Syv's N16 2.2Di

Syv

Syv

Time for a proper reintroduction I guess. Have shown my diesel back in the days, but with the fresh forum start here comes a few fresh photos.

Happy to say that winter is over and things finally started moving on, firstly fixing important stuff, new turbo bought (GT1549S), gonna be mounted in coming week. Also looked at brakes, changed front discs & pads.

Planing to spend some money on the exterior, Sport+ parts is a goal for this summer. So that's about it for this moment, gonna update this tread from time to time, cheers for looking.

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Is that the same burnt orange found on Primera's it looks good on a N16?


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@Mad Maru: it's more into brown actually, Primeras more into orange I think.

little update.

Not satisfied with a emissions and black smoke ant the top end rpm, before going into more serious moding got to sort this out. Bought K&N filter and a new fuel filter, will see how that affects emissions.
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Also bought this film to change the rubber section between side windows, dunno how exactly it's called. Not the OEM, but should do the job fine.
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That's all for now, need to find some spare time to fit those on,
more progress coming soon.
 
Cheers for the comments, material came from the car paint shop, naming company won't really help cuz its made here in lithuania.

Go myself a free day, so here it is. What you think?
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Before

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After

And the KN filter, haven't done emissions test yet, but the from the looks I can see the difference already.
 
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Got some good news and bad ones..

The good one... They have finally arrived!
Can't decide what tires to buy, 205/50 or 225/45? No lowering planned in this season.

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The bad one is kind of a mystery atm, antifreeze began leaking out and it's not the worn hoses or something like that, Increased pressure inside is pushing liquid out, so it's either radiators plug or head gasket.

Checked all possible symptoms for damaged head gasket and it's not that bad, oil condition the same, antifreeze hoses aren't really hard, car performs the same.
 
Lovely job on the door vinyl :Thumbs:

What size are the wheels? If 16s then 205/50. If 17s then 225/40, or 215/45.
 
Nice wheels :)

225/40 is a great size. Fills the arches well and is still comfy due to the extra width.
 
They're r16 so probably I'll go for 205/50, unfortunately tires will have to wait, got some nasty things going with a coolant.

After trying numerous things, including different antifreeze, new radiator plug and few other stuff, I came to conclusion that head gasket is blown ant compression is being forced into cooling system. So now I've left the car for the pros at nissan, price will be nice no doubt, but at least head unit will be cleaned, polished, reassembled and ready for future mods. Had to be done sooner or later I think.

change list is looking something like this:
Head gaskets
Head bolts
valve cover gaskets
camshaft seals
exhaust manifold gaskets
intake manifold gaskets
and probably some other minor things.

If the water pumps condition will be fine, I'm planing to keep it.

I'm going for OEM parts, though I wonder if there are any aftermarket ones that I should look into (like the head bolts etc), any advice on this topic would be welcome.
 
I think you can safely skip the spark plug tube seals.;)
The camshafts are entirely within the head and have no seals.
Consider replacing the vacuum pump and the timing chain tensioners (depending on wear)

If you were doing it yourself, then the following parts can normally be re-used (I did with the head-gasket on my YD25).
Head bolts (mine weren't stretched).
All seals.
Intake and exhaust gaskets are metal and came away clean for re-use.
If you use a dealer then they will replace all the parts nissan recommend. I did it myself and only replaced the head-gasket. It was a prick of a job with the engine in the van, access is worse than in the cars.

Apparently the service manuals say not to resurface the block deck. But that was why I had to do the head-gasket again. The previous owners had a go and didn't surface the block. The result was the gasket letting go on full boost.
I took to the block with an oil-stone, it took about 3 hours but it cleaned up perfectly. Removed all rust and high-spots. Just get all the debris out the bores when you are done.

The original cause of the headgasket going on my YD25 was the turbo water cooling lines. These run quite hot and are the first thing to corrode through. They develop pin-holes which drop your coolant level too slow to notice until you overheat the engine. Overheat with an alloy head on a cast iron block is enough to break the head-gasket seal.

I have blocked the coolant lines to the turbo. They aren't needed and indeed were not present on later DCi motors.
 
Thanks for the input Kiwi, my first diesel, got some misleads down there.

Actually I followed up some of your advice, gonna reuse the bolts, they're not that cheap as I expected, £5 for one is quite a price then you think how many I would need. Checked the vacuum pump and tensioners, they're fine, so no changes there.

Can't really find a diagnose for the gasket to be so damaged, after removing it there were 3 places on different cylinders that leaked coolant, not in a noticeable amounts (oil still clean) just compression probably, but still, I just couldn't made this myself, previous owner really got this messed up.

Cooling lines aren't corroded, head itself is in a good shape. I had it resurfaced on 0,05mm, new head gasket order, have to wait now.

Maybe you know if the yd22 has these turbo coolant lines? Is it hard to block them off? Does it require striping off head, etc?
 
The turbo coolant lines are external, one leaves from a banjo bolt on the block above the thermostat housing (just under the exhaust manifold), the other from the heater line which wraps around the block over the flywheel and clutch. These meet together and join into the side of the turbo nearest the radiator. You can block up the banjo bolt easily, there is a rubber hose join between the heater line and the turbo coolant line, you can push a ball bearing or similar up this hose to seal it off.

There are different thickness head-gaskets which are denoted by notches on one corner. More notches gives a thicker gasket. If you have shaved the head then you will need a thicker one, but I don't have the measurements which fit with the notches. Did you shave the head because it wasn't flat or just in case?

I was quoted about 3.5 times that price for head bolts. Any chance you or the previous owner overheated the engine? Aluminium heads expand a lot more than the cast block as it heats/cools. It only takes a minor overheat and you break the seal against the gasket on one side.
 
yeah, I'm aware of the thickness level. Shaving is more a warranty issue here, dunno why exactly but if it's a diesel, any proper garage will go for it. Head gasket haven't arrived yet, second week of waiting, I'll post the damaged gasket photos later on, the previous owner of a vehicle was lady from Germany, so (no offense here) anything is quite possible.

Borrowed this 1.0 liter beast for now, got to say it's not that bad when you get use to it . :D

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