My 2.2 Di N16 2001
- Thread starter faior
- Start date
Its simple with the 112HP version, because it has GT1549-turbocharger without VNT, so I just fooled the wastegate with this kind of controller:
But if you plan to change the 100kW DCIs boost pressure, you need to take the boostvalvesensor off from the compressorpipe, before the intake manifold, and put the controller in to that hose.
You need this kind of controller for that:
And heres 2 images of the boostsensor, which I talked about earlier
The MBC(manual boost controller) goes in between the sensor and intakepipe. This is tested by me and it works lawlessly and removes boost spikes.
edit. Heres the sensor in your engine bay
IF you didnt already know
Edit2. And you can use the controller mentioned in the first picture, but its not so efficient since it bleeds the boost to the atmosphere and lies the amount of pressure to the sensor(as does the better controller too, but it doesnt waste the boost at all and its quicker).
But if you plan to change the 100kW DCIs boost pressure, you need to take the boostvalvesensor off from the compressorpipe, before the intake manifold, and put the controller in to that hose.
You need this kind of controller for that:
And heres 2 images of the boostsensor, which I talked about earlier
The MBC(manual boost controller) goes in between the sensor and intakepipe. This is tested by me and it works lawlessly and removes boost spikes.
edit. Heres the sensor in your engine bay
IF you didnt already know
Edit2. And you can use the controller mentioned in the first picture, but its not so efficient since it bleeds the boost to the atmosphere and lies the amount of pressure to the sensor(as does the better controller too, but it doesnt waste the boost at all and its quicker).
Thanks faior
I'll have to take the sensor off tomorrow and have a look to try and understand where it all goes.
Ah yes, good question, I forgot to explain that.
So you take the electronic-sensor off from the intake pipe and you have to drill a screw threads in to the hole and put a little adaptor there to accept the little hose. The sensor-end accepts a little hose to its head without doing anything to it. Its the same size of hose what usually comes with the boost gauges.(cant remember the correct size).
I used this kind of adaptor, its not the best, but you should figure it out what I mean
The sensor just changes the mechanical movement(pressure in this case) to electronical so the ECU can adjust the VNT-vanes with vacuum to adjust the actual boost.
When you only allow the sensor to see the boost after like 1.5bars, the vanes starts to move after that point, which then stops the boost raising anymore. Before that the vanes stays closed, because it thinks theres no boost. This causes very fast boost raising and without spikes.
edit2. heres a picture of the whole thing, how it should go. In the picture the hose goes a bit different place in the intake pipe, just to make it simple, in reality you do the screw threads in the original hole where the sensor is located.
shaggy_master
brapp brapp!
Wow, Great info there, Should even be made into a HowTo?
MOAR Boost Ed!
Joe
MOAR Boost Ed!
Joe
I like how a Finn has been teaching Ed, though that was 7 years ago, as far as i know that silver Almera has changed it's owner once or twice after faior sold it, the double spoiler on the tailgate is what catched my attention originally, rather weird to see Ed praising someone's car out of the blue though.
how
First for starters hello all! My first post, though Ive registered a lot earlier.
And second.. the pics and some bodywork info
- Painted side lists to body colour
- TDI marker
- Some crappy 16" alloys with 205/50 tires
- Front fog lights
And because of the winter Ive installed to the front high beams, theyr very useful because of dark nights and my work. At the summer time I dont have them, surprisely.
- Tinted backlights
- Back spoiler(not factory installed)
- TURBO-marker
Then the technical part
Something like that for the starters
- ECU reprogrammed(120-130HP and 280-290Nm, tuning specs)
- 450x300x76mm front intercooler with 2,5" piping
- Boost raised from 1.0bar to 1.6bar
- EGR completely removed
- K&N High flow airfilter
- Inside the cabin temperature readings for turbo to cooler and cooler to engine.
- Boost and Volt gauges
And about month ago I installed another "chip", which is just the TuningBox thingy, raised the max boost pressure from 1.6 to 1.9bars, so it definitely gives more juice, I think more than the ECU programmed chip, although not so neat and accurate than the programmed one. Now theres a Huge turbokick with the box(altough I like it).
And all who doubt the engine cant handle.. I can tell, it CAN. Runned for a year with the first chip and mods with no problems, and after that a year with 1.8-2.0bar turbo pressure without the cooler. I have original clutch and transmission and engine, runned almost 300000 kilometers now, all I can say.. very tough engine.
But, Ive started to look for newer almera.. something like 2005 2.2 DCI with Nissans own engine ofcourse and 100kW.
and yes.. Im from Finland so sorry for bad english..
And the last picture.. which is a bit old.
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