Wear and tear survey: N16 platform

A

alfantastic

I'm trying to get a general idea of how long key components might last in an N16 Almera before requiring replacement. Feedback of a positive nature is the name of the game here. No, how long is a piece of string answers please.
To get the ball rolling, i've just had both steering track rod ends replaced (RHS leaking grease) on my 2003 2.2 DCi (136) at 60,000 miles. It's a heavy car up front, so maybe that's why they went so quick. Both rear calipers were sticking from 30,000 miles onwards, so they were replaced too. Isn't this common for Nissans in general??? Only other things that broke early was the starter motor at around 10,000 miles, but i reckon that was an isolated case as they are normally pretty reliable components. Also the melting headlights syndrome got fixed under warranty at 20,000 miles.
Fire away.......
 
I think there's a common faults section somewhere...

Rear calipers stick
Front crossmember rusts
Rear beam rusts
Timing chain (pre 2002) is like jelly
 
IIRC 1.5 gearbox on the phase 1 has a habit of going wrong at about 80k due to the oil filler hole being too low. Tallpaul had that problem, couple of others too I think.
 
Oh, i forgot to put in my first post that the remote key fob i have tends to wear out pretty quick. It's the half moon 2 rubber button type. Either the outer rubber has perished or the internal switches don't click any more causing frustration on more than one occasion. Think it might be something to do with the diesel on my hands after filling up attacking the rubber!
 
StevenC:

I'd no sign of my 110,000 mile 2001 phase 1 before she went to the scrappy in the sky, although they don't salt the roads here in Ireland (well they rarely do) Timing chain did need to be replaced at around 90k though :thumb:

Alfantastic; definately. I had to replace both of my fobs (1 broken when I got the car & the other went a couple of months later)
 
Forgot to mention rust - N16s seem to rely on paint to keep the rust at bay - once the paint is broken they go brown pretty quick so it's worth cleaning and touching-up as soon as you see a deep chip rather then wait weeks to get it done properly.

Also crossmember is prone to rust so a good dollop of rustproofing down there sooner rather than later is a good move.
 
hmm well lets start her Phase 2 N16 SE 3 door.
Front Cross member rusting (not bad but slowly rusting I might treat it or get a new one)

I think might my front cross member is rusting rather quick because of the splitter, there is 2 holes on the splitter that causes stone chips on the cross member causing it to rust

Gearbox got replaced at 25000miles under warrenty
head lights were changed as normal due to recall
centre console light playing up (fixed it myself with a screw driver)

Driver side window just smashed (we do not know the cause of it lol)

driver shaft cv booth leaking was easily fixed

and thats about it.
 
What's the best way to deal with a rusty front member :eek: .... on the car perverts.
Is that Waxoyl stuff any good? I've sort of kept mine at bay with a monthly spray of WD40, but wanna do a more permanent job.
 
I'd of thought a rub down with light sandpaper, a good layer of anti-rust primer, then a Hammerite type paint on top would do it. But I'm not a bodyshop expert, so no doubt the guys who are will post a more professional reply. :) I'm sure waxoil would help seal it all up.
 
mine has 75k im not sure what has been replaced before 65k

timing chain
crank pos sensors
bracket that holds on aircon pump
front caliper
centre console bin lid hinge

I still have to get the rear windscreen heater and cig lighter fixed. Im also having problems with the thin layer of black plastic that is just beside the drivers window, it has a crease in it, is cracking and peeling away
 
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