yeh maybe,i'm wondering if those certain areas of the block don't cool as well as the rest and allow for slightly more thermal expansion and therefore create these highspots that polish slightly?!
Craigs New Datsun Sunny
- Thread starter craiGTi
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yeh maybe,i'm wondering if those certain areas of the block don't cool as well as the rest and allow for slightly more thermal expansion and therefore create these highspots that polish slightly?!
Its just to do with engine rotation, those are the thrust surfaces of the cylinder bore so they see more wear. Technically the major thrust surface is on exhaust side of the block, because the engine rotates clockwise, this is the side that recieves most wear as the piston rises up the bore. Remember the crank is converting a circular motion into a vertical up and down motion, so its not 'perfect'.
If you measured a cylinder bore, you'll find its biggest at the top and smallest nearest the bottom (its basically tapers down. Also, the measurements taken on the thrust surfaces will always be bigger than those taken parralel to the wrist pin.
These marks have nothing to do with burning oil, im just debating whether they are acceptable .
Having seen the pics of that primera block, it would point towards those vertical marks being acceptable. But you said you could get a finger nail to catch on yours, which i dont think is normal.
Edit: im confusing myself now, i dont know which side (exhaust or intake) is the major thrust surface, but the principal is the same. the bore will wear more on either of these sides compared to those parallel to the wirst pin.
i can only get my nail slighty to feel it for max of like 5mm in length, all the rest feels fine.
lol so sam's firmly on the side of the fresh hone and new rings. seems like the sensible thing while it's apart
anyone good at DIY honing?!
thing is, while sams linked article makes sense, it talks of the crosshatching being gone, runnin really lean or rich, when for my run in my plugs looked the good tan colour etc. if mine were that bad you'd think my bores would look fucked
the article also says that if it was running so lean or rich etc, all of the cylinder wall damage and cross hatching would be gone within like seconds of driving hard or a few hundred miles slowly. my cross hatching is still clearly visible.
the only thing i think i need to worry about is the tiny bit where i can get my fingernail in but it is only the one bore for a very small section, and i can only just feel it. i'm almost certain this happened when i first fitted the piston, maybe not lubed enough. When i fitted the pistons to the first block i noticed the same thing and hence used the 2nd block, this time it probably happened on first start up.
still tempted to replace rings and hone to be safe, but cba taking the block out. if i block off all the water and oil ways and the bottom of the bores i could diy hone it still in the bay!
or do the valve seals, put it back together and see - if the oil consumption is still high, then do the rings
lol so sam's firmly on the side of the fresh hone and new rings. seems like the sensible thing while it's apart
anyone good at DIY honing?!
thing is, while sams linked article makes sense, it talks of the crosshatching being gone, runnin really lean or rich, when for my run in my plugs looked the good tan colour etc. if mine were that bad you'd think my bores would look fucked
the article also says that if it was running so lean or rich etc, all of the cylinder wall damage and cross hatching would be gone within like seconds of driving hard or a few hundred miles slowly. my cross hatching is still clearly visible.
the only thing i think i need to worry about is the tiny bit where i can get my fingernail in but it is only the one bore for a very small section, and i can only just feel it. i'm almost certain this happened when i first fitted the piston, maybe not lubed enough. When i fitted the pistons to the first block i noticed the same thing and hence used the 2nd block, this time it probably happened on first start up.
still tempted to replace rings and hone to be safe, but cba taking the block out. if i block off all the water and oil ways and the bottom of the bores i could diy hone it still in the bay!
or do the valve seals, put it back together and see - if the oil consumption is still high, then do the rings
lol, i built it
think you jinxed yourself with your piss taking mate, sorry to say but "built badly wasted money" that should be your new sticker lol altho in all honestly it's not difficult to rebuild an engine so I'm very suprised your having issues . . . . .
I do hope it's all an easy fix as I know you could have alot of fun in this, and as a ve powerd motor owner I would like to see this completed.
firstly what about it's built badly? its been taken apart aand from the looks of it nothing is really wrong. the only possible thing wrong could be runnin in too long before tuning.
secondly, it's not easy to just rebuild an engine and get it right, quite what you'd know about it i'm unaware, but there's a fuck load to getting right.
thirdly it's not just being rebuilt, with all due respect this was a 12.5:1 build in a de headswap engine, so is pushing it beyond yours and a bit different to other ve builds in the UK before afaik. so the compression was always likely to possibly cause issues which by the looks of it it hasn't really anyway
fourthly, you said it mate -"as a ve powered motor OWNER" - wezz did the hard work on yours, he built it, he got the good 1/4 time, so why you felt the need to pipe up with built badly wasted money is beyond me. even if mine's not perfect, i had a go, it will be sorted and it's been fun and a learning curve.
and it was/is completed i just needed some shit hot fuel to map it properly.
Matey iv been working as a machanic for lexus for 7 years, so engines I know.
Not taking anythin away from Wezz, but all he did was rebuild an engine, I rebuild engines and gearboxs every day, it's childs play, if all it takes is to strip an engine to claim it as I built then I have done that as I had to strip the engine to fix the bad oil leak it had!
