N15 SRI Strut Braces

shaggy_master

brapp brapp!
Hey, Basically I've got a an SRI, and I've purchased a set of front/rear strut braces from a GTI, and I've came across a few problems.
Firstly, the Front Strut Brace Fits perfectly, but on the GTI, the stud from the shock that is closest to the centre of the car is longer than the one one on my SRI, so basically the inside stud on mine is not long enough to reach all the way through the thickness of the strut brace, so the shocks both sides are only held on by 2 Nuts opposed to 3.
I have came up with a few possible solutions to this,

1. Remove the shock and drill the inside stud out and replace with a nut and bolt that is long enough to reach through the strut brace.

2. Leave it how it is.

What do you think??
I am thinking maybe I should just buy GTI shocks.. But until then, what should I do?
Will it be ok with 2 fixings opposed to 3?


Now for the Rear Strut Brace.

On the GTI I removed the brace from, there was threads in the holes it was mounted in, my SRI does not have threads in these holes, so what are my options as to fitting the Rear Strut Brace?
I can't get a nut and bolt through, and the metal itself is too thin and weak to hold a thread.

Any suggestions much appreciated :)

Thanks, Joe
 
Correct, the GTi front shocks are designed to take strut braces. i had replaced my suspension with GTi ones, Tommo and Alan used a hacksaw on the offending part of the strut brace so now it sits flush as it should do, and is held on by the outermost 2 bolts.
 
Yep for the front, just chop that inner bit off, takes 5 mins. It then sits on top of the inner nut.
For the rear, find some nuts that will fit the rear brace bolts. Should be metric-fine, not sure on the size though. They fitted a 17mm spanner though. What I did was put the nut in a ratchet spanner and masking tape it into it. Then feed the spanner up inside the thin box section (remove the grey chassis stiffening plates and you'll see where I mean) and screw the bolt into it.
Basically you're avoiding having to tap threads and just using a nut and bolt. This worked fine for me on my old 5dr SRi. My 3dr SRi had threads already or rather, nuts tacked on behind (not sure if this is consistent on all 3dr shells).
 
IIRC Sprint's Si had the holes and threads.... strange.. maybe some shells were just on the GTi production line before being completed.
 
on the front ones i grinded out the welds around the boss the wacked it out with a hammer once i painted it up looked quite nice n tidy
 
Basically this is how I answered this question last time.... As Alan mentioned you can fit a spanner up the holes if you want which saves Steps 8 & 9..

or if you're good enough you could put the bolt through the other way...


Executive Summary

This is for the lucky ducks who have got themselves a rear brace for their N15. The issue is that the JN15 came with captive nuts in the mounting holes. This meant you can just screw a bolt into the holes without any issues. Our problem is that they are not present on the Australian delivered chassis.

This tech article should apply to all VZR, GTi and Cusco Rear Braces

Technically, it's not a strut brace as it mounts above the struts but we'll just call it a strut brace for the time being

----------------------------------------------------------------​

SO.. People in the past have drilled right through the pillar in order to mount strut braces. The issue here is that there is a slight angle on the pillar and spring washers are needed to make the brace secure without it coming loose all the time. It also tends to crush the pillar a bit if it is too tight.

Blitz (I think) came up with an idea to sit some bolts with a lip in the hole and weld it on. Works quite well but requires welding.

This solution hit me one night late when I was probably drunk and should have been thinking about gambling and girls. It allows the car to remain untouched and completely reversible which is what I like. :D

----------------------------------------------------------------​

Ingredients

One Rear Brace
2 Pieces of string (50cm or so)
4 High tensile Bolts (8-10mm diameter) (small enough to fit through the holes)
At least 6 High tensile Nuts (to fit bolts)
8 Washers to fit bolts
Patience
Socket set to remove bash plates
2 Spanners to tighten bolts
A flat metal piece with two holes in it to act as support (optional)


----------------------------------------------------------------​

Step 1: Remove the Rear Seats

You can fold the bottom half forward to give yourself more room
There are two bolts on each side near the doors and two bolts in the middle where the two halves join.
Take the seats out to give you full access to the bash plates.


