Turbo this turbo that.

kristian said:
As far as im aware, im the only one flying about in a turbo'd GTI atm..

.
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Sorry guys.. I mean turbo'd GTI as opposed to engine swapped GTI.. ( GTIR/VVL etc etc.. )
..I cudda made that a bit clearer..



I thought the other turbo assisted lumps were GTIR swaps..

GTi kurt said:
But going to a thicker HG will lower the comp, so it won't be a 10:1 turbo engine.

What im saying is, a standard engine just turbo'd. As changing the HG you may aswell change the pistons while your at it.
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Your correct about lowering the comp.. but 'may aswell' swap the pistons???1/.. :roll: dude....

The head off and skimmed with a cometic and set of arp's will see a reliable 300.. quick weekend job..

More than this and you need engine out, machining full strip etc etc etc..

However 300 is more than enough in 95% of peoples eyes..

.. Im generally one of those ' more the merrier' when it comes to bhp.. but 300 is enough in an n15..
 
TheSam said:
what 190? none have ever been dyno'd at their quoted figure...





Have you not seen Leigh's or Scott's or even Ragt's?
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Standard VZR package looks well handy for daily duties to me so a low boost GTi in my eyes would be sweet, i love it with the power its got (virt standard) :eek: is that allowed?!
above quote by me (inahole)

He might not have!
 
All this is pretty inconsequential, you can boost the standard lump to 10psi with a 10:1 compresion ratio, get it tuned right it will last a good long time depending on driver and how you look after it..

This is probably the reason people dont end up doing it, they see us lot bickering about crap that doesn't matter and they must think damn if they can't decide it must be hard.. I'll go buy a car thats easy to mess with..

Just get the bits as described, spend a weekend putting it together, take it to get mapped the following weekend and have some fun..
 
kristian said:
Your correct about lowering the comp.. but 'may aswell' swap the pistons???1/.. :roll: dude....
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Oh all of 1 hour to change them, with the engine in. It would take longer to put the shitty ARP studs in.

I don't know what your C/R is, but aren't you mapping with a SAFC?

Raceworx said:
All this is pretty inconsequential, you can boost the standard lump to 10psi with a 10:1 compresion ratio, get it tuned right it will last a good long time depending on driver and how you look after it..

This is probably the reason people dont end up doing it, they see us lot bickering about crap that doesn't matter and they must think damn if they can't decide it must be hard.. I'll go buy a car thats easy to mess with..

Just get the bits as described, spend a weekend putting it together, take it to get mapped the following weekend and have some fun..
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Please show me some threads to this, have you done it? I don't really know turbo engines but I'd like to see this.

Cheers
 
I`ve seen a few dyno graphs of stock RR engines ( bottom end ) with 400-500whp. Its a tough engine.

ARP head studs are overrated ( even though i use them ) ...... OE bolts are better designed. There`s a flaw with ARPs..... the head can lift above 400whp or alot of boost.
 
Yeh stock bottom end, but not stock C/R surely?....I've just been flicking through SR20forum and seen afew people at 10-12psi at 10:1. So that answered my question to Raceworx.

Once your boosted if you can hold your urge for power to 10psi, that's fine. But I couldn't.
 
Wow, how long will it last though? Obvisously this thread isn't about people building 500bhp engines...but it's good to get some information onto this forum instead of what colour EBC pads to buy.
 
I'd say so yes, that kind of HP timing and fuelling is the most important. That's the problem over here, all the tuners will put conservative maps on it. I didn't read that thread properley but I bet he's on standalone. If it's a JWT...I give up now.
 
cor blimey :)
Just get the bits as described, spend a weekend putting it together, take it to get mapped the following weekend and have some fun..
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ive basically sat back written down all the parts that makes the gtir run, then bolt it all together, aint quite a weekend job tho, well i suppose it could be, there youll have to go over it with a fine tooth comb to make sure you have ALL the little bits needed,
What im saying is, a standard engine just turbo'd. As changing the HG you may aswell change the pistons while your at it.
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this is what im doing if your gonna turbo your sr20de engine you may as well do it once and properly, with over bored and forged internals yes you can go well over the 300bhp mark, but id rather run it at the 300bhp mark super safe !!!!
before you know it youll be needed new valve stem seals etc :)
 
id agree about the mapping, no matter what performance parts you have, if your mapping its not correct then your fucked :)
as i found out with my cams, :)
looks like ill be going back to dastek in edinburgh for my remap :)
the stock top end and bottom ends are very strong, all up to a point tho :)
rowdy gti
ARP head studs are overrated ( even though i use them ) ...... OE bolts are better designed. There`s a flaw with ARPs..... the head can lift above 400whp or alot of boost.
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so in general would you recommend these?
:)
 
GTi kurt said:
Yeh stock bottom end, but not stock C/R surely?....I've just been flicking through SR20forum and seen afew people at 10-12psi at 10:1. So that answered my question to Raceworx.

Once your boosted if you can hold your urge for power to 10psi, that's fine. But I couldn't.
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If you built the thing to be pinsharp on top of that lowly 10psi (seems inviting to me compared to standard GTi) I think it would be a long while getting bored of it!
 
Just read alot on sr20forum about a design flaw with the ARPs. If i were boosting i`d just use some new OE bolts.
 
^ i suppose if their (oem) good enough for a 3-400 bhp gtir they would be good for a 300bhp sr20de+t almera :)
cheers rowdy :)
will they still be good enough considering a 1.2mm h/gasket?
:)
 
the GTi-R uses slightly different head studs anyway.. but 200sx's use the same bolts.. for up to 500BHP id use standards.. youd be pushing it though at that anything over and id talk to mazworks about there 1/2 inch headstud conversion.. which will hold and has held up to 1300BHP without headlift..

JP with the G20 is now pushing 527WHP and that thing aint just a dyno queen it gets used on the traks quite alot not drags wither full track work..

its all in the mapping yes a good conservetive map at 10psi will net you a solid low 200WHP and equivalent tourqe its the tourqe that will make the car feel quick.. with a GT28RS youd be on boost at 2-3K and itll pull like a train compaired to standard! if kristians made 240BHP and 240lbft with a thicker head gasget with a standard sized one leaving compresion standard you can expect to pic up more midrange tourque..
 
I've already spoke to Jez at Horsham Developments about mapping.. He is confident about mapping our ECU's and I'd trust him more than some unknown place definitely.
Just a shame I've gotta drive it down there turbo'd on standard Injectors and MAF with no mapping :(
Joe
 
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