N16 1.5 starting and running problem

[bathtub tom]

This morning I returned home from a 100 mile motorway journey. The last couple of miles were through town at 30 MPH. Stopped at a supermarket for SWMBO to collect groceries (say half-an-hour). The car was very reluctant to start and only did so when full throttle was applied and it was seriously down on power and wouldn't rev. It ticks over fine and doesn't misfire.

This is new territory for me. I suspect the problem's to do with heat soak, although I've never had any problems with the car.

I've had it eight years and it's now done 48K. I serviced it 4K ago (oil, filter, plugs and air filter) and not done anything since other than to occasionally check the oil (it doesn't use any). I last filled with petrol 200 miles ago and it's over half full.

I've no EML on, although it comes on with ignition and goes out when it (eventually ) runs. I suspect that means there's no codes stored?

Would a dodgy MAF throw up a code? TPS or stepper motor?

I'm also thinking fuel filter or even tank breather.

I thought I'd work through the following:

1. Remove petrol filler and replace to see if it's caused by a vacuum.
2. Remove air filter and check nothing's blocking the inlet.
3. Unplug MAF to see if it runs any differently.
4. Check TPS and stepper motor - can anyone tell me how please?

Anything else anyone can suggest?

I hope it's not the well publicised timing chain problem that afflicts these. I understand that produces an EML.



Update.

The EML's now on.

Not a fuel tank vacuum - don't know about the fuel filter.

Air filter and inlet look as clean as the day I fitted them.

Will barely run at all with the MAF unplugged.

I can see the inlet butterfly opening and closing when someone tries to start it.

I guess I need to get a code reader.

 

[chunky]

Timing chain has stretched

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[bathtub tom]

Timing chain has stretched

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I'm waiting for a code reader to arrive to confirm it's the timing chain.

I've got hold of a Haynes. Is the procedure of locking the inlet valve cam necessary? I haven't a compressor.

 

[bathtub tom]

I'm waiting for a code reader to arrive to confirm it's the timing chain.

I've got hold of a Haynes. Is the procedure of locking the inlet valve cam necessary? I haven't a compressor.

 

[bathtub tom]

Just got hold of a code reader and it comes up with P0335 - crankshaft position sensor, so I guess it looks like the camchain, bugrit.

I'm really peed off, particularly with its service regimen.

Looks like a Toyota next!

 

[edk]

Yeah they really messed up the design of that chain in this engine :/

 

[bathtub tom]

What a relief, it turned out to be the crankshaft position sensor.

I thought I'd check out the sensors before I started pulling the engine apart (that bottom one's a pig) and I'm glad I did. The crank sensor tested open circuit on a meter, so I swapped them over and got a cam position sensor code.

Cosy me forty quid for a new sensor, but now it's running sweet.

I wonder if many others have been mis-diagnosed?

 

[bnicholls92]

Have you taken the rocker cover off to check the timing chain tension?

 

[edk]

I wonder if many others have been mis-diagnosed?

This has happened before, I just assumed you'd checked the sensors already! Sorry

 

[bathtub tom]

This has happened before, I just assumed you'd checked the sensors already! Sorry

Apology not necessary. I too had assumed that any error code associated with the cam and crank sensors would point to a stretched chain as it's such a common problem. I'm just glad I waited until I got the code reader before I started any serious dismantling.

I wasn't relishing the job. I did a K11 Micra timing chains years ago and that nearly finished me then.

 

[Geoffb]

Have you taken the rocker cover off to check the timing chain tension?

Hi Folks,
I recently cured the P0335 fault code on my 2003 N16 Almera and I would like to share my experience as my P0335 was nothing to do with the crankcase sensor or timing chain. My OBD software also said this fault code could also be due to an ignition problem or misfire and, given the engine felt like it was only running on 3 cylinder (loss of power) when the code appeared, this was the first place I looked. Oh,I forgot to mention the fault only appeared after a long run when the engine got hot. Also leaving to engin time to cool down cleared to fault (but the MIL light was still on). To cut a very long story short, when the fault appeared at home I put an oscilloscope (with a suitable inductive loop of wire next to each of the plug coil to see if I could detect which coil was not firing and sure enough cylinder one coil was not firing ( I believe the coil was breaking down when hot). Another way could be to pull each plug in turn to see which one did not change engine idle. After a quick visit to my local scrap man I fitted a replacement coil (£3.50), reset the MIL and she runs like a dream again.
Regards
Geoff