BeardedViper N16

I'd say go for the blow over mate personally. I don't know if it's right wrong or cheap etc but with no offence meant at all to any 1.8 P2 owners but I much prefer the look of the P1's. I notice that the P2's don't have any
bump strips on the front which I'm not a fan of and the fogs on the P1's being more aggressive as they're seperate but it may well be just me thinking so but that's possibly why people swap the P1 rears onto onto P2's but the P2 headlights onto the P1's as it just looks better. A nice bit of mix and match never hurt anyone but I'd say all day that if you modify a P1 it'll look more aggressive than a modified P2

As I said no offence meant but that's just my opinion :)
 
I do like the look of the phase 1's, as you say the bump strips give it more personality, but I also really like the front bumper on the phase 2 with the round fog lights and the grill.

If there are endless problems with this Phase 1 I may ship on and save for a better Phase 1 or a Phase 2 I really don't know. Ideally I just want to keep this one because I love the car it's just I can see me spending out hundreds before it looks and drives to a semi-decent standard.

I am really tempted to fit the phase 2 lights all round but again sourcing and sorting the wiring could be an issue. The lady that owner the car before me has damaged the front end too so the bar behind the bumper needs replacing either way. The MOT is due on the 4th of May so I'm already looking at a big bill. Did I mention the cross member is rusted to f*ck too :( I'm guessing I'll HAVE to either replace or get it rubbed down and sprayed up? There aren't any holes in it just lots of rust.
 
Yeah, corss members are the weak spots, mines rusted too, shouldn't worry about that for now, set up priorities what you gonna fix first, I'd start with oil problems and smoke. Buying second hand is always like that, there's a part of lottery where you just can't know for sure
 
The cross member shouldnt fail the MOT, it generally goes down as an advisory. Pattern replacements can be had for the around £40 off ebay and fitting (if you have a welder) takes around 5 hours.
 
yeah as liam says they are just an advisory as they aren't structural. i'll be replacing mine in the very near future so i'll put up a howto to show its not a difficult task :)

-- sent from my slider --
 
Cheers Liam and yeah that's be great happyharry - Wouldn't mind having a crack at doing it myself :)

Went to a garage I trust before to asses the condition of the new 'mera. Informed the mechanics about all of said problems and we went through them one by one.

The smoke coming out of the back of the exhaust is white and seems to be condensation more than smoke. Their guess is that because it has been sat for a while that water has accumilated in the system and is just getting burned out. They reckon after driving it for a week or two it should calm down or completely stop. They said they could smell a slight hint of oil in the gases but they could tell the cat was working because you can smell it. - You guys live with these cars so if this sounds wrong let me know!

The front bar is bent behind the bumper - Not an MOT fail and nothing to worry about.

The engine seems to move a lot - Suspected engine mount, will be closer inspected tomorrow

Squeak when car is moved off or jerked about - Suspected engine mount again although possibly the clutch?

Headlight aims are both ridiculous - Need adjusting due to the lovely lady that owned it before me damaging the front end. I'm going to sort this but I dont know if I'm going to have to fit a whole new bumper and front bar (not sure what it is called but it holds the headlights).

Seized callipers - The two rear callipers were seized, both rear discs were knakered, both rear pads and both front pads were shot. £272 fitted with a full engine inspection and a check to see if the squeaky engine mount can be located and fixed. Also the head light aim will be getting sorted.

It's the best I can do for now considering I have zero free time to work on the car during the days which is disappointing!

Just an update all :)
 
Looks nice, every car has its issues and need maintaining. The cross member cant fail an mot as its not classified as a load bearing point, it just gets recorded as a dangerous advisory. I had mine sanded, plated and then painted it and it was never really good enough. Last month I had a new one welded in which cost me £40 to buy and then £120 labour. Refurbing standard wheels dark looks good (thats what mine was). You could always buy the lowering springs I have going ;)
 
Ahh cool! £160 doesn't sound to steep to have the strength back in the front. If it wont fail the MOT then that puts me at ease for now. The brakes are spot on now after having all of the work done. No more binding and the car is performing a lot better.

I managed to get some pictures in an empty car park tonight - they highlight the need for me to drop the 'mera haha. I would buy your's but I've heard better reviews on the apex ones and they can be picked up for £10 more than what you're asking mate ;)

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My favourite to date : -
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What Harry said lol.

I love night shots :-) I might have to go get some of mine now lol
 
No worries but IMO and I'll probably get ripped apart from this but lower it then get some 17's ASAP mate the 16's still look lost to me personally.

Edk's ok as he's on coilies etc he can put the car down to suit but on just springs I'd say 17's all day on a N16 as the gap as standard is massive compared to the N15's :)
 
I would like to get some 17's but they would be a few months down the line, I wouldn't want to have to buy cheap and make the cars appearance suffer as a result!

The standard alloys look good enough for now (albeit a bit kurbed) but I'll focus on getting its through its MOT and then lowering it. She is a work in progress ;)
 
Standard Twist alloys you've got there are really nice. So I'd leave them on until it's the last thing to do ;). As when I was first getting into modding my N16 I jumped in too soon and spent loads of some Rota Grids. This set me back a bit and meant things like coilovers, strut brace, bushes and engine stuff came later. I wish I had done the latter first.
 
Figured I'd post an update on the 1.8

Had the brakes sorted now and it stops amazingly well! Did not realise how good standard brakes could be

Unfortunately I am burning oil which is shite! Been quoted £500 for an engine rebuild providing I supply the timing chain kit which I dont have an issue with. At the same time I'm going to get the clutch changed and get that engine mount changed too!

Looking at around £900 I reckon all in which to me seems a good price. After that the car will be mechanically sound and then I can start on the cosmetics. When it gets took to pieces I'm hoping to get in the bay with engine degreaser and then I'll be able to rip all the crap out. Any recommendations on painting up the engine while it's off the car?
 
Don't know if you've thought about it or can or whatnot but an SR20 swap would be cheaper. Liam did a full How To.

Otherwise though that does seem a really reasonable price :)
 
I would love to do that conversion Ed but unfortunately due to my age and claims against me The insurance would just cripple me :(

It is in the pipeline for next year or the year after though, bring on being 21!
 
Or you could do what I said about in my PM mate? I'm 25 it doesn't get much damned cheaper :(
 
Age makes no difference now. Apparently the change is now 30 anyway :(
 
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