Darren198712
Just chillin'
I was wondering if anyone has a good website or guide on how to spray paint. I am planning to spray my own body kit.
Spray Painting with Kompressor
- Thread starter Darren198712
- Start date
almeratastic
AOC Moderator
LOL! Your enthusiasm is admirable, misguided but admirable.
There is a reason people go to paint shops to get their stuff done, it's because DIY jobs usually look totally gash !
There is a reason people go to paint shops to get their stuff done, it's because DIY jobs usually look totally gash !
I've never done anything big like a bumper, usually take stuff like that to either a body shop or my mate who sprays properly with a compressor, so I just use cans of spray paint.
Only advice I can give is to sand it down well between coats, and don't hold the sprayer too far away from the item you're spraying. Would probably help a lot if you had a few practice runs with something first, and get some practice in... i ballsed up a few things when I first started sraying.
Oo also... make sure you cover everything up in the area, paint gets everywhere!
Ballam
Only advice I can give is to sand it down well between coats, and don't hold the sprayer too far away from the item you're spraying. Would probably help a lot if you had a few practice runs with something first, and get some practice in... i ballsed up a few things when I first started sraying.
Oo also... make sure you cover everything up in the area, paint gets everywhere!
Ballam
Attachments
If your just spraying a bodykit, there's no real reason why you can't do it yourself...
But if you don't have the equipment, you'd prolly be cheaper getting it done at the coachworks...
If you determined to do it youself, you'lll need:
Compressor - no smaller that a 50 litre tank. Regardless of what the packaging says, any smaller than 50 litres is not enough!!!
Spray gun, preferably gravity fed - less paint wastage.
Scotch pads for rubbing down.
You might need plastic primer...
Mixing cups.
Paint strainers.
Somthing to mix/stir the paint with.
Paint (preferably solvent based basecoat) 500ml is more than enough.
Paint thinner.
Pannel wipe (degreaser)
Gun cleaner (you can use the paint thinners)
2K (two pak) NON-ISOCYANIDE Laquer - this MUST be NON-ISOCYANIDE, or you'll die!!
1200grit wet and dry paper.
G3 formula.
Time.
Patience.
Patience.
More Patience.
You'll also need somewhere indoors where you can paint...
Method:
Rub down the bodykit with the scotchpad, it's very very very important that this is done thoroughly!!
Wipe the bodykit with panelwipe, and dry it off with a lint free cloth (it will evaporate away itself)
Mix the paint (basecoat) and thinners on a 1:1 ratio, stir and pour through a paint strainer into the spray gun resivour.
If your painting bare plastic, spray with plactic primer. DO NOT LET IT DRY!!
Now spray using the compressor and gun.
Give about 2-3 coats.
If it's looking patchy, reduce the pressure on to around 1 bar and spray a light coat.
(note the lack of sanding...)
Once it's had 3 coats, your have an hour to get it laquered...
Mix the laquer 2:1 with hardner (the hardner will come with it)
Spray 2-3 coats.
Let it dry thoroughly - 2 days, unless your able to bake it...
Sand with very wet 1200grit wet and dry (note the fist time I've mentioned to start sanding).
Hose down and dry.
Polish up with G3 formula, total c**t of a job if your doing it by hand.
Stand back and look at all your hard work...
Good Luck.
But if you don't have the equipment, you'd prolly be cheaper getting it done at the coachworks...
If you determined to do it youself, you'lll need:
Compressor - no smaller that a 50 litre tank. Regardless of what the packaging says, any smaller than 50 litres is not enough!!!
Spray gun, preferably gravity fed - less paint wastage.
Scotch pads for rubbing down.
You might need plastic primer...
Mixing cups.
Paint strainers.
Somthing to mix/stir the paint with.
Paint (preferably solvent based basecoat) 500ml is more than enough.
Paint thinner.
Pannel wipe (degreaser)
Gun cleaner (you can use the paint thinners)
2K (two pak) NON-ISOCYANIDE Laquer - this MUST be NON-ISOCYANIDE, or you'll die!!
1200grit wet and dry paper.
G3 formula.
Time.
Patience.
Patience.
More Patience.
