N16 vvl (SR16VE.N1)

O

Out Of Sight

It was like this at first


A kind gentleman decided to make it like this


I managed to repair it at this form


Soon after 100.000km and 5 years of operation, transmission broke on a highway trip (QG15DE engine)


I had seen this a couple of days earlier and it was like telling me come on! What are you waiting for?

I recently realized that it should had 80-120.000km judging by the stickers on the airbox




The internal view during a recent cover gasket replacement made me happy



 
For those not familiar with these engines. This comes from Pulsar VZ-R N1 (engine SR16VE.N1) It's a limited production vehicle with 300 VersionI and 200 VersionII according to official records. Most of them were white and a few were black. Lucino vehicles are quite few. The majority of them belongs to VersionII.
Mine belongs to a Pulsar VersionI and belongs to the first 50 vehicles produced accoring to the vin I got from the japanese company that had originally messed with my ecu.

Some official papers


SR16VE transmission


SR16VE.N1 transmission


Nismo SR16VE.N1 transmission


N1 shares the same gearing with VZ-R but N1 uses a hydraulic clutch.
Nismo transmission is extremely rare and used for race teams.
Nismo versions had different pistons,cams, cam gears, bearings, oil cooler, use no power steering and AC.
Nothing regarding Nismo can be obtained by end-customers.

Just before I make the swap. I had performed a rear drum to disk conversion and had bought these beauties for the front.
Z32 aluminum calipers 26mm


Some additional parts needed (brake lines were not suitable for N16)


DBA 4000 disks 280x26 with pattern for Ν16


DBA brochures


I've runned about 20.000km and disks had no single incident besides a minor heat. It seems they haven't reached 458C yet.



 
I managed to replace my stock cluster with a Wingroad Υ11 ΖVS (SR20VE) one. I currently have a JB15 10k rpm cluster


I placed a thicker P11 turbo diesel radiator


The old P11 SR20DE one


High pressure radiator caps (stock 0,9)


Wide flow Billion thermostat 71C (stock 82C for 16VE and 76,5C for SR20)



To place a lower temp thermo you have to keep in mind that there is a cold start ecu setting that may have to be altered.
This tells the ecu when engine is fully warmed. Performance would be poor and fuel consumption would be bigger till you hit the 75C (sr16ve) or 65C (sr20) temperature range of stock ecu.

New SR16VE water pump. The old one started to leak the same day I was going to replace it.

Large water pump pulley doesn't work on this pump. I've had it and removed it. The pump is very sufficient soon the car is on the move. Sitting idle in traffic you get a very fast growing temperature. High pressure radiator cap has helped a lot on this.

 
Greddy built-in thermostat adapter for sensors and oil cooler installation



The adapter requires a 3/4x16UNF (Ν14 SR20) filter and not the Μ20x1.5
The bolt thread for fastening the filter is always 3/4χ16UNF so depending the engine we use the correct thread for the block (Μ20x1.5 for VE)

Comparing the 2 filters (the big one is the N14 3/4x16UNF)


I found a more appropriate 3/4x16UNF filter for use with the adapter, same size as the M20x1.5





 
It's time for the gauges


I ordered them from Japan and I had to turn them over facing me cause they were designed for RHD




ULTRA spark cables


I initially used Iriway 7 and then switched to NGK Racing plugs


A VE exhaust header compared to the Ν1


I had to make a custom secondary and used 2.36" (60mm) straight through exhaust

The secondary might be too long according a few people tests on Fujis.

Aluminum 80mm N1 specific MAF


 
N1 air hose


N1 ECU with board and roms by Central20


Central20 tuning proved to be a total crap! We had to advance distributor till it knocked to have this result comparing to stock versionI with 8500limiter

same on wheels


This is the first correct tuning with 9000rpm limiter compared to VersionI 8500limiter (8000 is the stock limiter on 16VE)


same on wheels


A year later where I had finished on most mods and service parts we decided to see if there was any progress

VersionI (6300 & 6550) vs different points


on wheels


VersionII (thin line, single point at 6700) vs messed VersionI on wheels


VersionI, VersionII, Tuned on 8500 limiter


VersionII on 8500 limiter vs 2 tuned on 9000


The best ever result was this comparing to stock VersionI without speed limiter


I've revved the engine up to 10.000rpm with high speed bouncing the limiter and got the feeling that everything remained in place. There was a valve float noise above 9500 though.

I'm currently using single point at 6500 with 9500rpm limiter. All the extra tuning was done locally by bill

I believe the drive train losses have become quite high and should blame the stock, abused clutch for it.
Next step is to convert it to 2lt.

It's a fully equipped street vehicle on 16" wheels. Car videos here
 
OH
MY
GOD

ITS HAPPENING. THE APOCALYPSE

nah im shitting. this is actually amazing. i thought i saw and amazing N16 this morning. then you come along. WOW
 
VE thermostat is 82 deg you say? hmm thats what mine is supposed to have.....

definately a good thing what you have done :D
 
WOW!