I'm taking my car further than were Wezz had it which is why I have took it of the road, it has changed since I got her and I will be getting a 13sec 1/4mile in it next year so Wezzs time will be forgotten.
End of the day, I have so much fun in my car, if I built it or not, it's mine everyone loves it and it's a beast, Wezz did an amazing job because he built one of the best almeras in the uk, it looks awesome and it's one of the only ve motors that is running right even tho it has standard rev limit and afr's are all over the shop, but still mades awesome power, hats of to Wezz!
Let's not be tooooooooo anal anymore, that comment wasn't really aimed at u craig, more to all the others on this site that have made this owners club go down hill
Ps vvl lmao
Not taking anythin away from Wezz, but all he did was rebuild an engine, I rebuild engines and gearboxs every day, it's childs play, if all it takes is to strip an engine to claim it as I built then I have done that as I had to strip the engine to fix the bad oil leak it had!
I'm taking my car further than were Wezz had it which is why I have took it of the road, it has changed since I got her and I will be getting a 13sec 1/4mile in it next year so Wezzs time will be forgotten.
End of the day, I have so much fun in my car, if I built it or not, it's mine everyone loves it and it's a beast, Wezz did an amazing job because he built one of the best almeras in the uk, it looks awesome and it's one of the only ve motors that is running right even tho it has standard rev limit and afr's are all over the shop, but still mades awesome power, hats of to Wezz!
Let's not be tooooooooo anal anymore, that comment wasn't really aimed at u craig, more to all the others on this site that have made this owners club go down hill
Ps vvl lmao
Let's not be tooooooooo anal anymore, that comment wasn't really aimed at u craig, more to all the others on this site that have made this owners club go down hill
well done, beautiful story i knew you were a mechanic etc, but the club hasn't gone down hill you just took some banter to heart. as did i when you said built badly, cos having only ever done a cam swap ro 2 before, building the whole thing, vvl headswap and all, was a big thing to me, not just childs play - as was the manual swap, and i'm glad i did it. it isn't badly done i don't think, it's not gone bang (yet
) it all looks pretty healthy and i think i just realised the pcv or valve seals are definitely the culpritwhats 'ps vvl lmao' supposed to mean?
excuse me boyo, i did a lot more on that car than just rebuild the engine, i did everything to that car apart from tune it and the LITTLE goodies you have fitted to it :whistling:
unk:craigy darling i dont need to say much as we have secret conversations away from here hehe
Bad valve stem seals would leak into the cumbustion chamber wouldn`t they?....id hope its a easy fix for you bud.
Craig is a Geography student, not exactly the average qualification for Spoon sports employees is it? It's epic what he's done, I wouldn't of liked to do a manual swap on one of these. 7 years of spanner wielding, i'm not surprised it's childs play to you Dan. This is a hobby to most of us, I install CCTV for a living. This club is far too small for a bitchfest.
true, i'll do them anyway while head's off, maybe pcv then - there's definitely a coating of oil and carbon on the intake runners that shouldn't be there, must be pcv i suppose. plus all this oil getting in the intake is only serving to lower my fuel octane and make det even worse
aw that made me feel better lol
nice head-er :wink:
Just one of them things. I've done lots of HG's where the Head Gasket wasn't what you'd think it would be with all the wee holes and stuff.
Hi Craig, hope you get the car sorted.
I was speaking with Greg at G spec and he told me the must do's for all vvl swaps.
Getting the following to avoid any headaches after the swap.
Got the following from Greg at G spec- ngk spark plugs for vvl-sr20ve,
jdm vvl- sr20ve exhaust manifold gasket,
Rear main seal,
Front crank seal
oil filter x 2
It could just be the need to replace the seals.
Hope nothing major, don't give up i am right behind you.
Good luck
I was speaking with Greg at G spec and he told me the must do's for all vvl swaps.
Getting the following to avoid any headaches after the swap.
Got the following from Greg at G spec- ngk spark plugs for vvl-sr20ve,
jdm vvl- sr20ve exhaust manifold gasket,
Rear main seal,
Front crank seal
oil filter x 2
It could just be the need to replace the seals.
Hope nothing major, don't give up i am right behind you.
Good luck
cheers nos
yeh i got all that stuff off greg too, tbh i think i have been a bit of an engine hypochondriac with this and ripped it all apart before really looking at what could be wrong.
there's definite signs of my pcv system and valve seals both not being great so i think for now i'm gonn change all those, slap it all back together and see what happens.
if i'd been losing loads of oil past the rings i think it'd have been smoking like a bitch which it wasn't. so we'll see.
ps. get one of the metal vvl exhaust gaskets
yeh i got all that stuff off greg too, tbh i think i have been a bit of an engine hypochondriac with this and ripped it all apart before really looking at what could be wrong.
there's definite signs of my pcv system and valve seals both not being great so i think for now i'm gonn change all those, slap it all back together and see what happens.
if i'd been losing loads of oil past the rings i think it'd have been smoking like a bitch which it wasn't. so we'll see.
ps. get one of the metal vvl exhaust gaskets