Have you had a look at the pump to check its actually pumping? Dont they burn out it they are run dry for too long?
Faulty Rad Cap discussion
- Thread starter rowdy-GTi
- Start date
Its more of a circulator than a pump, same principal as a central heating "pump" seeing as thats what i do lol, they can run dry for a while before the bearings are knackered, its definatly pumping? and the impellor isnt stuck? cos they can still make noise even if the impellor is seized
with the ongoings i cant see how it could ever of bleed thur properly Ian.
just need to GTi's together to compare where the hoses go i guess
just need to GTi's together to compare where the hoses go i guess
It doesn't matter what way the heater matrix hoses go on, nor the throttle body coolant pipes.
Take the radiator cap off and remove the bleed screw from the thermostat housing.
Top up the coolant until the coolant starts to appear from the bleed port.
Refit the bleed screw and top up the coolant until it reaches the top of the radiator neck and then refit the cap.
Top up the expansion tank until it reaches the required level (as indicated on the bottle).
Turn on the heaters and make sure the controls are set to warm.
Start the engine and let it idle.
Monitor the temperature gauge and feel the radiator to see if it gets warm or even hot.
If it doesn't, then check the thermostat is operating correctly, becuase if it is stuck in the closed postion then it will overheat.
Let me know how that goes.
Take the radiator cap off and remove the bleed screw from the thermostat housing.
Top up the coolant until the coolant starts to appear from the bleed port.
Refit the bleed screw and top up the coolant until it reaches the top of the radiator neck and then refit the cap.
Top up the expansion tank until it reaches the required level (as indicated on the bottle).
Turn on the heaters and make sure the controls are set to warm.
Start the engine and let it idle.
Monitor the temperature gauge and feel the radiator to see if it gets warm or even hot.
If it doesn't, then check the thermostat is operating correctly, becuase if it is stuck in the closed postion then it will overheat.
Let me know how that goes.
Thats exactly what i`ve done thanks Dave. The only thing i did wrong initally was do it on a slope.
I dont run a stat. The electric pump doesn`t like having one fitted.
I`m wondering if the pump has loose electrical connector or something causing random failure?...i dunno i`m pissed off and cant even be arsed with it.
I dont run a stat. The electric pump doesn`t like having one fitted.
I`m wondering if the pump has loose electrical connector or something causing random failure?...i dunno i`m pissed off and cant even be arsed with it.
would make sense as looking where the pump is, its like trying to pump' after a closed door as it was. whereby the normal one pumps coolant around the engine directly.
no stat and still over heats? redo the connector to the pump for sure. i dont know enough about it to comment really. i guess it just pumps towards the radiator, thru and then to the engine?
no stat and still over heats? redo the connector to the pump for sure. i dont know enough about it to comment really. i guess it just pumps towards the radiator, thru and then to the engine?
It does look like a head or head gasket problem now. :evil:
The system had been well and truely bleed. ZERO air on start up.
I tried a stock rad cap, and as i thought it may do the expansion tank filled up quicker! On close inspection after the engine had run for a while when i reved the engine i could see bubbles entering the expansion tank.
I also did a compression test.
1:140
2:140
3:135
4:150
....and what looked lke steam came out when i removed spark plug 1.
An earlier one soon after the build yielded 140psi across the cylinders.
Opinions. Ideas?
I`m thinking about picking up a known good, complete cylinder head and just swapping my cams overs, just incase the head is cracked....or should i wait and inspect the HG first?
The system had been well and truely bleed. ZERO air on start up.
I tried a stock rad cap, and as i thought it may do the expansion tank filled up quicker! On close inspection after the engine had run for a while when i reved the engine i could see bubbles entering the expansion tank.
I also did a compression test.
1:140
2:140
3:135
4:150
....and what looked lke steam came out when i removed spark plug 1.
An earlier one soon after the build yielded 140psi across the cylinders.
Opinions. Ideas?
I`m thinking about picking up a known good, complete cylinder head and just swapping my cams overs, just incase the head is cracked....or should i wait and inspect the HG first?
Hope its not the head, cause I thought its had headwork/headskim another head wouldn't have this work done. Fingers crossed for you!
'sniffer' test first action Ian, as eddie said hope its a straight forward repair 
shaggy_master
brapp brapp!
Dayum Ian
Were both the block & head faced when the engine was in bits??
Joe
Were both the block & head faced when the engine was in bits??
Joe
yeh goin on my experiences lol, i'd say unfortunaely a definite head gasket, as sam says with bubbles in expansion tank, exactly what all mine did even thuogh other HG signs weren't present.
however, i'd doubt very much that the heads cracked or anything, unless it got VERY hot an some point?
when did you notice an of the heat problems ian, on the thrash home from mapping or just on the drive or something since?
however, i'd doubt very much that the heads cracked or anything, unless it got VERY hot an some point?
when did you notice an of the heat problems ian, on the thrash home from mapping or just on the drive or something since?
Are these repairs not warranty? Sorry I missed it, was this a home build or done buy an engine builder/tuner?
dd
dd
Try just taking the head off with engine in situ, take headgasket off, coat it in lacquer, then ranj it back on. Frank's reused loads of HGs this way.