My PH2 GTI

is the bush longer on one side than the other? thats what its like on the daiyama's? maybe spin it round, mine did rub briefly so I took a file to the offending piece made it compliant.
 
Whoa there. Nipping this in the bud right now.

I always made this clear my test set was on the N16 platform.

I was advised by e-mail that the bush would sort the N15 problem...HOWEVER...no-one offered themselves up as test buyers for the N15 so going on the advice of the e-mail it was assumed this was sorted.

I've very disappointed it's not.
 
Kev@KSport said:
Will look into the issue, sorry.

We did test the fix on SteveC's care.
Click to expand...

Hi,

I got an answer back from the factory.
The factory assured us that the fix was applied to all sentra/pulsar/almera kits.

However it seems they changed the fix, it was an offset bush, but they changed to a redesigned bottom mount.

Can I ask you to see if it only rubs when the car is jacked up, or as you said you could hear a noise that the coilover does rub in normal driving.

Any issues will be sorted, thanks.

We have already revised the kit, and it was no problem to use a off-set bushing,
but our engineering team advised if we used a off-set bushing, we had concerns that some customer will install to the wrong side.
Therefore a different solution was researched. So we lengthen the eyelet (the aluminium parts) and that will also remove the chance of having a rubbing issue and we taken the measurements.
We saw that in the pictures the car is jacked up to take the pictures, that's why there is a rubbing problems.
But if you put the car on the ground, there will be no problem.
Click to expand...
 
the strut rubs when the car is on the floor and jacked up kev,

thanks for getting in touch btw :)

kurt ive read that thread already, there is a little footnote on their website about it too
 
As this was a specific fix that most were aware of on here maybe reverting back to the off-set bushing will be safe Kev? As we know this works on the N16s too? and yes great sign that you're still in touch :) (better than the daiyama coilover fiasco!)
 
Hey up Wezz

Just in the middle of fitting mine and have just seen i can't fit the front brace bar back on as the pressed int bolt on the coilover isn't long enough.
Did you fit your brace bar back on and if so how? If not how much difference has that made to the handling??
 
The inner top mount stud? Yes it can be a problem, a lot of people just hacksaw the bit off the inner hole on the strut brace itself, or some have just fixed it on the 2 outer studs.
 
i'm sure someone knocked the stud out of the original shocks and knocked it into the coilover in place of the short one:eek: Bit drastic but would work. Or as corbs says some people just used 2 outer ones.
The daiyamas came with the stud long enough!:P
 
Corbs said:
The inner top mount stud? Yes it can be a problem, a lot of people just hacksaw the bit off the inner hole on the strut brace itself, or some have just fixed it on the 2 outer studs.
Click to expand...


yeah thats the chappy :) . If I hacksaw off bottom of the spacer on the brace, I don't see how it will sit flush? I have tried to knock the stud out of the old units to put them in the coilover, but god dam they are in there feckin hard:lol: Also worried about taking the stud out of the coilover and buggering it up :(

Mmm what to do:confused:
 
sorry for hijacking your thread Wezz :P

Right got them all fitted and sorted out the strut brace problem.
Just wanted to ask what would be a good height to set them at? Atm i have set them at 32cm from center of the wheel to bottom of the arch, but i'm slightly breaking the 2 finger rule. What height did you set your at Wezz out of interest?

Bit of a novice at this so this may seem like a stupid question, The car seems quite bouncey, now is that down to the damping being to soft or the springs being set to hard?
 
i didnt measure mine really, i set mine up and measured the gap between the threads between the spring lock nut andthe bottom mount lock nut, cant remember what it is really, i just fiddled about with them (4 times) until it looked right.

are yours knocking at the back? plus are they rubbing like mine were?

i havent sorted the strut brace problem yet either lol, think im going to hacksaw the bottom of the brace off, didnt fancy having them held on with 2 studs
 
sunnysrule said:
i didnt measure mine really, i set mine up and measured the gap between the threads between the spring lock nut andthe bottom mount lock nut, cant remember what it is really, i just fiddled about with them (4 times) until it looked right.

are yours knocking at the back? plus are they rubbing like mine were?

i havent sorted the strut brace problem yet either lol, think im going to hacksaw the bottom of the brace off, didnt fancy having them held on with 2 studs
Click to expand...

No, no knocking on the back of mine, there seem to be enough clearance on the rear bracket. I did look out for it though after seeing your picture.
What i did with my strut bar was to loosen the bolt on the bar so the two end plates could move freely then got a small grinder and cut off the spacer from the underside of the strut brace. Lowered the car on flat ground re-fitted the strut brace then re-tighted the bolts. Fits nice and flush :)

I think 32cm from the center of the wheel to the bottom (center) of the arch is a tad to low :O just come back from a spin and ground the crossmember when i hit a dip in the road. might raise it another 20mm on monday.
Looked at my old struts and then measuring up the new ones it looks like the car has dropped about 90mm :O :D
Not quite sure how to get the dampening and spring rate set right, seems to be a bit on the bouncey side? I have done 18 click on the rear (which is smack bang in the middle as there are 36 clicks in total from soft to hard) and 12 click on the front from soft.

Where were you getting the rubbing? on the rear?
 
yep thats what i was going to do.

yeh mine was scraping too but now its up a bit and its fine, although it does stil scrape but only on big speed bumps and big potholes (which im being more aware of.

stiffness wise i have the rears 10 clicks from hardest and the fronts 20 clicks from hardest
 
might stiffen up the damping a bit then and a tad on the springs as well. God damit lol mean stripping out the rear bloody seats again, get pee off with have to take out 100's of 10mm bolts :D

Lovin the look of your car. Put me in mind of getting mine sprayed silver next year after its been acid dipped. Red round my way (farmer cow shit land) is a right arse to keep clean.
 
edk said:
As this was a specific fix that most were aware of on here maybe reverting back to the off-set bushing will be safe Kev? As we know this works on the N16s too? and yes great sign that you're still in touch :) (better than the daiyama coilover fiasco!)
Click to expand...

I've been discussing this with the factory.
I've also mentioned the need for a longer stud on the topomount - however some pictures would be nice if anyone has one? [email protected]

I was passed a link to this thread by somebody, if it wasnt for that I would have missed it.

PLEASE - If you have any questions, comments, or feedback then get in touch with me via PM, mail (above) or phone the office on 01274 683633.
 
Cameron said:
might stiffen up the damping a bit then and a tad on the springs as well. God damit lol mean stripping out the rear bloody seats again, get pee off with have to take out 100's of 10mm bolts :D
Click to expand...

leave the stiffener panels out then mate, they don't really do much - especially with strut brace anyway. then you'll always have easy access to rear damping adjuster;)
 
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