Problems with s/h N16

It also has an annoying fault I noticed today where the heater is permanently blowing hot air, wherever I position the heat control. I don't suppose there is some setting of the heating controls where this could be correct?


As for the above problem, the heater control unit connects to the heater box inside the dash by a cable. I have had the bit of plastic on the inside of the control unit break off in the past, thus rendering the switch inoperable.(it would still turn, but wouldnt change the setting). I'd say thats what your problem is.
 
Extreme said:
If you want to check the fault codes, you could follow this:
http://www.b15u.com/sentra-specific...nfo/206-obd-ii-codes-list-clearing-codes.html

I know it doesnt help with the garage being complete pricks about the situation and refusing to help. But i'd be checking the codes first. it could be a simple 5pound fix.

returning the car, wont really help you will it? you'll be left without a car, and have to go car shopping again.
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Thanks very much, that is extremely helpful, I shall try that tomorrow.

No, returning the car won't help much, but it will put me back in a state I was in before. I don't see why I should pay someone fifty pounds (?) to diagnose a fault that the garage should be diagnosing themselves (or finding before the sale when they allegedly serviced the car).

The simple fact is, with their attitude I now do not really want anything more to do with them. I phoned up perfectly friendly, expecting them to say "sure pop it in and we will have a look for you". I do not really wish to deal them, or for them to have my business any more.
 
Extreme said:
It also has an annoying fault I noticed today where the heater is permanently blowing hot air, wherever I position the heat control. I don't suppose there is some setting of the heating controls where this could be correct?


As for the above problem, the heater control unit connects to the heater box inside the dash by a cable. I have had the bit of plastic on the inside of the control unit break off in the past, thus rendering the switch inoperable.(it would still turn, but wouldnt change the setting). I'd say thats what your problem is.
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Thanks, if I end up keeping the car I would expect to get this sorted, this is not a show-stopper as far as I am concerned.

The engine running I consider a basic requirement for acceptability :)
 
I agree. A simple diagnoses wouldnt have hurt on their behalf. You've got to understand what a service involves. If there was no codes at the time of the service, they aren't going to look much further for faults, if the car appears to be running fine.

I know in australia, once you drive a used car out of the parking lot, they only have to provide you with a 3 month warranty on parts, not labour. This includes diagnosing issues.

After you pull the codes, let me know what ones you get, and i'll see if I can help any further in diagnosing it.
Some common faults for the S1 N16's are the coilpacks and the AFM/MAF.
 
Extreme said:
I agree. A simple diagnoses wouldnt have hurt on their behalf. You've got to understand what a service involves. If there was no codes at the time of the service, they aren't going to look much further for faults, if the car appears to be running fine.

I know in australia, once you drive a used car out of the parking lot, they only have to provide you with a 3 month warranty on parts, not labour. This includes diagnosing issues.

After you pull the codes, let me know what ones you get, and i'll see if I can help any further in diagnosing it.
Some common faults for the S1 N16's are the coilpacks and the AFM/MAF.
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Thanks, yes I think you have a fair point about what I should expect from a service.

As far as the law goes though, in the UK we have the sale of goods act which is entirely separate from any guarantee they offer. This states that the goods must be of Satisfactory Quality and Fit for Purpose. It is their contractual responsibility, not some third party warranty company, who they cannot oblige me to deal with.

I think I have a strong case that the car cannot have been of satisfactory quality as it only lasted 25 miles and not fit for purpose as obviously its purpose is to be driven safely on roads! I offered them my preferred remedy of them just checking and fixing it, but they refused.

If I had had the car for a month and driven 2000 miles the situation would be very different as I could be deemed to have 'accepted' the car by using it.

When I bought the car they told me they had a workshop around the back. I am now wondering if even this is true as their website says nothing about servicing, for example. Perhaps they lied about this to get the sale and this would be obvious if I physically brought the car back and they have no-one who could look at it! Of course, they might well have a workshop but their attitude gives me reason to doubt even this.

I'll post any codes I find tomorrow. Thanks.
 
When you drove it for the first 100 miles, did you notice any jerking whist cruising or accelerating? If you didn't then there's no way of the garage knowing that it was going to fail at some point. It should be the garages responsibility to a certain point after which, then it's the warrantee but there's not really a law to say what length this period should be.

Coilpack is relatively cheap, £25 at a guess, just change it yourself if you want to keep the car. I suppose it's a principal thing if the garage has to pay for it.
 
Unfortunately, I couldn't get any flashing from the check engine light, despite trying this several times.

Is it possible the sequence is different for a UK 2001 N16 1.5E?

Thanks
 
Darchitect said:
When you drove it for the first 100 miles, did you notice any jerking whist cruising or accelerating? If you didn't then there's no way of the garage knowing that it was going to fail at some point. It should be the garages responsibility to a certain point after which, then it's the warrantee but there's not really a law to say what length this period should be.

Coilpack is relatively cheap, £25 at a guess, just change it yourself if you want to keep the car. I suppose it's a principal thing if the garage has to pay for it.
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I did notice it as soon as I got the car, but put it down to my not being used to driving it and - as the fuel tank was almost completely empty - possibly a bit of muck clogging things up somewhere. It got progressively worse though over the next 25 miles.

That is not really the point however, whether they 'knew' about it, they are still responsible for the quality of goods they sell me for a time until I can be deemed to have accepted the car.

Just like if I buy a toaster from Amazon that turns out to be faulty after a few days, obviously there is no suggestion that Amazon knew about it before they sold it to me. It is still their legal responsibility to repair/replace/refund though (my choice). That is simply what the law says for businesses selling to private consumers, whether it is a toaster or a car the law still applies.

