Braking Question?

Std Nissan pads don't like the EBC grooved/dimpled disks. They are ok on light / medium braking but when you are going for it they feel shit and sound awful. As has been said (soooooo many times and mainly by Ian ;) ), std disks and red/yellow stuff with 5.1 and stainless flexies.

NB - In my experience red's don't last, eat your disks and make a lot of dust but brake very well. Yellows work just as well (when up to temp), don't eat your disks and make a lot less dust.
 
Ok got my Yellowstuff pads and discs through post today ready for fitting tomorrow woo hoo!! :D

Weird thing is the discs I bought from buypartsbuy, yet they were sent from Sutton Auto Factors, which is a motor factors right near me (and Bulwell/Mapperley Nottingham). I got a quote from SAF for I think it was £34 plus VAT (£39.95 total) for the Discs each. Yet from Buypartsbuy it was £53.25 delivered to my door? Yet they're from the same place. :confused:
 
CoV said:
would like to know how the yellowstuff setup works as im doing this myself :)

Will let ya know how they are mate, they'll be fitted in morning. :D

I was happy with Green Stuff but they seemt to make a funny droning noise when they got really hot from excessive braking so I know I need a bit more bite.

Yellowstuff from Demon Tweeks pal, Sunny N14 GTiR.
 
Don't some pads have extra bits added that deliberately cause a squeeking effect when they are about worn down so you notice and replace them?
Sure I read that somewhere but I've never let my pads get worn down enough to find out.
 
yeah the minimum level indicator, basically as the pad wears down this metal tag touches the discs, trust me 100% when i say yourll know if it is this indicator touching the disc, very harsh metal on metal scraping sound, it even makes listen appearances when just driving along from the bumps.

thanks slapster, ive got standard pads and they heat up far too quickly for my liking, heard green stuff dont lat five minutes, red stuff are frequently highly rated on here, but i read the spec on the yellowstuff are better from cold than red and htye last longer, so bonus.

Do these EBC, green, red and yellowstuff pads need bedding in the same as OE pads or is there a different procedure due to the different materials?
 
wraith0x29a said:
Don't some pads have extra bits added that deliberately cause a squeeking effect when they are about worn down so you notice and replace them?
Sure I read that somewhere but I've never let my pads get worn down enough to find out.

Yes they do mate i've just read on the EBC yellowstuff box that some asian fitment brakes have an audible wear indicator called 'screech clips'. They are a u-shaped clip rivetted to one side of the brake pad backing plate that contacts the rotor when the pad is worn dangerously low, and need changing.

I never knew that, something new!
 
CoV said:
yeah the minimum level indicator, basically as the pad wears down this metal tag touches the discs, trust me 100% when i say yourll know if it is this indicator touching the disc, very harsh metal on metal scraping sound, it even makes listen appearances when just driving along from the bumps.

thanks slapster, ive got standard pads and they heat up far too quickly for my liking, heard green stuff dont lat five minutes, red stuff are frequently highly rated on here, but i read the spec on the yellowstuff are better from cold than red and htye last longer, so bonus.

Do these EBC, green, red and yellowstuff pads need bedding in the same as OE pads or is there a different procedure due to the different materials?

It says on this yellowstuff box mate that you should bed them in for minimum of 100 miles until optimum braking is observed.

Yeah i've heard Redstuff is good too but far too much dust and they don't last long at all but i've never used them to be sure mate, i've only ever had greenstuff until now.
 
Slapster said:
Yeah i've heard Redstuff is good too but far too much dust and they don't last long at all but i've never used them to be sure mate, i've only ever had greenstuff until now.
agreed, i found them bad on dust and quick wearing but they were good
 
almeratastic said:
Std Nissan pads don't like the EBC grooved/dimpled disks. They are ok on light / medium braking but when you are going for it they feel shit and sound awful. As has been said (soooooo many times and mainly by Ian ;) ), std disks and red/yellow stuff with 5.1 and stainless flexies.

Grooved/dimpled is all a big con anyway. Dimples just crack and the groves eat your pads. Pad material is so much better these days that sandard discs work just fine.
 
Slapster said:
'screech clips'. They are a u-shaped clip rivetted to one side of the brake pad backing plate

That's what that was! I wondered why the hell there was a big bit of metal sticking off the back of the pad! :O
 
rowdy-GTi said:
Grooved/dimpled is all a big con anyway. Dimples just crack and the groves eat your pads. Pad material is so much better these days that sandard discs works just fine.

agreed, once mine are fully worn I'm back on std disks. Might even go for the hispec big disk upgrade to 280mm that they do for GTiR's
 
Yellowstuff pads and new discs all fitted. They feel great although I can't brake heavy till i've done 100 miles (couple of days) so i'll see what they're like under heavy load :D
 
Slapster, what's the what on your yellowstuf pads now you've done the miles to wear them in?
 
Wow I ain't been on here in ages and this thread got dug up from last year hahaha!!

I'd highly recommend yellowstuff to anyone, with standard discs. The braking is fantastic and they have lasted ages. There's still loads of life left in them and i've done a fair few thousand miles on them.

The best pads i've ever used deffo.
 
Agreed. I`ve had my front yellow-stuff ages and done about 4 track days on em....they`re still doing fine. I use red-stuff on the back.

Having got through 2 sets of goodridge hoses on the front i gave up and reverted back to OE. The casing appeared to melt and the braiding rusted. I think they may have catching on the Daiyamas though......thing is its hard to see whats happening when the car dropped and not jacked up.
 
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