Turbo this turbo that.

In the region how much would these parts cost........??

How much would such a conversion cost altogeather? including getting these parts fitted?
 
About £3k after mapping I reckon with current exchange rates. But I wouldn't even bother doing a DET without low comp pistons...as the whole point of Turbo's is Boost, and the more the better, being limited to 10 psi defeats the whole point imo.
 
Completely disagree kurt. The Fucus RS 500 comes out the factory running 0.5 bar or 7 psi and that feels like a quick car. A low boost set up in a fwd car is a much better option.
 
I agree with the low boost/drivability combo on a fwd car even though a high comp turbo engine will give crazy torque. But keeping the 10:1 pistons in means your always gonna be limited to low boost and when you long for more power you'll have to start again.

I'd go to a lower C/R and keep low boost to start on, with the chance to up the boost safely when needs be. just my 2p though.
 
The agreed limit of a fwd car is around 240bhp before it gets stupid. Easily achievable with a setup similar to mine.

If you develop a thirst for more power, develop a thirst for a different drivetrain at the same time ;)
 
Simcard said:
This is what you need Plus a few other bits but this is prettmy much it.

1. Nissport Adapters for water cooling the turbo. They Plum into Top and bottom hose and use braided lines, Looks the business and is very reliable.
5. Gauges 9boost guage.. oil pressure guage..) anyone who says get a narrowband AFR guage to tune from need shooting.. you need a proper wideband lambda sensor and readout to tune properly with..
6. Dasktek Piggyback ECU or greddy e-manage (ultimate can remove your AFM with a MAP sensor
7. oil pressure switch and T-piece
8. Manual Boost controller
10. 200sx Injectors
14. Sard FPR
17. Autobahn666 intercooler kit
18 GtiR manifold and GTiR t28 turbo
Click to expand...

youll also need a drill and tap fitting and pipe for the oil return..

i just broke your list down to the basic form of what you would need to get it in and running at 10psi you could change your clutch if you want to but its not gona stop the car working leaving it standard..
 
Yeah i just copied that list from my other thread, although you could argue that a couple of other bits would help when tubo'n your DE.

The oil return is a standard part from a GTIR incase anyone wanted to know, there's a part number on here somewhere.

1. Nissport Adapters £30
5. Gauges boost guage.. oil pressure guage..) anyone who says get a narrowband AFR guage to tune from need shooting.. you need a proper wideband lambda sensor and readout to tune properly with.. £100
6. Dasktek Piggyback ECU or greddy e-manage (ultimate can remove your AFM with a MAP sensor £200 + tune costs
7. oil pressure switch and T-piece £30?
8. Manual Boost controller [COLOR="Red"]£50
10. 200sx Injectors [/COLOR]£80
14. Sard FPR £80 - £100
17. Autobahn666 intercooler kit £300 inc special samco bend for our gti's
18 GtiR manifold and GTiR t28 turbo £200 - £300
19 Oil + water braided lines £20 - £40 from pirtek


I think that a better fuel pump and clutch are essential but if you just want the car to run up and down the drive then maybe not.

The prices are around what i've paid/should've paid, you can get cheaper but i didn't so luck of the draw.
Total around £1100
 
yeah i was meaning the bit for the block.. the turbo has a drain on it you need to drill and tap the block and screw in a barbed fitment for the oil drain pipe to attatch to..

it really depends on how much you can source stuff for but like you id put a price of around 2K for everything screwed together and finished nicely..

id always go for the highest compresion possible on any car as it just makes it so much more drivable.. stick a metal head gasget on there and i bet you could easy take a bar on standard pistons with a safe map. keeping it 10:1 will just make it so much more drivable bottom end and will make a nice fat gob of tourque with this setup the car will feel great.. responsive powerfull infact just how nissan should have built it from factory.

PS if you want cams to help it on its way and give abit more power i have 20sx cams for sale with fitting kit :P
 
ah jumped into this thread a tad late, so most of what needs doing or considering has already been mentioned. Except the swirl pot that ensures that even at quarter tank you don't get the air sucked in creating a lean mix and end up having to drive below 4000rpm til you get to the next petrol station or worst detonation before then.

The agreed limit of a fwd car is around 240bhp before it gets stupid. Easily achievable with a setup similar to mine.

If you develop a thirst for more power, develop a thirst for a different drive-train at the same time
Click to expand...

So I have a stupid car then? lol. You need consider how much power the clutch/gearbox can take. The stock P10 input shaft has a 18mm diameter whereas mine is 24mm - so it can take a much larger load. Not factoring this into your equation, expect to go through many clutches. Again all depending how much power you're aiming for.

Lastly, don't forget the parts in between like lube/oils bolts bushes. They're the little costs that add up along with labor, mapping and better brakes to stop you! Might wanna consider an LSD to help plant that power down with a more predictable behaviour.
 
not much more to add, except would personaly upgrade the suspension aswell
 
Raceworx said:
youll also need a drill and tap fitting and pipe for the oil return..

i just broke your list down to the basic form of what you would need to get it in and running at 10psi you could change your clutch if you want to but its not gona stop the car working leaving it standard..
Click to expand...

Sold.
 
Simcard said:
The agreed limit of a fwd car is around 240bhp before it gets stupid. Easily achievable with a setup similar to mine.

If you develop a thirst for more power, develop a thirst for a different drivetrain at the same time ;)
Click to expand...


I can't see the point of having a FWD car with anything above 270 horse unless you love buying tyres.

I would be using the car for what it gets used for now (everything) So wet weather handling has to be tight. I think that 230 horse would be perfect for the GTi, just look at what the VZR N1 is like.

I are'nt looking for 0-60 performance, i am looking for 40-140, punch to pass.

Seems to me that for a road car the best option is the simplest,

OEM+ TURBO KIT.
 
As far as im aware, im the only one flying about in a turbo'd GTI atm..

2 points though..

The figure of around 1200quid is about right...

10psi will not give you 200.. more like 240bhp and similar torque..

....without changing internals..to get over the compression problem.. get a thicker headgasket and use a large front mounted intercooler.. with good air flow..
 
kristian said:
....without changing internals..to get over the compression problem.. get a thicker headgasket and use a large front mounted intercooler.. with good air flow..
Click to expand...

But going to a thicker HG will lower the comp, so it won't be a 10:1 turbo engine.

What im saying is, a standard engine just turbo'd. As changing the HG you may aswell change the pistons while your at it.
 
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