My New (to me) 'Mera

Finally got new wheels..

[clicky biggy]

17" Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 with Federal Supersteel 205/40/17 tyres.
This version of the wheels was a test run for the Matt Neil limited edition - they are exactly the same but don't have 'team dynamics racing' embossed on the rim and cost a hell of a lot less.
They weigh the same as my stock 15" steelies with 185/65/15 tyres (about 17.5kg).
Bought from Rochford Tyres - £500 inc tyres, delivery, standard and locking nuts.

Next step - lowering and new brake disks all round.
 
:respect: Now that looks abso-fecking-lutely excellent! :respect:

Especially with the black trim! :eek:

Maybe, if you colour-code the mirrors, get a set of chrome handles, add some black light brows, & a rear spoiler (the latter 2 items I just happen to have lying about ;) ), I`d say the exterior would be complete.
 
Glad you approve.

Definately going to colour code the mirrors at some point, not too keen on chromed handles but I know what you mean, needs a bit more white/chrome on the rear 2/3 of the car to balance all the white/chrome at the front, I like the plain headlamps more than the p2 ones but they are awfully white. I've got to clean-up/change my brakes at some point - I fancy big, shiny silver calipers and disks which may balance things out a bit.

Agreed on light brows (generally look just stuck-on) and spoiler (never needed on a 1.5).
 
Thanks, I've budgeted for one decent mod per month - although next month's mod will be taken up with MOT, 55,000 mile service and Tax.
 
the standard ecu doesnot "learn" at all an ecu is an electronicaly controled module unit based on the theory that it knows the various peramiters for sensers and knows how to convert the readings into useable data. The ECU does not learn, hence ECU re-mapping. Donot know where you picked that up from :confused:

ie. A variable resistor, the ecu registers how much current is flowing through, which it then uses that data to calculate how open or closed it should be. Fitting a bigger resistor the ECU wouln't learn that it had new paramiters. An ECU does what its told, its nowhere near as smart as you would think! You have to set the parameters for everything its doesnt "learn or pick them up itself"
 
I picked it up from various forums but the advice I was given is not as clear as this hence the confusion over whether or not I needed to do it..
 
I would also not recommend resetting your ecu to clear fault codes. Should be done with a proper diagnostics machine like bosch kts or autodiagnose. If you clear the codes and the codes pop back up there is a fault. If you donot understand a code (they are mainly in numbers) use a program like autodata which lists all fault codes. Irrelivant but mtie help someone sumwere. My garage charges 35quid to plug in a diagnostic machine regardless of wether we find a code or not.....
 
It's also possible to get diagnostic codes flashed out by the malfunction indicator ('check engine' light on dash) and you can then find the diagnostic codes online.
I did this today to find out why my check engine light was on to help decide whether the car was safe to drive for a day or two until I got it into a garage. It isn't always useful (if multiple codes are flashed out you can't tell whether they are 1st trip or permenant fault codes but it can save the aforementioned £35)

I'm due a 55k service so will book that, wheel balancing, tracking and susp. alignment check/adjustment and a fix for the faulty swirl valve solenoid circuit (according to the fault code) tomorrow. It's a pain to fork-out for all that just after x-mas but hopefully that will take care of all my problems for a while and I can get on with more modding next month. Luckily my local garage are great and can do the lot for me in a day, just drop off the car on the way to work and pick-up on the way home.
 
Well, still struggling with the swirl control valve fault.

My local garage (who are great) had a poke about but told me I was best take it to a Nissan dealer, they didn;t charge me for the two hours poking about they did.

Couple of weeks ago I booked it into the dealer and they changed the swirl control solenoid then ordered a replacement one-way valve (the original seems fine), tried to blame my K&N induction kit, generally dicked me about for a few days then charged me 260 quid but it's still showing the same fault.

My guess is an electrical problem. I see a long weekend with a multi-tester on the cards.

On the plus side the weather was great today so I gave it a total valeting inside and out (I mean total, even got the wheels off to do calipers, hubs and arches) and it's gleaming!

Even fitted some gay blue lights in the footwells because I was bored - now I need a head unit that matches them.


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Given that my only real moan about the 1.5 N16 is the power it'd have to be a 2.0 :D

That said, I'm also thinking about just getting a more powerful N16 P2 using my P1 as PX.
I'm likely to be stuck with whatever I get for a good three or four years and worry a bit about keeping a 10+ year-old N15 rolling.

I wouldn't worry about keeping an N15 running I have 1999 GTi and well to be frank if you look after it properly its fairly bullet proof last of the real Nissan before the french invaded!

Only thing I don't like is the fuel consumption if you like to use the revs!

only reason I haven't changed is the bloody thing just keeps going!
 
To be honest if I could get credit (which I can't) I'd grab the first decent GTi I found.

Saving is a bugger, especially when I'm forking out cash hand-over-fist on this one (obscure engine fault and I can't resist mods).

I'm seriously considering just saying 'to hell with it', concentrating on tiding up the N16 for sale and getting a nice GTi rather than spending any more on mods for the N16.

Thing is that my N16 has some 'quirks' that I don't mind but would likely cost as much to fix as I'd get for the car once they were fixed.

Maybe I should just give up beer for six months, buy and N15 and see if anyone will give me a crate of newcastle brown and a bottle of Jack D for the N16 :)
 
Well, still haven't fixed the swirl control valve circuit problem and the car's pretty-much unsellable until that's fixed so - more mods this month.

Now thinking about getting an 1.8 P1 N16 in good nick when I can sell this one (or it falls apart) and just transferring the mods over.

Painted the manky calipers black last weekend and got Eibach springs and 'standard' EBC disks ordered which should arrive this week.

Will post pics when that's all done.

Hopefully Koni shocks or custom cat-back next month in time for Fast and Modded.
 
Just got new discs and pads fitted and a 30mm drop courtesy of Eibach 'Pro' springs.

Before and After (click to enlarge)..




It's not a hugely obvious drop in the pics but is definately subtly noticeable in person. I guess the springs also have to settle a bit, though.
The handling is so much better, not much roll at all now. Not too harsh either except on really rough roads. Well worth the £££s.

Painted my calipers a couple of weeks ago too..



Next things on the list are a custom cat-back and a tidy-up of all the chips and scratches in the paintwork. After that I'll see what can be done to the engine.
 
It's more obvious in the enlarged pics.

With a couple of people in the car it drops a few centemeters more (till the rear wheels are flush with the arches) but it's only a 30mm drop anyway; I'd have gone for the 45mm Sport springs but need to be able to stuff the car with people and camping kit without it bottoming-out and the roads I drive are infested with speed bumps anyway. Slamming a six-year-old 1.5 N16 to the ground would probably look silly in any case so I'm trying to be a bit more subtle.

The old springs were 6 years so are likely to have sagged a little and the new ones have just been fitted so need to settle (I guess).
 
Thanks,

Yeah, I kept the stock dampers for now as I can't afford new ones just yet.
I'll be getting Koni adjustable dampers when the current ones need replaced.
 
I wimped-out and got my local garage to do it along with my discs and pads and replacing the slightly rusted rear brake piping all at the same time. I got them to check tracking and alignment afterwards too (it needs done when changing to lower springs).

I could have done a lot of it myself but don't have time to faff about and so many bolts are seized-up on my 6-year-old car I thought I'd let them loosen everything off for me :)

Cost a bloody fortune, though.
 
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