very ice build.
Definitely want a water/meth injection kit for my turbo
Definitely want a water/meth injection kit for my turbo
Greg from G-Spec sells both the Koyo and Mishi. I originally ordered the Koyo but till the date my Mishi was ready to be shipped (nearly 2 months back order wait) there was still no eta on the Koyo. Greg reckons the Mishi is pretty decent and likewise my engine builder Toby is also selling the Mishi and rates it.
If you are planning high boost (> 1.1 bar) upgrade the stock ignition first.
My dyno chart at 1.3 bar boost. Power is quoted at the wheels on regular 97 RON pump petrol. While engine is build for more than 2 bar the stock ignition can't keep up 
Meth injection only added 11ps due to ignition breakup.
Meth injection only added 11ps due to ignition breakup.
I am now using a Turbosmart FPR-800R fuel pressure regulator. The supposedly reputable Tomei Type S gave up after less than 150km. Everyone has a suspicion at this point ranging from faulty to fake. I bought mine at authentic price and from a supposedly reputable dealer.
That's a crazy length of time to wait with no eta.
I've contacted the local au distributor for koyo rads regarding buying one for my n16e.
Hopefully I'll get a reply tomorrow.
What options are you looking at with regards to ignition upgrades?
Only Koyo USA has an application for the Sentra but it is for a QR25 engine. The radiator is essentially the same however the inlet and outlets on the QR25 are 7mm larger (35mm) . I chopped off the inlet and outlets and rewelded back 28mm ones.
I am using an Autronic SM4 ecu so the optimal solution to me would be to convert to motorbike style capacitative discharge ignition (CDI) using the Autronic 500R or M&W. COPs will probably be some bike Denso pencil coils or the AEM. However I've heard plenty stories on the AEM frying itself.
Yeah, I'm an avid reader of your blog.
I'm aware that koyo/mishimoto only have radiators for the qr25 and the inlet/outlets are different.
I've got a local engineer who helps me with all my work. He done all my cooler piping and will be doing some machine work for my brake upgrade, along with a few other various bits and pieces I need done. ie. making some custom tow hooks for me.
I'm intrigued to know the differences between the s1 rods/pistons/head studs etc, as nissan fast seem to list different part numbers. I will be in the future looking to go down a similar path to you, by building the bottom end to handle big power.
I'm aware that koyo/mishimoto only have radiators for the qr25 and the inlet/outlets are different.
I've got a local engineer who helps me with all my work. He done all my cooler piping and will be doing some machine work for my brake upgrade, along with a few other various bits and pieces I need done. ie. making some custom tow hooks for me.
I'm intrigued to know the differences between the s1 rods/pistons/head studs etc, as nissan fast seem to list different part numbers. I will be in the future looking to go down a similar path to you, by building the bottom end to handle big power.
Thank you. Engine is capable of quite a bit more.
All S1 rods are the same and are also the same as GA16DE ones. Not too sure bout different S1 pistons but the newer Series 2 pistons have even less area between the top ring and piston crown. Helps with emission control but results in an even weaker piston. Look me up at [email protected] if you need a build bottom end in the future.
I will do. It's still a fair way off tho.
I'm currently the only qg in the world using uprev, and tbh I'm a little concerned as my tuner said that ignition was starting break down up top. I'm only pushing roughly 190whp, which is a far cry from your 300, before you ran into ignition issues.
I'm looking at upgrading to a larger gtx2860r turbo, using either a qr25de or vq35de electronic throttle body. I may revert to the s1 style intake manifold aswell, as it seems to be of a better design. Shorter runners with a larger plenum.
I'm currently the only qg in the world using uprev, and tbh I'm a little concerned as my tuner said that ignition was starting break down up top. I'm only pushing roughly 190whp, which is a far cry from your 300, before you ran into ignition issues.
I'm looking at upgrading to a larger gtx2860r turbo, using either a qr25de or vq35de electronic throttle body. I may revert to the s1 style intake manifold aswell, as it seems to be of a better design. Shorter runners with a larger plenum.
Can you believe I'm still on stock throttle body and intake manifold? I'll get to that when I port my cylinder head. Car mods are a bottomless pit 
Can you believe I'm still on stock throttle body and intake manifold? I'll get to that when I port my cylinder head. Car mods are a bottomless pit
Be grateful it's not the s2 qg18 intake manifold....
Cars are bottomless pits. I get a lot of grief here telling me to sell it and buy an evo. Which I could, but I've owned this car since it rolled off the showroom floor. So I won't part with it.
LOL! I get the same here everyday. There's no challenge hence no fun making Evos go fast
Not an issue on SR's
Hi Dave,
Spark plug might be the same as VQ but I doubt the coil over plugs (COP)s are the same between the QG and VQ. The SR folks have a pretty good write up on the various ignition COP upgrades granted this is for SR engine but a lot of it is applicable to the QG
http://www.sr20-forum.com/tuning/26028-cop-coil-plug-pencil-coils-will-fit-fwd-engine.html
Write up on inductive vs CDI (capacitative discharge ignition)
http://www.sr20-forum.com/information-library/26073-inductive-coil-tech-coil-plug-cop-tech-more.html
I'm on Denso IK22 (NGK heat range 7) Iridium Power plugs btw.
If one is anal on retaining the stock inductive set up T.M. Works Japan can upgrade the stock Hitachi COPs but cost is ridiculously expensive.