You'll also need somewhere indoors where you can paint...
Method:
Rub down the bodykit with the scotchpad, it's very very very important that this is done thoroughly!!
Wipe the bodykit with panelwipe, and dry it off with a lint free cloth (it will evaporate away itself)
Mix the paint (basecoat) and thinners on a 1:1 ratio, stir and pour through a paint strainer into the spray gun resivour.
If your painting bare plastic, spray with plactic primer. DO NOT LET IT DRY!!
Now spray using the compressor and gun.
Give about 2-3 coats.
If it's looking patchy, reduce the pressure on to around 1 bar and spray a light coat.
(note the lack of sanding...)
Once it's had 3 coats, your have an hour to get it laquered...
Mix the laquer 2:1 with hardner (the hardner will come with it)
Spray 2-3 coats.
Let it dry thoroughly - 2 days, unless your able to bake it...
Sand with very wet 1200grit wet and dry (note the fist time I've mentioned to start sanding).
Hose down and dry.
Polish up with G3 formula, total c**t of a job if your doing it by hand.
Stand back and look at all your hard work...
Good Luck.
Darren198712
Just chillin'
it may look gash if you don't know how to spray paint but if you do its different storyalmeratastic said:
here are pics of my spray work on plastic with spray cans
(cans are a lot harder to spray compared to compressors this is because cans contain aerosol gas which reacts with the paint or something like that) but with a compressor its a different story because your using air not gases.
Darren198712 said:it may look gash if you don't know how to spray paint but if you do its different story
here are pics of my spray work on plastic with spray cans
(cans are a lot harder to spray compared to compressors this is because cans contain aerosol gas which reacts with the paint or something like that) but with a compressor its a different story because your using air not gases.
Aerosols are far easier to use...
For a start the paint isn't coming out at such a rate, and overspray isn't such a problem. Plus, all you have to do with a spray can is push the button. With a compressor you've gotta adjust air pressure, the fan of the spray etc...
You can hardly say you know how to spray paint, just beacause you've spray painted a playstation... You obviously don't know how to spray paint, or you wouldn't have posted his thread...
There's a lot more curves and creases in a car, and remember car bodywork is ment to shine like glass...
I'm not trying to put you off... just trying to bring you down to earth a bit...
Darren198712
Just chillin'
well I know how to spray but I want a guide on how to. I know there is a lot of preparation work involved like wet and day and sanding and maybe even using tiger seal to hold the front and rear lip in place.beretta93r said:
I know you need to wet and dry the bumper and then primer it and then wet and dry it a few times to get a smooth finish and then its ready to paint. I know it takes time but want to know some tips on how to paint.
Ive painted my grille and thats as much as id dare to. Had professional training as a sprayer and i still wouldnt attempt a bodykit in my garage. Painting is one thing, colour matching is another story altogether. You may get the finish perfect, and Berettas guide is spot on however climate, moisture, method all attribute to slight variations in the final colour especially when it comes to modern metalics and pearl finishes.
What berette has posted sounds like hes hit the nail on the head.
Personally i only recently had a spraying my bumper incident, very poor spray job has caused the paint to literally peel off the bare plastic underneath and also stone chips, heres a few tips if anyones interested.
Before shows all the areas that need doing, a few rubbed down:
Here shows where ive rubbed the paint down, beleive the term is feathering the paint edges, using soap and water stops the paper clogging up:
All plastic, plastic primed then black primed, should have really used grey but i got away with it:
Nicknamed it the cow at this stage lmao!
Then applied the paint in thin layers:
Pretty much done here:
And here is the resuly after a 1200 grit rub down because it was pretty rough/boobly from the rattle cans:
Def all about the prep work and patience
Personally i only recently had a spraying my bumper incident, very poor spray job has caused the paint to literally peel off the bare plastic underneath and also stone chips, heres a few tips if anyones interested.
Before shows all the areas that need doing, a few rubbed down:
Here shows where ive rubbed the paint down, beleive the term is feathering the paint edges, using soap and water stops the paper clogging up:
All plastic, plastic primed then black primed, should have really used grey but i got away with it:
Nicknamed it the cow at this stage lmao!
