnt influence the road safety of the car (could be many hundreds of possible issues, they cant fail you on that), if it was an airbag light/ABS brake light on the other hand -- failed.
sorry but no noise from the chain doesnt mean its ok, i know its an old way of checking, but not for this car for some reason. (the timing might be off enough to fuck with rpms, MPG etc, but not slack enough so its slapping around under the rocker cover.
the way to diagnose it has been mentioned earlier in this thread - check the chain "tensioner position"
sensors might be cheap on ebay, but they can be a right bitch to change (gaskets hold em in real tight u risk breaking the plastic on removal be careful)
crank sensor is under the engine i believe, cam sensor is easy to see near spark plugs