Awsome car man.

That's a VE, an N1 and a GTiR powered N16 on the site. Who said N16's were boring and had no potential? :)
 
:) Thanks everyone! It's mostly on the owner's love of the car and ability to spend money for it.
Now that I'm a bit more experienced I would prefer to own a light N15 or N14.

TheSam said:
VE thermostat is 82 deg you say? hmm thats what mine is supposed to have.....
Click to expand...
The SR16VE ones use 82C thermostat. Few other SR use it too.
The majority of SR20 (sr20ve,DET) use a 76,5C thermo.

To place a lower temp thermo you need to alter an ecu setting which tells the engine when it's warmed up and ready to operate at maximum performance. This setting is at 75C on all sr16ve ecus and 65C on SR20 ecus so until you reach that temp your engine will not perform the maximum and it will burn more fuel.

My cruising temperature is ~80C so the thermo itself can't do miracles and I would recommend a 76,5C thermo for a sr16ve.
 
Great build, you Greeks are definately ahead of the game. Good to have your knowledge around here.
 
:lol::lol: thanks man!

Some info regarding the cluster swap.

It was a complete nightmare for me to make it happen..

I managed to make the cluster smoke two times trying to make it lit.
After the first time when I put back my stock cluster I didn't have tacho signal anymore...
The ecu tacho signal circuit was fried!

I've used this little device to fix my ecu tacho issue.
IMG_5661.jpg

All it needed was to get signal from distributor or coil. I used the tacho output signal wire of my distributor. The adapter was set for low voltage tacho output using the dip switches and with the up/down buttons you calibrate the engine cylinders so that is accurate. The adapter produces signal also on the other output exits depending on dip switches settings. This could be useful to some who use several rpm calibrated devices.

Dakota Digital has some interesting adapters including for diesel engines.

I got another cluster to try on and gave it a new look. :)
IMG_5535Medium.jpg

IMG_5603.jpg


I used these T5 SMD LEDS
gt_rsk560-img600x399-1199769215t5-2.jpg

gt_rsk560-img600x399-1199769219t5-1.jpg


The cluster had the stock plugs on!
IMG_5584.jpg

Pin 13: 2 pulses signaling
This is the purple/red wire. This wire is used by the ecu to read speed. Without it ecu operates in safe mode and engine is in poor performance.

IMG_5583.jpg


Most JDM clusters require this temperature sensor for the water gauge to operate
IMG_5585.jpg



Plug 1 White: Pin 1 to pin 24 ( 6 pins, then 5 and 13 pins on the bottom)
Plug 2 Brown: Pin 25 to pin 44 (5 pins then 4 and 11 pins on the bottom)
Plug 3 Brown: Pin 45 to pin 68 (6 pins then 5 and 13 pins on the bottom)

This is what they look like
stokc_plugs.jpg


Pin 5: Seat Belt
Pin 7: Open door lamp
Pin 8: Open door lamp
Pin 9: Hand Brake (DRIVER SWITCH)
Pin 10: ABS
Pin 11: driver's door contact
Pin 13: 2 pulses signaling
Pin 15: SPEED IN.
Pin 16: Tachometer
Pin 17: FUEL LEVEL
Pin 18: WATER TEMP
Pin 19: rear window heating signal
Pin 22: driver's door switch
Pin 23: central lock window open signal
Pin 24: central lock window close signal


Pin 25: Left Turn
Pin 26: Beam light
Pin 27: Beam GROUND
Pin 28: SRS Ground (Airbag ground)
Pin 29: Right Turn
Pin 30: Hazard Switch - GROUND
Pin 32: 8 pulses signaling
Pin 36 : P indicator
Pin 37: R indicator
Pin 38: N indicator
Pin 39: D & 1,2,3,4,5,6 indicator
Pin 40: L indicator
Pin 41
Pin 43: KEY IN detector


Pin 45: Check engine
Pin 46: CVT
Pin 47: Glow light (not connected)
Pin 48: PTT light Probably not used!!!!
Pin 56: LOCK relay signal for passenger and rear doors
Pin 57: UNLOCK relay signal for passenger and rear doors
Pin 58 relay DEFROST WINDOW
Pin 59: GROUND
Pin 60: INDOOR CABIN LIGHTS
Pin 61: -
Pin 62: BAT (+)
Pin 64: BACK LIGHT
Pin 65: Back light GROUND
Pin 66: IGNITION
Pin 67: Oil Pressure switch
Pin 68: Charge battery indicator

I placed at Pin 63 the earth of the fuel tank sensor and solder along with pin 59 the earth of the speed sensor. I initially used the L indicator as the front fog lights indicator and then the P indicator. The ABS indicator was used for rear fog light.
Thankfully JB15 cluster had exactly the same wiring except the CVT indicators so I only have one fog indicator (abs light).
 
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