Then applied the paint in thin layers:
Pretty much done here:
And here is the resuly after a 1200 grit rub down because it was pretty rough/boobly from the rattle cans:
Def all about the prep work and patience
Darren198712
Just chillin'
I asked mates mate and he works for this scratch remover and spray paint company (he works for "we don't paint the car we paint the scratch <forgotten the name of the company but thats the slogan")Damo-Sri said:
anyway he said a oven does not make much of a difference. if its a clean oven then it makes a difference but if its unclean then it does not make much of a difference. I asked him because the body shop I want to go to has a oven but not a very clean oven so I thought I might do it my self. the guy that worked for the company give it a go if not get some one to do it.
ah yeah the other question Do I need Lacquer I heard to use it to give of a good finish but I also heard it flakes off ???
you'll need laquer to get the shine like the body work, but thats when i'm working with spray... dunno if you need it with a compressor/spray gun...
*Shakes head and looks at the floor*
Anynone who doesnt bake a newly painted surface with an oven is not giving a good service. Allowing pain to dry naturally will leave it prone to premature aging and a bad colour match. Baking the paint allows it to dry and set evenly, you wouldnt bake a cake under a lightbulb would you?
Laquer is the paints last line of defense againsy UV light form the sun, scratches and impact damage. A metalic coulour will need to be laquered to achieve its desired colour match, as will a pearlescent colour. It will only peel if not given even coverage or if applied to a contaminated surface.
Anynone who doesnt bake a newly painted surface with an oven is not giving a good service. Allowing pain to dry naturally will leave it prone to premature aging and a bad colour match. Baking the paint allows it to dry and set evenly, you wouldnt bake a cake under a lightbulb would you?
Laquer is the paints last line of defense againsy UV light form the sun, scratches and impact damage. A metalic coulour will need to be laquered to achieve its desired colour match, as will a pearlescent colour. It will only peel if not given even coverage or if applied to a contaminated surface.
D
Deleted member 939
Guest
darren3980948920 said:
Darren I'm not even joking, i love it when you start threads, what's air if it's not a gas? a sandwich?
you can try it yourself i guess mate, full marks for enthusiasm, but its something i'd never do (bodywork) its defnatley a skill you have to master and i dont think id want to try it on a car i had plans for entering shows with like yours.
I've got a compressor and I'm going to give it a bash, purely because I can.
Its all the mixing of paint and shit that puts me off, but I'll get around to it at some point.
I've been talking to folk that used to do it and they told me the best way to learn is to practice.
Get some scrap panels from somewhere and give it a try, it is harder than you'd initially think but as they say, practice makes perfect. See what works and what doesn't. Start small m8 and see how you get on.
Its all the mixing of paint and shit that puts me off, but I'll get around to it at some point.
I've been talking to folk that used to do it and they told me the best way to learn is to practice.
Get some scrap panels from somewhere and give it a try, it is harder than you'd initially think but as they say, practice makes perfect. See what works and what doesn't. Start small m8 and see how you get on.
i've got a compressor too and am pretty much just practising on my car, its not in the best condition anyway and all the bits i've done so far are fine, i found that the colour match has pretty much been spot on until i put some halfords laquer on it, however the last bit i did i didnt use laquer and its pretty much perfect. only problem is i get bored sanding down filler so its all bumpy 
Darren198712
Just chillin'
thats what I thorght /\ I take his word for itrowdy-GTi said:
get it mix at a paint shop then its a 100% match no arsing aboutJockrock said:
the only paint I will buy from halfords is primer nothing else. my mate brought some paint for his Corsa and he put it on his car and the paint color is slightly off colour so he had to go back to Vauxhall to get it and then it was spot onkieran said:i've got a compressor too and am pretty much just practising on my car, its not in the best condition anyway and all the bits i've done so far are fine, i found that the colour match has pretty much been spot on until i put some halfords laquer on it, however the last bit i did i didnt use laquer and its pretty much perfect. only problem is i get bored sanding down filler so its all bumpy
gas as in aerosol gas not air. if paint is not dry but has a layer of skin and you apply a 2nd layer of paint the gases from the aerosol will react with the paint and mess it up big timeK33 ELV said: