Complete Brake Fluid Replacement

Yeah done all exactly that with Stu's turbo car before but it didnt feel as firm still, and did it with mine and even got my mum to help out and press the pedal. As I've said, I've tried the one and two man approach with no joy. So what do garages generally use?

Oh something I should note is that once I've finished bleeding and tightened up the nipples it feels firm, no problem, but as soon as I start the engine and pressure the pedal with servo assist, it goes sloppy, and I'm able to push the pedal to the floor. If I then pump the pedal it firms up a bit but won't last like that.
 
Let me know how you get on and if it's works for you let me know what he's got please! :)
 
RAJackson said:
way me and rick do it is

firm fitting pipe over the nipple into an empty can.
loosen bleed nipple then close again.
open, squeeze pedal, close, release pedal.
repeat till no air comes out at all.

i find washer jet hose is perfect as it is slightly undersized so seals well.

forget all these gizmo's get some one to help, even if its your maw or gran.
Click to expand...

I've always done it this way. Even when using a non return valve. Which wasn't the best. I'm liking that eazibleed yoke from Halfords

I've always start at the calipar which is furthest away from the master cyclinder and worked round to the closest.

Gti would be as follows

1. Rear Left
2. Rear Right
3. Front Left
4. Front Right

Repeat as necessary

Always ended up with a hard one afterwards
 
Personally, I like doing stuff on car that's clean nut and bolt install without many variables. Bleeding brakes does have a few variables, yes can DIY to save money. But with something as important as brakes which might just save your life one day think its better to let a garage do it with pressurised proper equipment etc etc

Being just okay or fine doesn't cut it with brakes sorry, others welcome to bodge away though :)
 
People are saying though Eddie that they are getting a firm pedal after DIY'ing, and noone has said it's 'just okay'. No signs of bodging here matey so your comment is unfounded. I appreciate what you say that you would prefer to let a garage do it anyway though but that's not related to doing it yourself as it's possible to do a good job yourself anyway.
 
Pedal & a mate with abit of tube vs regulated & constant air pressurized system though

The person may not be able to tell the different in feel between a 90% bleed done with abit of hose a mate and a old milk bottle 'Craig cough*' and a 97% machine facilitated bleed though, so yeah the person may comment they feel the pedal is firm enough or adequate but might not be as good as a high tech machine at a garage can do.

But if someone had access to a pressurized air cylinder and one of these kits with the correct master cylinder seal etc then I believe could be confident in doing a good DIY job :)
 
So if I buy one you'd be tempted to use it? Small hire cost of course :D
 
Yeah definitely, ill get a quote from my garage to see how much they want for a full bleed if its expensive then at least backup is there :)

Any half decent complete units you have found? how much does a small cylinder of pressurised co2 cost though
 
hardc0re_tid said:
I've always start at the calipar which is furthest away from the master cyclinder and worked round to the closest.

Gti would be as follows

1. Rear right
2. Rear left
3. Front right
4. Front left
Click to expand...

Wouldnt it be

1. Rear Left
2. Rear Right
3. Front Left
4. Front Right

? Unless youve got a left hand drive, lol
 
gtabomber said:
Wouldnt it be

1. Rear Left
2. Rear Right
3. Front Left
4. Front Right

? Unless youve got a left hand drive, lol
Click to expand...

Yes. That is correct. Head is away with it tonight an I'm half asleep thinking about clutches and flywheels and how I can't afford to buy things :( but going to do so anyway :)
 
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/t...e-tools/brake-system-tools/?SEAVS820&0&t5_390

Funny thing is that item is same cost it would be for a garage to do it all around for you, without an air cylinder might still want a mate to keep pressure up with a mate pumping every now n then perhaps hard to keep an eye on pressure drop when under the car with a spanner lol

Does look good though 2.5 litres holding capacity... enough for a full royal flush ;)


I suppose it would pay itself back after one use. Could charge a small fee for someone to borrow the item, could even bring it to meets and do full bleeds for the whole aoc make a fair mint ;)
 
It's £59 on ebay, plus like £20 for universal adaptor. If you'd actually READ the discussion prior to the first post you saw you'd have seen the price mentioned.

Yeah exactly it would pay for itself if you need to do it more than once, and for me I would need it for a clutch bleed too (with future plans of sticking an LSD in I will need this).
 
my dads got a thing in the garage which you connect up to the brake fluid pot, loosen the nipple then connect another pipe to the end of a tyre valve and the air pressure bleeds the system through.

never tried it though...
 
That's true :lol:

I wonder if one of those electric tyre inflaters would do the trick? Set it high enough. My dad has one so I could make use of it? As long as it's constant use won't burn the motor out...
 
Thats what ive just borrowed

gunson.jpg


Might have low pressure but im thinking as long as there is pressure going through the pipework then no air can get sucked back in. My theory anyway. (edit: and RA's)

See how i get on tomorrow if the weather is decent. Hate working on the side of the road.

edit: Just seen this in the manual: "It is recommended that no more than 20 psi is used for bleeding."
 
Some info in the manual, might be helpful

Some cars brake systems are very difficult to bleed. A pressure bleeder such as this
invariably gives better results than a non-pressure method such as the conventional two
person method.
The following suggestions include ideas that have been suggested by brake system
manufacturers and other customers.
1. Make sure that the cylinders on all 4 wheels are bled.
2. Always use new brake fluid and do not re-use any brake fluid that has passed through the
system.
3. If the pressure bleeding alone does not work (i.e. the brake pedal remains 'spongy').
Try pressing the brake pedal while the pressure bleeding is in operation (i.e. carry out
pressure bleeding and conventional bleeding simultaneously).
4. Try bleeding the brakes while the car is tilted either forwards or backwards.
5. If the master cylinder has been removed or dismantled for any reason. it may, in the case
of certain cars (particularly Minis) be very difficult to bleed the brakes satisfactorily. In
this case it is necessary to bleed the master cylinder on its own, before fitting the pipes
to it. ensure that it is completely filled with fluid before connecting it to the rest of the
brake system.
6. If any component of the brake system (such as the master cylinder) has been dismantled,
it will be necessary to consider the possibility that the parts have 'been incorrectly
re-assembled or incorrect components have been fitted. Dismantle the part and
start again.
7. The recommended setting of pressure for the device (20 psi) is intended purely as a
guide. In some cases a lower pressure will give adequate flow, possible as low as 10 psi.
In other cases the full pressure of the spare tyre will be better. In some vehicles, a higher
pressure (over 10 psi) is better for bleeding the brakes of the rear wheels.
8. The device will not fit the reservoirs of some cars and indeed, some manufacturers have
been known to fit different types of reservoir to the same model of car. It will not fit
Nissan. Honda and some Toyota. There are several ways of overcoming this problem.
One way is the Multipurpose Cap which is held to the reservoir by means of a strap which
passes beneath the reservoir. Another method is to buy a spare cap and drill a 10mm
hole in it.


i dont like point 8.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom