craiGTi's ph2 GTi

Craig -

Ive looked at the JWT website ( Cheers MARK for the link ) which has installation instructions for the Adjustable CAM sprokets.. When we first installed these the most obvious way it was wrong, and this is why it wouldn't turn over by hand..

Its a case of having ther 2# notch with the sprocket with the 2# dot on the chain.. The letter stand for Retarding and the number stand for advancing... This is what we discussed as the most probable way to fit them, but being unsure we set them as standard..

If you wanted to re-set them as discussed with them at 2# I can insrtruct you in detail in this or you can come up and we can double check everything INC cam timing..and get them set up. No cost... Well maybe a KFC

Heres a few pics of the day.. and some of the work..

Oh.. and the mayonaise which was of massive quantity.

Car in workshop ( Gotta love the fisheye lense.. my new toy. )

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Mayo.. There was a conciderable amount of water in the cam cover too.. I didn't let Craig re-use this. I supplied him with a spare..


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Problem with Headgasket.. 2 and 3 were purging.


dsc00108zo8.jpg


All done and torqued up nice and firm..

Ready for the new head..with JWT's

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Cheers Craig..
 
kristian said:
Craig -

Ive looked at the JWT website ( Cheers MARK for the link ) which has installation instructions for the Adjustable CAM sprokets.. When we first installed these the most obvious way it was wrong, and this is why it wouldn't turn over by hand..

Its a case of having ther 2# notch with the sprocket with the 2# dot on the chain.. The letter stand for Retarding and the number stand for advancing... This is what we discussed as the most probable way to fit them, but being unsure we set them as standard..

If you wanted to re-set them as discussed with them at 2# I can insrtruct you in detail in this or you can come up and we can double check everything INC cam timing..and get them set up. No cost... Well maybe a KFC
Click to expand...


Aha, so cam time ain't out then - didn't think it could be, wasn't doubting you mate! :)

Does changing the intake to 2# require much messin with chain/tensioner - cos i'm sure i'd balls that up! I'll see how it goes, at the mo i'm trying to get ignition timing sorted - on the way home it seemed to pull well, but it's hesitant at times. Could that be the ignition timing retarded that's causing that?

If all's well, don't worry i won't pester you again! But if i come for that other work we discussed (sshh ;) ) I'll buy you as a massive kfc and get the beers in - soz bout that bud, my bad.

cheers mate
 
Well i've borrowed a timing light today and checked it twice and adjusted but it just doesn't seem right...

I followed the guide from here and it definitely seemed to lock into change mode, but even with the dizzy at it's most advanced position the pin only lined up with the 3rd timing mark - 5 degrees?! :confused:

No wonder it doesn't seem to pull quite right, especially at high revs.

If i moved the dizzy back towards middle the engine just cut out. What else can affect timing like that? Just can't get it advanced enough.


I know i've been harping on about this cam timing, but surely a tooth out would account for roughly that amount of ignition timing out, no?
 
Dizzy is in the correct way.. and sprockets are on correct point on the Chain, and cams obviously.

Worse case scenario is that the crank sproket has skipped a tooth with the head goin off and on... with all the work..

If this is the case, the sprokets on the cams will want retarding a tooth or advanceing a tooth.. in order to bring everything back into line..

I can do this within 20 mins buddy.. If you fancied a drive up, alternatively doing this yourself isn;t a big job..:

10mm on a small ratchet for Cam cover and tensioner
and a large one for Sproket bolts.. 24mm I think.. then use a substantial driver to lock the sprockets..

If you did it along side an oil change you will have filter off anyway. If you wanted me to come to you I could.. Im heading over to sheffield at som point in the next 5 days to collect some stuff and thats halfway there anyway..

Would take me 20 mins pal..
 
cool, well i'd prob come up to be honest, cos i could do with comin to fetch those speakers anyway.

However, gettin there may be a problem at the mo. A couple of times in last 2 days i noticed my ABS light flash, and the bogged a little. I looked uner the bonnet and a battery connection was loose so tightened it this morning and thought was OK.

Just went out though and my ABS light started flashing, then airbag, then no power - car died.

Had a thought bout that alternator adjuster bracket i over tightened, then we slackened off, looked at it and the bolt holding it on was loose with the long diagonal bolt free to move around. But the belt didn't really feel loose.

Could that be enough to lose charge or could there be a connection that got knocked etc. How much mmovement should be in the belt? Any other ideas?

does the angle of that belt adjusting bolt matter, only it has a slot to move in doesn't it.

If i can sort this quick, i'll pop up to you and get those speakers as well.

cheers mate
 
belt wise, i set them so you can push it down about a 4 - 6mm inbetween the pullys
 
This the bracket you bolted back on or the tension I took up with the top bolt..?

If there is little or no tension between the belts they will slip and your car will run off the batterly and eventually cut out.. ABS and ignitions lights would possibly come on..

