well firstly your gonna need to seperate sectors of base primer
Your gonna need a plastic primer for your bumpers
and a base/celly/2k primer - dependant on body work - poss polyester dependant on what work your doing
plastic/base primer use a standard base thinners 50/50 - 60/40
celly uses celly thinners (obviously) 50/50 - 60/40
2k needs its own hardner aswell as thinners 50primer/50 hardner / 10% thinners
polyester is harder to use - poly/thinners with activator
once all that is done and that IS th emost important - as this is the keying - taking that u have sanded down eetc - fdont go straight ontop of old paint
once thats smooooooooooth etc - perfect
then its the paint!
any metallic will be base as it needs laquering
if its a block colour you can get away with 2k - but id only do black and white in 2k paint
any other colour use base paint -
base paint 50/50 with thinners - 60/40 if your wanting a thick 1st coat to check angles/dents etc - then use 50/50 top coats - 3 coats of each
you can fine sand the first 2 coats and then the third basically just dust on so it just covers the score marks
then u can go to the laquer
2k laquer - 50/50 - 10% thinners
once the paint has settled and is solid bout an hour of drying - dont touch the paint just let it dry
DONT mix laquer till ur gonna use it -
then knock up the pressure on the compressor slightly - and give the full car a dusting so that u can see a shimmer on all the paint
(depending on gun - gravity/canister etc) find gravity alot better for laquer gives more an even surface
spray nozzle to spray verticle
start from top and go down - starting over the top of the item and then moving down
using bombing technique (spray across - take hand of so it stopsthe start again under neath rather than constant pressure as u will find u double up at the ends causing runs
overlapping the last line across by half should get an even surface (practice makes perfect)
DONT worry if it doesnt look even spread - worst thing u can do is try make it even (itll run)
leve to set about 15/20 mins and a nice constant room temperature - obviously bit warmer helps the process) 1st cot should be tacky- go for it again (kinda works out that if u mix a tub at a tiume to fill your gun, by the tiome u finished the car and then mixed a new batch - its time to start the first bit again - so ur constantly working)
again following the same process
leave the laquer to dry after the last coat for 48/72 hours to fully harden
1200 w/d paper WET very weet
then once u dont eh lot -
FAIRLY liqued on 1200 and go over it again- fairy stops it cutting as much again giving smoother finish
once compolete car done
flannel whole car down
keep car wet
G3 all over - prefered with a buffer keeping car wet as to not scorch the paint. keep the buffer away from edges and do these by hand
HOPE THIS HELPS
good luck it takes time to get better and better results
wayne
QDdevelopments
experience means more than anything, on a budget i can understand people having a go themselves and if i had the balls i would do mine myself instead of wasting money but on a car worth as much as yours you must be insane.