It is not really about the money, I do not care if I pay £25 to fix it, it is more the garage trying to evade their responsibilities. Instead of them checking and fixing it, they insist I go to another garage, pay for diagnosis, contact the insurance company who provide the warranty and provide them with an estimate and other supporting documentation they require, then wait while they decide if my 'claim' is valid, then I can give the garage the go-ahead to fix it if the insurance company agree.

I do not see why I should go pleading to an insurance company when it is the garage's legal duty to fix it.
 
steve271 said:
Unfortunately, I couldn't get any flashing from the check engine light, despite trying this several times.

Is it possible the sequence is different for a UK 2001 N16 1.5E?

Thanks
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sorry mate, I just double checked the service manual. the above procedure isn't listed for the 01's. The only procedures it lists are with a scan tool. either consult2, or GST(Generic Scan Tool).
 
steve271 said:
I did notice it as soon as I got the car, but put it down to my not being used to driving it and - as the fuel tank was almost completely empty - possibly a bit of muck clogging things up somewhere. It got progressively worse though over the next 25 miles.

That is not really the point however, whether they 'knew' about it, they are still responsible for the quality of goods they sell me for a time until I can be deemed to have accepted the car.

Just like if I buy a toaster from Amazon that turns out to be faulty after a few days, obviously there is no suggestion that Amazon knew about it before they sold it to me. It is still their legal responsibility to repair/replace/refund though (my choice). That is simply what the law says for businesses selling to private consumers, whether it is a toaster or a car the law still applies.

It is not really about the money, I do not care if I pay £25 to fix it, it is more the garage trying to evade their responsibilities. Instead of them checking and fixing it, they insist I go to another garage, pay for diagnosis, contact the insurance company who provide the warranty and provide them with an estimate and other supporting documentation they require, then wait while they decide if my 'claim' is valid, then I can give the garage the go-ahead to fix it if the insurance company agree.

I do not see why I should go pleading to an insurance company when it is the garage's legal duty to fix it.
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print off various trading standard forms about the sale of cars,walk into garage whilst carrying afore mentioned and strongly discuss matters with the highest member of staff you find/seller.not sure what terms you agreed when you bought it but if it was sold as good-it obviously isn't and is not fit for purpose-could well be an easy fix,but I for one wouldn't entertain trying to find it less than a week in.
 
When you buy goods in the UK, there is a contract made between you and the seller. The terms of the contract on your part is that you shall pay an agreed sum of money for the products. The terms of the contract on the sellers part is that in exchange for the payment they receive from you, they shall provide you goods that are-

Fit for purpose- carry out the function for which they were bought.
As advertised- have all features and functions that might have been listed before the sale, either by labeling, written literature associated with the products, or sales staff.
Free from fault- the product is not sold with defect, wether it be known to the seller before the sale or not.

If any of those three criteria are not met, this is a breach of the contract under which the goods were sold, and the buyer has the right to reject the goods, and have a full refund. Now, obviously it's not quite as clear cut as that as exceptions and nuances apply in regards to terms of sale and time periods... But you've bought this car and its immediately gone wrong. This should be covered.

It's also worth noting that the contract you make is with the seller, and therefore they are the ones that need to deal with the problem. Don't let them try and fob you off to another company or third party warranty place. They made the sale, the contract is between them and you.

Let them know that you know your rights, that they've sold you a product that is faulty and that if the refuse to give you a refund, you'll be seeking legal advice. That generally does the trick. If it doesn't, do exactly that.

As for the engine not picking up coming out of traffic, I've got exactly the same N16 as you, and I do sometimes find it reluctant to get a move on coming out of junctions etc in 1st gear. I had always assumed it was just down to the not very meaty engine, and perhaps me not setting enough throttle. I've not got a misfire or engine light on, but it's got me thinking j might have some low down power issues. Might have to take a look!

Anyway, hope this helps, and good luck!
 
Seebeebee said:
As for the engine not picking up coming out of traffic, I've got exactly the same N16 as you, and I do sometimes find it reluctant to get a move on coming out of junctions etc in 1st gear. I had always assumed it was just down to the not very meaty engine, and perhaps me not setting enough throttle. I've not got a misfire or engine light on, but it's got me thinking j might have some low down power issues. Might have to take a look!

Anyway, hope this helps, and good luck!
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Thanks. Yes this car really doesn't pick up at all, or is very juddery, I try moving the accelerator up and down trying to find a sweet spot where it will catch, maybe after 10 seconds it will start to pick up speed normally. Most worrying, even at 30 mph I can not safely join a traffic stream.

The annoying thing is, it is probably something simple they could sort out, but their attitude has made me realise I do not want to be dealing with them.
 
If they knew about it then they shouldn't have sold it in that state.

Just give it back and buy another one from this site. At least you can find all the history of a car here.
 
I now have a better understanding of what is happening, so thought I'd update this thread after the useful advice I was given before.

I took the car to a Nissan dealer for a diagnosis. The misfiring is caused by water flooding one of the coil packs and consequently water had corroded a spark plug and was getting into the cylinder. They suggested it looked as if the engine had been steam-cleaned and this is the most likely source of the water.

So I'd imagine the garage that sold it to me caused the problem in the first place. There is also a problem with a rear brake calliper sticking and needing replacing.

So now I first need to replace the coil pack and a set of spark plug, but I have a couple of questions...

Do the coil packs just plug in like the old-style HT leads used to?

I'm thinking of getting one ex-breakers from ebay, is this a good idea?

Thanks
 
The coilpacks are a known fault with the ph1's.

Getting one from a wreckers will be fine.

Water into the spark plug wells does happen occasionally.

The rear caliper, is also a pretty common problem. I'd have the caliper rebuilt, or put a new replacement one on it.
 
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