N16 vvl (SR16VE.N1)
- Thread starter Out Of Sight
- Start date
Yes that's the one.
Can't wait either... Mechanics constantly busy though.
Can't wait either... Mechanics constantly busy though.
i'm an n16 hater, however, i'd buy this.
Finally we made a custom WAI.
Tube was 80mm along with the flex pipes.
Outside diameter of N1 maf is 85mm and needs some effort to squeeze the flex in.
The nipples needed was 16mm for the front and 14mm for the rear.
We made only dyno runs after installation without tuning involved. Run 4 was done in April.
I was using the same pod filter before but on the stock N1 rubber air hose.
Gains were from +2 to +8Hp on the fly and +5 to +15Nm
We also made a run without using a filter at all, just the maf. The curves were identical with the ones above.
My country is considered to have hot summer days 35C-45C.
Well I'm running 5W30 Motul 8100 X-Max for about a month. Engine seems to love the oil. It feels and sounds better. I get the best temperatures and high pressure readings using this oil.
It running colder till it's fully warmed and it cools down a lot faster. So far no oil is missing and the max it had hit was 105C. I was using 0W40 Castrol Edge Sport before (had also tried 300V 5W40 & 10W40).
Video using the JB15 cluster. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOkXGQXceZg
Tube was 80mm along with the flex pipes.
Outside diameter of N1 maf is 85mm and needs some effort to squeeze the flex in.
The nipples needed was 16mm for the front and 14mm for the rear.
We made only dyno runs after installation without tuning involved. Run 4 was done in April.
I was using the same pod filter before but on the stock N1 rubber air hose.
Gains were from +2 to +8Hp on the fly and +5 to +15Nm
We also made a run without using a filter at all, just the maf. The curves were identical with the ones above.
My country is considered to have hot summer days 35C-45C.
Well I'm running 5W30 Motul 8100 X-Max for about a month. Engine seems to love the oil. It feels and sounds better. I get the best temperatures and high pressure readings using this oil.
It running colder till it's fully warmed and it cools down a lot faster. So far no oil is missing and the max it had hit was 105C. I was using 0W40 Castrol Edge Sport before (had also tried 300V 5W40 & 10W40).
Video using the JB15 cluster. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOkXGQXceZg
What does a WAI do? I thought the point was to get as much cold air as possible.
VE engines work best only with short ram intake (WAI)
Ah that makes sense, no point having a long air intake on a high revving engine I presume.
To the one's interesting in N16 I'm providing some links on stuff I've done to mine.
Fuel Pump to Walbro installation
Front sway bars
Strut brace and rear sway bar
Springs
Bushings
Short shifter
Fuel Pump to Walbro installation
Front sway bars
Strut brace and rear sway bar
Springs
Bushings
Short shifter
It's kinda amusing actually...
I found some leaks on my exhaust.
I would like to try a larger one but I wanted to test it somehow.
What we did was to completely remove cat and exhaust and leave on only header and Y-pipe collector with 2.36" (60mm) short pipe.
You really can't imagine what was happening with the noise...
Upon activation of vvl operator was trying to keep his teeth in place
This is the video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9QdYtbX-CI
These are the results
Green line is an old run with everything on
Blue line is the difference but adding WAI and no extra tuning
Red line is the result with no exhaust and extra tuning
I will make a larger exhaust and tune again, then it will be the time for header etc
These are the times I visited the specific operator for testing stuff
I found some leaks on my exhaust.
I would like to try a larger one but I wanted to test it somehow.
What we did was to completely remove cat and exhaust and leave on only header and Y-pipe collector with 2.36" (60mm) short pipe.
You really can't imagine what was happening with the noise...
Upon activation of vvl operator was trying to keep his teeth in place
This is the video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9QdYtbX-CI
These are the results
Green line is an old run with everything on
Blue line is the difference but adding WAI and no extra tuning
Red line is the result with no exhaust and extra tuning
I will make a larger exhaust and tune again, then it will be the time for header etc
These are the times I visited the specific operator for testing stuff
does anybody know if these are the pin numbers for the STANDARD n16 clocks? or for the CVT clocks?
cheers guys and girls
Plug 1 White: Pin 1 to pin 24 ( 6 pins, then 5 and 13 pins on the bottom)
Plug 2 Brown: Pin 25 to pin 44 (5 pins then 4 and 11 pins on the bottom)
Plug 3 Brown: Pin 45 to pin 68 (6 pins then 5 and 13 pins on the bottom)
This is what they look like
Pin 5: Seat Belt
Pin 7: Open door lamp
Pin 8: Open door lamp
Pin 9: Hand Brake (DRIVER SWITCH)
Pin 10: ABS
Pin 11: driver's door contact
Pin 13: 2 pulses signaling
Pin 15: SPEED IN.
