srbryan N15 Pulsar VZR DP1
- Thread starter srbryan
- Start date
Yep I agree with the brace in the back but can't see why the plates would be put there for any other reason? To me it seems they are more for distributing the stress between the two top mounts without the need for a brace between them which would decrease usable boot space.
By the bar/brace underneath do you mean the piece of metal with two bolts each side in between the rear axle and middle of the car?
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By the bar/brace underneath do you mean the piece of metal with two bolts each side in between the rear axle and middle of the car?
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Always thought it was for side impact.Always binned mine and made no difference
of course not but i was told to bin mine but that was contradicted off another member as far too dangerous....flex rigidity....etc.
Think about where these plates are bolted to and the amount of bolts they use, surely we can all agree they are for added strength to the cars chassis in some way, this maybe for side impact or added rigidity between the shocks but all I can think is, why are there so many bolts in two 'meaningless' pieces of metal between two 'meaningless' parts of the chassis?!
If not then must have just been a joke from nissan.........
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If not then must have just been a joke from nissan.........
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I'm not saying they are meaningless. Nissan, or any other manufacturer, aren't always correct in what they do. They can't stop cars rusting, or chains from snapping for example. I doubt they offer any extra rigidity, why would they bother for a bog standard family h/b? Remove them if you cant be bothered to re-fit them, without imho, any serious consequences. The chassis strength on an average 15 year old n15 is already compromised with tin worm or welding work.
Been a while, lost interest and waiting for stuff.
got my exhaust about a month ago. really happy with it, really good quality and well made.
this is it beside a factory box and the system that was on it
This is when I quickly realised something was wrong
turns out i bought a saloon n15 exhaust haha
.
after abit of research figured out that the centre sections are the same and it was just the back box that are different so a little more on that later.
This is the reason i wanted to get rid of the botch job that was on the car.
Oh that beautiful and strong welding.
Also started wet sanding and polishing the car.
got my exhaust about a month ago. really happy with it, really good quality and well made.
this is it beside a factory box and the system that was on it
This is when I quickly realised something was wrong
turns out i bought a saloon n15 exhaust haha.after abit of research figured out that the centre sections are the same and it was just the back box that are different so a little more on that later.
This is the reason i wanted to get rid of the botch job that was on the car.
Oh that beautiful and strong welding.
Also started wet sanding and polishing the car.
so more about the exhaust, i was abit dissapointed at the start but realise it wouldn't take much to make it work and it would still be alot cheaper and alot better than half the shit that's for sale and extortionate monies.
So got the whole exhuast mounted and took measurements and decided where and how much i would be chopping.
When i cut the bend off and looked into the box there is like a little reducer welded into the pipe?? I haven't a clue what it's for? is it for noise or back pressure or what?
It only goes in about an inch and is cone shaped.
Put the box back on and sized it up and cut a bit more until i ended up with this.
And made a little sleeve that slides over both pipes so i can weld it all up properly, just need to tack it in place in the right position and then weld it fully and add another hanger onto the back of the box.
and the way the exhaust sits now, might also need to shorten the tailpipe but that no big deal.
Also got myself a Fuji mani in perfect nic
only thing i did was swap the rigid bolts for longer ones with springs to allow movement since there is no flexi in it.
Hoping to make a massive burst at it this weekend hopefully with my replacement rear calipers.
So got the whole exhuast mounted and took measurements and decided where and how much i would be chopping.
When i cut the bend off and looked into the box there is like a little reducer welded into the pipe?? I haven't a clue what it's for? is it for noise or back pressure or what?
It only goes in about an inch and is cone shaped.
Put the box back on and sized it up and cut a bit more until i ended up with this.
And made a little sleeve that slides over both pipes so i can weld it all up properly, just need to tack it in place in the right position and then weld it fully and add another hanger onto the back of the box.
and the way the exhaust sits now, might also need to shorten the tailpipe but that no big deal.
Also got myself a Fuji mani in perfect nic
only thing i did was swap the rigid bolts for longer ones with springs to allow movement since there is no flexi in it.
Hoping to make a massive burst at it this weekend hopefully with my replacement rear calipers.
Is there a gasket at the joint there with the springs
Yeah there is one of those mesh doughnut gaskets.
Took out the liitle baffle/restricter, wasn't too wedged in a screwdriver and a few taps with the hammer and it came out.