Step 2: Remove Bash Plates

There are hundreds of little bolts to remove. It takes about 10 mins but its the only way. You need to unhook the boot wall linings from its clips to give you access to it all and take out the boot carpet


You should now see something like this:
Area.jpg


The Mounting Holes are at the top of that area here:
MountingHoles.jpg


This is my MS Paint version so you can understand the following diagrams:
Step1.jpg


Step 3:

Feed some string with some weight on it down through the mounting holes. You will need a piece of string through each hole. You may be best off tying the string off so it doesnt all fall through.

Step2.jpg


Step 4:
Feed the washers and bolts through the metal plate and tie the string to the very tip of the bolts. A clove hitch knot works best here. (For those who were Scouts)

Step3.jpg


[The metal plate is optional as the pressure is then spread across the pillar as opposed to on the individual holes. I imagine the pillar to be strong enough but I though this may be a better way to distribute the force]


Step 5:

Pull the string from the top so that the bolts are lifted and sit through the mounting holes.

Step4.jpg


Hard part done!


Step 6:

Remove string. Don't lose the bolts back through the holes. :(

Step5.jpg



Step 7:

Place the strut brace over the bolts being careful not to knock them back into their holes.
Add the washers and nuts as quick as possible to make sure they stay there.
Tighten as much as possible by hand.

Step6.jpg



Step 8:
Add two more nuts onto the end of the bolt. (Thanks CoZZm0 for the idea)
Lock these nuts together so that they do not move.
Use a spanner to hold these two nuts together and stop the bolt from turning.
Use another spanner to tighen the nut holding on the strut brace.
When you are happy with the torque you can do it for the other bolt.

Step7.jpg


Step 9:
Take end nuts off and repeat Steps 3-8 for the other side.


Step 10:
Replace all the bashplate screws, carpets and seats in the reverse order to Steps 1 & 2


Step 11:
Stand back and observe.

It should look something like this. (If it doesnt.. you buggered it up)

Installed.jpg


VZR/GTi Brace
Advantages: Sits perfect with parcel shelf, inconspicuous, factory made

or this

Cusco-3pt-rear-brace.jpg

Photo Courtesy of CoZZm0


Cusco 3 Point Rear Brace
Advantages: Removable 3rd Point for extra tightness, BLINGY!





Thanks for reading. If you have any questions then shoot me a PM. If you find any mistakes or obmissions then publically abuse me in this thread.

If you want a Rear Brace desperately then PM me and I'll see what I can do.

Andrew.


P.S. Please ask before stealing this to post on other websites. :rolleyes:
 
Yeah Mine is indeed a 5 door SRI, ahah.
Thanks for all the help boys, and many thanks to Shiny_Blue for just about the bst write up ever, haha.
Cheers again, Joe
 
I'd have thought it would be easy enough the drill the holes though,
the position of the holes would be harder to get right than the actual drilling haha.
 
nissan do things in strange ways dont they :/

either way, my...

p1 1.4 gx did...
p1 Autech did (obviously)
p2 SRi doesnt
 
mine was there and threaded, nissan lucky dip i suppose.

must be annoying going to all that trouble for something that no matter how hard i try to notice a difference from i cant, theres nothing different at all that i can feel, same with the front. bushes are too soft for any sort of bracing to make a difference imo, any stress just goes elsewhere, probably doing more harm than good by transferring were the stress is going at a guess.
 
Well thanks to all the advice I fitted the rear strut brace yesterday, with no problems at all!
Cheers to all that helped.. Photos to follow :)
 
just had a look before fitting the rear strutbrace... only to find i dont have the mounting holes....

got a phase 1 SRi 97 on an R

any ideas .... or is it not worth putting it on???

gonn be having GTi shocks and Lowered 30mm GMaxx springs?
 
Not everyone has them mate sorry.

Some dont have the holes at all.
Some have just the holes.
Some have the holes with the threads inside. They are the luckiest of all.
 
Back
Top Bottom