If your up for the speakers I will gladly double check over the timing and get the bracket looked at...

Ive printed off the Exact stock timing position That ive got down from previous builds which enable you to time up the chain without a timing light.. I can time up to stock exactly, and from there We will do set the timing for the inlet cam as you wish.. thats the best bet.

Just gimme a time your gunna be about so i know im there..
 
kristian said:
This the bracket you bolted back on or the tension I took up with the top bolt..?

If there is little or no tension between the belts they will slip and your car will run off the batterly and eventually cut out.. ABS and ignitions lights would possibly come on..

If your up for the speakers I will gladly double check over the timing and get the bracket looked at...

Ive printed off the Exact stock timing position That ive got down from previous builds which enable you to time up the chain without a timing light.. I can time up to stock exactly, and from there We will do set the timing for the inlet cam as you wish.. thats the best bet.

Just gimme a time your gunna be about so i know im there..
Click to expand...


well the bracket was loose,and there was only one bolt in it. I'm sure i put 2 in - obviously not tight though :rolleyes: But the actual tensioner bolt was loose as well, just free to move etc. surely theres a nut to tighten on to that when you've got the correct tension?

At the same time though, the belt didn't feel that loose, i'll go out and have a play now.

I can test alternator with a multi meter can't i? just wouldn't wanna start driving it to manc and it die on the M6 or something!! lol

i'll txt ya bout when, have to check with speaker guy etc
 
well had a look in daylight, looks like there's something missing on the tensioner, a nut or something. But i don't know what and where -

mera-1.jpg


the bolt just winds through the bracket without tightening it, also having checked the belt again, there's a fair bit of movement.

so what should go on that bolt and where?!

cheers
 
Blue bolt is adjuster and Red bolt is the Locking bolt.

The red one should be tightened when the alternator is in the correct place and the belt is night and tight..

mera1ur2.jpg
 
Right well I was up near Manchester the other day so popped in to see Kristian - turns out the exhaust cam had skipped a tooth so within 20 mins that was all sorted. :D

Then i set my ignition timing forward from the 3 degrees it was on to 17, double :D

Jesus H. jumping christ it pulls better! At times i wasn't sure how much but accelarate away from a familiar bend or overtake someone and it's sooo much quicker. Actually feels fairly 'rapid' now if you know what i mean - and starts to spin in 2nd in dry at times. Although tyres are screwed :rolleyes:

Next thing I can't wait for cat back and decat, which surely is strangling it still a bit at the mo, v excited.

However, not just that - project weight loss has started :cool: When i read Rowdy's thread and he mentioned sound deadening i couldn't believe it was that heavy - but jesus after seeing it and trying to remove some, fook me....

P2160160.jpg


That in the front footwell is just some of the stuff already removed, i'll put up pics when i get round to getting all of it out, but it weights shit loads. Not much louder without either.

Spare wheel and tools gone in place of tyre weld! except for long journeys, and air con pump and bracket still to be removed. Not going whole hog as i want it to look standard inside, but i figure i can lose 60-70kg without looking any different.

Gonna maybe leave carpet out too and spray floor pan matt black :cool: with just mats in there.

Also v relieved to find only 1 patch of surface rust in floor pan, at seat belt anchorage point so that will be plated before MOT. ;)
 
Well! :(

I'm gonna have to stop this or i may go through as many engines and stuff as corbs! :P

Unfortunately boys, after head gasket was done, the other day i noticed the temp needle creep up to 3/4. I panicked but after talking to Kristian we thought a cooling/circulating problem was responsible what with all the mayo that had been floating around.

So i flushed rad through and got rid of stat for a bit just in case, and drove home 30 miles last night. The needle crept up once or twice but fell again straight away.

Then half a mile from home a loss of power, stopped and popped bonnet - steam everywhere!! :eek: :(

wouldn't start, did a compression test this morning - the results were (from cylinder 1) : 6,4,4,2.
:eek: When you turned the starter over you could see gases escaping out the front of the block!

Having spoken to Kristian today, we agree there must be something majorly a miss with the engine after the last one going - so the cheapest/easiest/safest/quickest way round it may just be to swap engines. :rolleyes:

Luckily Kristian has a spare p11 engine he'll sell me and fit, so yet again team k-kustom to the rescue! Big thanks Kristian :D

After that i'll strip my old engine, have it checked for cracked block and other things. If it's ok, make it a little project to re-build it. Prob be an idea so i have a spare - clearly i have a nice touch with sr20's :lol:

If not bin it. Shame though this time, this may have put a nice-ish idea i was formulating on the scrap heap money wise.

I'll update with k-kustom rescue mission mk2! ;)
 
Thats nearly exactly the same thing as what happened to my primera GT engine. Wierd. Except my bearings were knackered afterwards.
 
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