Battery Relocation

It doesnt matter at all. All you have to do is use small lengh of earth wire in the boot to ground it amdn a small wire to earth the engine to the chassis. Job done. No point running the negative cable all the way from the boot back to the engine :confused:
 
You'll probably require something like OOO or OOOO AWG. Big fat cable.

The current drawn can range from roughly 80-200a under normal use and upto 400a under cranking conditions.
 
Dale said:
You'll probably require something like OOO or OOOO AWG. Big fat cable.

The current drawn can range from roughly 80-200a under normal use and upto 400a under cranking conditions.
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not 100% sure if your right because the main fused box uses a 70 amp fuse. I am guessing 4AWG will do the job I say this because the standard ground cable is no thicker then 4AWG and grounding is as important as the positive. The cable is used to charge the battery and start the engine.
 
you could run a split charge, keep the stock car batt under the bonnet and get a heavy duty fast power delivery such as a ultima yellowtop and put it in the boot.

if you havent joined TalkAudio forums i suggest you do if you are big into your car audio. im on there and there is some very good adivce to be had
 
hardc0re_tid said:
you could run a split charge, keep the stock car batt under the bonnet and get a heavy duty fast power delivery such as a ultima yellowtop and put it in the boot.

if you havent joined TalkAudio forums i suggest you do if you are big into your car audio. im on there and there is some very good adivce to be had
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I sorted this out ages ago. I relocated my battery in the boot and used 0AWG wire with a 120amp fuse 1 in the front 1 in the back and grounded it in the back. I am also running a 2nd battery (Stinger SP1700) with a split charge kit.

the reason I put the battery in the boot is that I am thinking of a SR20DET conversion and I need to move it in the boot if I do the conversion anyway so I might as well do it now
 
Why dont you just use the same size cable as teh original, your hardly going to get a voltage drop problem along a 2 metre distance...
 
CoV said:
Why dont you just use the same size cable as teh original, your hardly going to get a voltage drop problem along a 2 metre distance...
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voltage drop was not a problem my main consern was that I used 5meters of the stuff. I had 4awg that supports upto 80 amp I blown the fuse several times so I changed it to 0AWG. the alternater fused is fused at 100amps. I used 100amps and it still blown so I used 0awg wire and put a 120amp fuse in and its worked fine ever since.
 
sounds like your doing something very wrong if youve had to up the main fuse from 70 to 120amp! :eek:

there are different wire gauges i think, check your getting the right measurement. plus how did you know what size the standard cable is? cross sectional area is determined by the size of one core x the number of cores.
 
CoV said:
sounds like your doing something very wrong if youve had to up the main fuse from 70 to 120amp! :eek:

there are different wire gauges i think, check your getting the right measurement. plus how did you know what size the standard cable is? cross sectional area is determined by the size of one core x the number of cores.
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I had to up the fuse from 80 to 120. I was scared of putting in 100amp into the 4awg wiring as 4awg is only meant to support up to 60amp. I put 0awg wire in and put a 120amp fuse in and 0awg supports up to 150amps. The alternater fuse is fused at 100.

I ran 0awg wire recently in my mates S14a and the 100amp fuse blown we never had 120's other wise I would of used 120 amp fuses. he has the same alternater fuse as me

Just to say Nissan in Birmingham are a complete joke because they do not sell 100amp fuses for the alternater for an N16. I went to most scrap yards in Bimringham they do not have any.
 
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