The ultimate GA16DE N/A build.

frank said:
apparently most poppet valves are just made from stainless steel mark :) (21 - 4n) and some valves are stellite coated (on the seat and stem pad)
cant you get those CG inlet valves hardness tested anywhere ? because that 3mm extra length would be useful in raising your C/R eh :cool:
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Actually I cleaned one exhaust valve and there is a red coating on the stem which got off while cleaning it with a brush, the dish just looks rough. No I can't test them anywhere here :(. Might I bother you for a scetch on how should the valve be seated...I lack imagination here :P
 
SphinxMark said:
:(. Might I bother you for a scetch on how should the valve be seated...I lack imagination here :P
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i dunno mark, personally i would get the seats cut so that the full width of the seat was in contact (for maximum heat transfer) but with the valves a bit proud of the seat to raise your C/R a bit more
then open up the throat of the seat as much as poss :)

frank
 
frank said:
i dunno mark, personally i would get the seats cut so that the full width of the seat was in contact (for maximum heat transfer) but with the valves a bit proud of the seat to raise your C/R a bit more
then open up the throat of the seat as much as poss :)

frank
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If you mean resize the seat to fit the new valve, then I guess it's not possible since the 24.x mm seat is already maxed out.

Now it is like so. And it's a bit cut into the head for valve - cylinderhead clearance.
valve.jpg
 
SphinxMark said:
If you mean resize the seat to fit the new valve, then I guess it's not possible since the 24.x mm seat is already maxed out.

Now it is like so. And it's a bit cut into the head for valve - cylinderhead clearance.
valve.jpg
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if you shave 1.5mm off the valve dia mark, then its only a 1mm overlap eh (would be fine imo :))

frank
 
frank said:
if you shave 1.5mm off the valve dia mark, then its only a 1mm overlap eh (would be fine imo :))

frank
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So actually I won't have that big valves, they will only stick out of the seat to raise my compression, and I can bore out the stock seat to enhance the flow a bit.

Right? :lol:
 
Still working on the head, and this is the final size of one port.

p1010267q.jpg


It's huuuuge! :P
Ofc the inside of the ports was resized.

p1010273b.jpg


The last thing I wanted to try out was seating the bigger valves on the exhaust side. The exhaust valves are too close to the combustion walls so I had to re-size it a bit, not much material was grinded off which is good.

p1010277o.jpg


And this is how it sticks out on the stock valve seat. Think it would be good to put bigger seats and seat the valves properly, not to keen on the valves sitting proud.

p1010280jy.jpg


p1010284.jpg


That's about it for now, will try to find some D16 exhaust valves or keep the stock ones(not sure about putting the micra intake valves there), ofc oversize valves would help porting the head a little more near the seats and if I measured correctly the port walls are about 5-6mm, so grinding 1-2mm's overall is possible imo. Oh and the intake-exhaust valve clearance is 3mm's. The piston to valve clearance should be ok too.
 
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that I will smooth it out. Takes quite a lot just to cut out from the walls, still got 3 to go :(...think patience pays off here :rolleyes:
 
you do realise putting a bigger valve inside the same size hole aint going to make it flow any better.. you need a whole new valve seat cutting.. and the exhaust port ported out to the size of the valve for its entire length..
 
CoV said:
do you still want a cylinder head cross section cut?
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I'm only just guessing it could be 5m thick you could be 100% sure if you did a cross cut.

Raceworx said:
you do realise putting a bigger valve inside the same size hole aint going to make it flow any better.. you need a whole new valve seat cutting.. and the exhaust port ported out to the size of the valve for its entire length..
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I'm quite aware of that, think I just explained it bad sorry :rolleyes:. I will put bigger seats when I'm sure I can use the valves I got, just wanted to see if they fit in the head with no trouble.

Just picked up the engine rebuild kit from the US. :D
 
:eek::D
p1010286d.jpg


Just need to get the engine block honed and I can start assembling the engine.

A question to anyone who builds engines, what kind of lube/grease do you use on the crank bearings etc. I've got some MOLYKOTE BR2, it's a high performance, high temperature and corrosion resistant grease...any good?
 
I use mineral oil on the engine internals...never had an issue!

By the way...TOP FUCKING MARKS BUD FOR LEADING THE GA NA BUILD UP!
 
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