Pimp Member

TBH its really not worth the effort on a turbo car if I was going for mega N/A powers I might consider it but when there's a snail pushing the air in its a hell of a step up from the 200sx one anyway... I need to get the engine built and running rather than fannying with bits like that :)
 
Got the block back so I had a quick session gapping the new 87mm 9:1 compression CP pistons..

2013-02-25-744_zpsef66369c.jpg


quick shot of the head

2013-02-25-745_zps38146d4c.jpg


I need to power clean the lot before doing a dry build to check clearances but for that I need my pressure washer to get back from the repair shop and the crank to come back from balancing
 
finally got my crank home.. so all the machine shop work is done..

2013-03-02-778_zpsaf102ebb.jpg


So they have done the following
87mm overbore
deck the block
deck the head
fit 2 new valve stems as they were cracked
recut the new seats and valves
knife edge and balance the crank
balance the flywheel
de grease head and block.
now its up to me to assemble it all back together :D
 
so I built up the bottom end to Plastiguage the mains,

I followed the torque down procedure in the FSM 38lbft then 45degs but I did it with DRY un oiled main bolts
so doing it gave me these results.

2013-03-03-807_zps933a76e4.jpg

2013-03-03-806_zps0bf06835.jpg


now they are under the maximum of 0.050mm at 0.038-0.04 but abit loose compared to the 0.004 to 0.022 they are apparently standard..

I am led to believe that oiling the bolts is required and will increase the clamping force as your removing some of the friction.
the crank is standard sized I checked the mains with a micrometre and they are all 55mm exactly..

I will be running a VVL oil pump which will should keep good pressure with the looser bearings and means I have a bigger cushion of oil to help prevent spinning a bearing

so am I being to paranoid or should I just shut up bolt it down and run it?
 
SHAMELESS COPY PASTE!! but it contains details of the crank weights at the end


So today iv had a few hours measuring my bearing clearances using plastigauge.

2013-03-03-792_zps2aeaf0dd.jpg


so with my block now jet washed and all cleaned I laid in The ACL race bearing and slipped the crank in.

2013-03-03-790_zpsad21c7f4.jpg


following that I placed a section of plastigauge on each main journal like so

2013-03-03-793_zps15898f3b.jpg


following that it was time to put the main caps on you can just see the plastigauge sticking out.

2013-03-03-795_zps88d2b464.jpg


then it was time to bolt it all down to the correct torque levels with the main brace.

2013-03-03-796_zpsa022f3d9.jpg


after that it was time to take it all apart!

2013-03-03-807_zps933a76e4.jpg


measuring the resulting smear gives you an approximate reading of you bearing clearance..

2013-03-03-806_zps0bf06835.jpg


I also weighed the crank against a standard one

2013-03-03-788_zps56e05f89.jpg


2013-03-03-786_zps3da5b28c.jpg


so just over 1KG saved..
 
looking good progress.

what assembly lube are you using? I was recommended to use Graphogen. Only used a tiny amount of the tube if you wanted to use it.
 
you'd be better with pl-x, although it still doesn't go small enough to measure the mains down to the proper tolerances, it's closer than the pl-a your trying to use which only measures to the upper ranges of loose. also turbo build with ve pump or not i'd be hoping for better numbers than that for a fresh build. hopefully you'll have better numbers with lubed bolts :)

.....phone.....
 
from the feedback iv gotten on here the SR20 forum and the SXOC I am felling better about the clearances..

build up wise i'm just using what I always use mineral oil.. rubbed on sensually with my own fair hands.. I like to work it into all the cracks..
 
  • Like
Reactions: CoV
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom