Yer they can be smooth but try some 514 equivilant cams trust me not smooth unless above 3k it driveable but had to relearn the car. glad yours has come through with normal rapid driveability. with better mpg too
Ross Autech
- Thread starter RAJackson
- Start date
i suggest you go look at the specs again...
Dont need to yours have more lift 514s more duration which is what causes the lumpyness 
You cant really compare lift between roller and non roller, the valves are different lengths, roller cams are always going to be less lift than non roller, but meh.
Can someone please explain to me why catcams have two duration figures, such as 282/275 for the 514's, Which one is it? Intake and exhaust different?
Can someone please explain to me why catcams have two duration figures, such as 282/275 for the 514's, Which one is it? Intake and exhaust different?
Always rewarding when you get to this stage where it all gets pulled together. plus now you get her running great any more bigger mods fit and 1 hour map sorted.
Yep intake and exhaust are different Hally, hence the different values.
i believe it is something to do with matching the flow of the intake to the exhaust.
exhaust gases are not as dense as intake, so take less time to expel. or they move faster. or something similar. so longer duration is not needed and would just be wasteful.
its quite lazy. cause if you look at the specs, the intake cam in one set becomes the exhaust cam on the next set, i.e, the profile of a 502 intake cam is the same as a 503 exhaust cam.
so they just change the dowel position and cut the dizzy slot.
149whp / 179.2bhp-153ftlbs
Non-roller conversion
Slightly worked head
Brian Crower Valve Springs
Titanium Retainers
JWT C2 Cams
SR16VE pistons
Nismo FPR @ 3.5bar
Stock Injectors
Blitz Sonic Power filter
SSAC fannymold
2.5 mandrel bent catback
cat still present
Dyno Dynamics rollers
Red before / Green After
BHP / Torque
WHP / AFR
Mapped to 8k but only taken to 7.5k on RR as power was dropping off anyway.
much the same, great to see
david
yup i was chatting to hally last night.
Our specs are almost identical, bar he has a stronger top end build (mechanically).
Gti maps are disappointing with that big lean bit down low. ricks was the same.
i guess that is why the autech feels smoother in standard and modified trim than the GX did.
Our specs are almost identical, bar he has a stronger top end build (mechanically).
Gti maps are disappointing with that big lean bit down low. ricks was the same.
i guess that is why the autech feels smoother in standard and modified trim than the GX did.
All you need to do now is get rid of that BGW
Seriously though, what you doin NOS wise? Going to get it mapped up properly for this or will it be ok as is?
get with the times C-cup! im rocking the spoilerless look just now!
nitrous, nothing at the moment. i cant afford to stick it on before JAE. so it'll be next used in october.
when that time comes around i will be attempting another 100 shot, this time controlling the TIMING retard via nistune.
it will be a little complicated but bear with :
ive still got the Greddy MSS, which will be used to control when the nitrous kicks in (say 3500rpm)
so i know the car can run completely NA map below that with full timing advance, and be safe as there will never be nitrous in the system below that RPM
so my plan is to book an hour on the dyno and alter a COPY of the map steve done to bring the timing back 4* above 3500rpm (or whatever retard is safe) and if need be i can tweak the fuelling slightly if i have to, but obviously id rather not do this as a hotter day will inject more nitrous and could lean out the mix. so i will probly still control it with jets and err on the rich side (11:1 ish)
then when i get to crail its a case of swapping the nistune maps on the ecu, then swapping back later!
simples!
No need. Nitrous is so cold it does the same thing