Unscrew the centre console and "pop it off", then if you've unscrewed the two screws in the speedo surround, that should pull straight out with a little manouevering around the centre console and steering wheel.
After that, I think the actual dials are screwed in with 3 screws (if i remember right), undo them and pull the unit out far enough to disconnect the three cable connectors behind it... then to change the bulbs, they're at the back of the unit and just unscrew about quarter turn then pull straight out.
B