Inherited my Red/Pink N16, my new daily

R10tz0r

R10tz0r

Hi guys, I recently inherited my dads old Red/Pink N16, it's my second Japanese car (though its british built :D)

I also currently own a VW Polo 16v which is my little toy and why I decided to get this as a run around so I concentrate my fun efforts on that, and my family efforts on this :D

it has a few issues which I am hoping you guys can help with but I am looking forward to having a nice beater :D

shes an Early QG15DE with an actual throttle cable, which helps when under the bonnet!

Thanks :)
 
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there she is alongside the polo, currently investigating a idling issue, it will start cold fine, but tends to choke itself when revved or when the engine is warmed up?

checking the chain tensioner tommorow as the chain seems to be a common problem on these, but hoping it wont be that as I dont really like the idea of replacing the chain, its a big job!
 
so popped the valve cover off today, and had a look at the tensioner, news isn't good

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good news though is that the engines healthy otherwise :)

do I have to drop the sump when I change the chain?
 
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Yes the sump need to come off to allow for the lower section of the cam chain cover to be removed from the block.
 
so I bit the bullet and stripped the engine readyfor a new chain, couldnt find any info easily accesible online so thought I'd do a little video series documenting it, the first part can be found here:


Thanks!
 
struggling with this now!

sorted the coilpack and she runs absolutely lovely, unbelievably smooth and free revving.

but as soon as the engine starts to warm up the revs slowly decay to the point where it stalls itself.

the idle adjuster opens up as much as it can to keep a steady idle but once it reaches its maximum it cuts out, I can keep it alive by holding the rev's manually and it will run all day, but as soon as I let go of the throttle it will just cut out.

alternatively, if I put some load on the engine with the air blower it will just about keep it alive.

I'm not convinced it's an air/vacuum leak because that would cause the engine to bog even more under load wouldnt it?

anyone any ideas?
 
Right at my wits end now

Checked for Vacuum Leaks
Throttle Body cleaned
IACV stripped, cleaned and reassembled (spring was loose inside)
IACV connector checked
Cam sensor checked
MAF checked
o2 Sensor checked

No OBD codes present using cheapy code reader

can not however get the car in Diagnostic Mode II using the pedal method (up down five times), to my knowledge all prerequisites are met.

I can manually overide the problem by opening the throttle slightly but it still dips the rev's once a minute or so.

everything I read points to the leaks or IACV being faulty and they all suggest Idle Air Learning, but I cant activate that mode so stuck really!

FOr reference, it is a really early QG15DE engine, the TPS has two connectors, IACV has one connector and the Throttle cable has a vacuum operated "start helper" which I am currently using to help keep the idle up

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please please please help!
 
i fell bad for you my friend, wish i could help.
seems it had the same problem even before the chain was changed?
at least you know the chain is sorted, and its not related to that.
mine needs a chain kit as well, but it idles just fine and never cuts out.

it looks like something youve already tried to clean/fix
http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm...ct_id=289/category_id=13/mode=prod/prd289.htm

http://www.micra.com.au/technical-articles/cg13de-throttle-body-resoldering-guide.pdf

hope you find something
 
I have a similar problem with my N16 motor… I checked the six pin IACV connector, on pin 1 & 4 I’m getting 5v and pin 2& 5 I get battery voltage when the ignition is on, however on pins 3&6 there’s no voltage. Meaning there’s no signal generated from the ECU, wanna do more tests when I get the time though
 
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