Pin 16: Tachometer
Pin 17: FUEL LEVEL
Pin 18: WATER TEMP
Pin 19: rear window heating signal
Pin 22: driver's door switch
Pin 23: central lock window open signal
Pin 24: central lock window close signal
Pin 25: Left Turn
Pin 26: Beam light
Pin 27: Beam GROUND
Pin 28: SRS Ground (Airbag ground)
Pin 29: Right Turn
Pin 30: Hazard Switch - GROUND
Pin 32: 8 pulses signaling
Pin 36 : P indicator
Pin 37: R indicator
Pin 38: N indicator
Pin 39: D & 1,2,3,4,5,6 indicator
Pin 40: L indicator
Pin 41
Pin 43: KEY IN detector
Pin 45: Check engine
Pin 46: CVT
Pin 47: Glow light (not connected)
Pin 48: PTT light Probably not used!!!!
Pin 56: LOCK relay signal for passenger and rear doors
Pin 57: UNLOCK relay signal for passenger and rear doors
Pin 58 relay DEFROST WINDOW
Pin 59: GROUND
Pin 60: INDOOR CABIN LIGHTS
Pin 61: -
Pin 62: BAT (+)
Pin 64: BACK LIGHT
Pin 65: Back light GROUND
Pin 66: IGNITION
Pin 67: Oil Pressure switch
Pin 68: Charge battery indicator
I placed at Pin 63 the earth of the fuel tank sensor and solder along with pin 59 the earth of the speed sensor. I initially used the L indicator as the front fog lights indicator and then the P indicator. The ABS indicator was used for rear fog light.
Thankfully JB15 cluster had exactly the same wiring except the CVT indicators so I only have one fog indicator (abs light).
cheers guys and girls
Plug 1 White: Pin 1 to pin 24 ( 6 pins, then 5 and 13 pins on the bottom)
Plug 2 Brown: Pin 25 to pin 44 (5 pins then 4 and 11 pins on the bottom)
Plug 3 Brown: Pin 45 to pin 68 (6 pins then 5 and 13 pins on the bottom)
This is what they look like
Pin 5: Seat Belt
Pin 7: Open door lamp
Pin 8: Open door lamp
Pin 9: Hand Brake (DRIVER SWITCH)
Pin 10: ABS
Pin 11: driver's door contact
Pin 13: 2 pulses signaling
Pin 15: SPEED IN.
Pin 16: Tachometer
Pin 17: FUEL LEVEL
Pin 18: WATER TEMP
Pin 19: rear window heating signal
Pin 22: driver's door switch
Pin 23: central lock window open signal
Pin 24: central lock window close signal
Pin 25: Left Turn
Pin 26: Beam light
Pin 27: Beam GROUND
Pin 28: SRS Ground (Airbag ground)
Pin 29: Right Turn
Pin 30: Hazard Switch - GROUND
Pin 32: 8 pulses signaling
Pin 36 : P indicator
Pin 37: R indicator
Pin 38: N indicator
Pin 39: D & 1,2,3,4,5,6 indicator
Pin 40: L indicator
Pin 41
Pin 43: KEY IN detector
Pin 45: Check engine
Pin 46: CVT
Pin 47: Glow light (not connected)
Pin 48: PTT light Probably not used!!!!
Pin 56: LOCK relay signal for passenger and rear doors
Pin 57: UNLOCK relay signal for passenger and rear doors
Pin 58 relay DEFROST WINDOW
Pin 59: GROUND
Pin 60: INDOOR CABIN LIGHTS
Pin 61: -
Pin 62: BAT (+)
Pin 64: BACK LIGHT
Pin 65: Back light GROUND
Pin 66: IGNITION
Pin 67: Oil Pressure switch
Pin 68: Charge battery indicator
I placed at Pin 63 the earth of the fuel tank sensor and solder along with pin 59 the earth of the speed sensor. I initially used the L indicator as the front fog lights indicator and then the P indicator. The ABS indicator was used for rear fog light.
Thankfully JB15 cluster had exactly the same wiring except the CVT indicators so I only have one fog indicator (abs light).