Straightened out the pipe and it was time to get to business so out came the mig, Made a dash into town to get stainless wire which was hard enough to track down.
tacked everything in place so it wouldn't move when i took it off to weld fully.
Also cut off the tip to shorten it and take the slant out of the end of the tip. was abit of a whore to get straight but got there in the finish.
Straightened out the pipe and it was time to get to business so out came the mig, Made a dash into town to get stainless wire which was hard enough to track down.
tacked everything in place so it wouldn't move when i took it off to weld fully.
Also cut off the tip to shorten it and take the slant out of the end of the tip. was abit of a whore to get straight but got there in the finish.
Everything all welded up and support bracket welded back on.
so it went from this
to this
And on the car
I'm delighted with it to be fair since this was the first time i ever attempted anything like this ever, so I took my time doing it measuring plenty and cutting as little as possible at a time.
The next plan was to to underseal the back half of the car but as i was looking at it I think it makes more sence to drop the axle and tank and do a proper job once instead of trying to underseal around some parts.
If anyone has tips about taking off the tank or axle please let me know, I want to make it as easy and fast as possible because it just feels like longer and longer until i can actually drive the car.
so it went from this
to this
And on the car
I'm delighted with it to be fair since this was the first time i ever attempted anything like this ever, so I took my time doing it measuring plenty and cutting as little as possible at a time.
The next plan was to to underseal the back half of the car but as i was looking at it I think it makes more sence to drop the axle and tank and do a proper job once instead of trying to underseal around some parts.
If anyone has tips about taking off the tank or axle please let me know, I want to make it as easy and fast as possible because it just feels like longer and longer until i can actually drive the car.
All you will have to do is get the rear of the car higher and get as much fuel out of the tank as possible...unclip the fuel pipes from pump side and filler pipes/breather pipes etc and unbolt the tank...pretty much self explanatory looking at it and be prepared for the weight of the tank while lying on your back!
Gave taking off the axle another go this eve, and with the help of a long lever bar and a few mad kicks the bolts loosened, happy days.
Pics are crap, its the best i could do with the shite lighting.
Bolt on lateral link came off handy.
Axle on deck
Removed ABS sensor so they don't get damaged.
I checked the bushings and they all look bang on but my question is: The bushing on the lateral link looks fine but would it be worth my while filling the gaps with tigerseal for extra stiffness or am i just wasting my time?
I know it looks fucked but it's not, it just loose flaps of rubber from casting. That's where i was thinking of filling with tigerseal.
Pics are crap, its the best i could do with the shite lighting.
Bolt on lateral link came off handy.
Axle on deck
Removed ABS sensor so they don't get damaged.
I checked the bushings and they all look bang on but my question is: The bushing on the lateral link looks fine but would it be worth my while filling the gaps with tigerseal for extra stiffness or am i just wasting my time?
I know it looks fucked but it's not, it just loose flaps of rubber from casting. That's where i was thinking of filling with tigerseal.
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Came home after work this eve and was under pressure to get a few jobs done before it got dark, this whole daylight savings thing is a load of bollocks.
Pulled axle out of the shed to powerwash it so it would make my life easier when i would be wire brushing it and painting it.
Into the shed to dry before cleaning and painting,
Then my homemade way of draining the 40L
of juice out the tank.
Old pump, lenghth of hose and battery, only took about 20mins so wasn't too bad. Kept 25L in the drum and transferred the rest into my daily
with all the juice out, got back underneath and took of any pipes and bolts holding the tank on and slowly dropped it to the deck.
And tank out. Very happy only little bit of surface rust on the top so it will clean up a treat.
Will be powerwashed tomorrow morning.
A little bit of cleaning to do before undersealing, at least it's all just surface so shouldn't take long.
And lastly my replacement rear calipers thanks to @Scott
Pulled axle out of the shed to powerwash it so it would make my life easier when i would be wire brushing it and painting it.
Into the shed to dry before cleaning and painting,
Then my homemade way of draining the 40L
of juice out the tank. Old pump, lenghth of hose and battery, only took about 20mins so wasn't too bad. Kept 25L in the drum and transferred the rest into my daily
with all the juice out, got back underneath and took of any pipes and bolts holding the tank on and slowly dropped it to the deck.
And tank out. Very happy only little bit of surface rust on the top so it will clean up a treat.
Will be powerwashed tomorrow morning.
A little bit of cleaning to do before undersealing, at least it's all just surface so shouldn't take long.
And lastly my replacement rear calipers thanks to @Scott