FAO Anyone about to post a thread relating to 'drag chips', 'electric turbos',......

Ecoteks are for fuel economy not performance and they do work! and the guy who tested his with it on and off, lost 2bhp with it on.
 
sri_alan said:
Ecoteks are for fuel economy not performance and they do work! and the guy who tested his with it on and off, lost 2bhp with it on.
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Yeah I gained 2.4 bhp and 2 lb ft by turning the ecotek off. Then again I seem to remember that another member gained when fitting an ecotek?
 
I'm sure I read somewhere that the ecotek was a load of bollocks and they wre in trouble for making false claims after it was tested by one of the governments agencies!
 
If you want to save fuel buy a diesel or drive slower...its as simple as that.
Ecotecs are good to pass the MOT without a cat though.
 
What do you reckon about the efs power boost valve, i have bought one but haven't yet fitted it. Any power gain from these?
 
id like to know about the power boost valve i know all id does is up the fule presure but getting them set up is sposed to be a nightmare
 
but why would you need higher presure unless you have a moded motor and does it do anything for your un moded motor ?????
 
it may improve throttle response but there is no big point putting it on a std engine.

It is a good complimentry mod to other things (especialy CAI's)
 
I can't believe I've got to sticky this again but it seems that people still haven't got a clue. This time I'm copying to the newbie forum as well.

FFS people, do you reply to the flyers that say "earn £500 a week working from home" that seem to be stuck to the sign posts at every junction, or how about replying to the emails from the Ugandan president's uncle's stepson's brother's cousin that just happens to need to use your account to drop a healthy 10 mil in, or phone the number on the scratchcard that came free with the daily sport, for which you won a brand new sports car, to claim but not bothering to read the small print to see that it costs 5 quid a minute with a minimum 10 minute call?

In fact I know you must otherwise these people wouldn't bother putting the flyers out or sending the emails or scratchcards.
 
Actually electric turbos/chargers do work but only if they develop enough pressure. To do this requires an impeller capable of 40000RPM driven by a DC brushless motor which are rather expensive and don't work to well at 12V and may well drain your battery faster than the alternator can charge it. Don't expect to pay less than £250 for one. When I get one built I'll get the car dyno'd with and without and you can see the difference. Having dificulty getting the parts right now though.
 
initialised said:
Actually electric turbos/chargers do work but only if they develop enough pressure. To do this requires an impeller capable of 40000RPM driven by a DC brushless motor which are rather expensive and don't work to well at 12V and may well drain your battery faster than the alternator can charge it. Don't expect to pay less than £250 for one. When I get one built I'll get the car dyno'd with and without and you can see the difference. Having dificulty getting the parts right now though.
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So the ones on ebay for a tenner dont work, which is why this thread is here.
 
Hally said:
So the ones on ebay for a tenner dont work, which is why this thread is here.
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I doubt it, but the e-Ram is genuine ($300~£180) and good for 1 PSI. But I'm sure if you shopped around for long enough you could find a DC inline extractor fan that could do the same job for less money. The current crop of £99 ones sound feasible but I'd like to see them backed up by technical data like Pressure vs Flow, Pressure vs Speed & Flow vs Speed data charts for the fans. But you'd probably get the similar gains from an equivalent spend on a back box or intake.

I've just been through a site that described using three 6hp motors to develop enough boost to take an Altima from ~105 to 185 whp. Best part of £2000 and it runs of seperate batteries so it's functionality is more like a nitrous kit.

Trouble with this is that it doesn't really become viable until everyone's driving sub 1.5 l engines and a hybrid drivetrain running at maybe 42 V. Smaller cc means less airflow so easier to build up pressure, higer voltage means less amps for the same power so smaller wires. It can be made to work on bigger engines and at lower voltage. Now that I've got a decent idea of the maths/physics involved I'm going to see just how cheap it is to make one of these that'll actually work.

Mazda & GM are looking at this technology so perhaps it's time to take it seriously instead of writing it off as a scam.
 
As stated numerous times, its the 99p ones we're writing off as a scam.
 
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