N16 SR20DE

liam do you have a consult cable? if not you want to borrow my one? as that helped me confirm it was my injectors that were the problem in my swap and saved me a load of time :)
 
Nope, no consult cable!

Injectors are getting power tho. Even if they werent it wouldnt case teh MIL to flash would it?
 
nah i just mentioned the injectors due to that being my problem which was verified using the cable, so i'm hoping it will show what your problem is too ;)

i'll get it in the post monday bud, and you can download ecu talk or nissan datascan off the net :)
 
I wouldnt bother sending it this side of xmas dude, we all know how shite royal mail are it'll probably get lost!!
 
nah i'll be sending it recorded bud, so even if it does go walkies i'll be covered enough to get a replacement. also tbh i think before buying a daily you should try this as it could have you on the road for much less money, and you get to keep your goodies :)

or maybe just buy a consult lead for yourself, a very worthwhile buy imo, mine came next day from horsham dev for about £58 iirc. or maybe if someone closer to you has one?


[edit]
also have you the esm? if so have you followed the procedures from EL page 258 onwards just using a multimeter, this should help pin down the problem if it is nats
[/edit]
 
Nah im not actually buying a daily :lol: Im flat broke at the moment!

If you could send the lead it would be great bud, you still got my address?

Im going to try removing the NATS from the ECU, but this wont be until after xmas as I finish work on wednesday and I doubt ill get back out the unit before then (ill desolder the board at work).
 
heh just looked at what you had listed f/s lol

yeah i just checked and i still have your addy in my pm's, so i'll get it in the post to you.

just wondering about nats, have you tried re-programming the key? if not maybe try that before trying to do what i mentioned above?
 
I presumed youd need to take it into nissan to get teh chip recoded?

Ive just looking in the FSM at the diagnostics, A, B, C, D are all ok as thats what ive been checking today. Ill have a butchers at E but i doubt that the wiring will have broken between the interior loom connectors and the ECU, but worth a go I suppose! Im intruiged by F tho. I cant remember off my head what pin 11 does on the immob and i havent got my notes here, but im certain from my tracings that the only pins to connect to the interior connectors/ecu loom are pin 1 (battery live) and pin 12.

HHMMMMMM. SRS Stuffz.
 
if it isn't ill just have to get hold of a P10 or N14/N15 non NATS ecu.
The P10 ECU will work but you may into different MAP issues on the ECU. The eGT ECU uses a different MAF (2 types early and a late depending on the ECU) this is also the same with the N14 ECU. The best option is a non-NATS ECU from a N15. I think the N15 ph1's has a separate NATS box (where as the phase 2's where inbuilt onto the ECU)
 
Done a little work today.

Made some gear linkages. Started out with a set from a GTi but had to cut, bend and weld them to fit. I didnt have enough of the right diameter sleeving for the stabilser rod either, so had to roll up some sheet steel! They select all gears perfectly, the only downside is the gearstick sits a little over towards the driver but its not really noticable.

Fitted the downpipe. Doh. One of the nuts decided to strip the threads just as it was going tight. Cunt. And the flange that meets the catback didnt compress/seal in the middle so that will blow like a Thai ladyboy.

Wired in the fuel pump relay. Pump now primes.

Troubleshooted the NATS system. Going by the FSM it appears the IMMOB box needs replacing/the whole system re-coding. But Im not 100% on that as the FSM states 2 wires that go the ECU, but my system only has one :S

Anyway, the car still doesnt start but im only waiting on the NATS. Its back on its wheels ready to go!!
 
Where are you looking, it says 1 wire on my FSM. a BR/Y wire.

EDIT: well, apart from the OR/L wire from the clocks (MIL) which goes to the ECU too.
 
Page 258 in EL. Ive got N15 Main FSM.

It tells you to check continuity between pin 12 IMMOB and pin 26 ECU. And the same between pin 11 IMMOB and pin 25 ECU.
 
reet, well you are correct, but if you look at supplement 1, that second wire has vanished.

What phase stuff are you using.

I also discovered the other day that all the engine stuff in "main" is for highports (i.e. in Oz), and the changelog thing for supplement 1 says "changed to roller rocker", so I'd be tempted to use the diagrams in supplement 1.
 
Dont take it for granted that this is correct though, but it got me thinking if they only updated the engine stuff when they released that supplement, those diagrams you're working off may for Oz spec cars.
 
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