Fiona's New N15...

well after doing tons of reading on all the forums that I could find with decent VE info on, US and the Kiwi ones, majority say to get the best peak power go for 3" and if you are worried about the noise levels, then drop to the safer bet of a 2.5" one...or if you can find a decent zorst builder, they should be able to do a 3" catback which ain't that loud...

after all of that I personally chose to go for the 3" manderal bent system, its pretty good sound wise as well, still gotta get it dynoed though
 
aye would agree with him re the cam switch points, you've got them more nearer where a lot of peeps with standard 20ve cams have..you wanna go a bit higher up the rev range..
 
Just read the 180 figure and nothing else. 180 is fine, thats what mine pulled ( the most powerful DE he`d ever tuned ) That dyno reads low. A dynojet dyno or others would be that much in whp. Dont worry.
 
The scorpion catback is barely bigger than standard. That`ll be a big bottle neck.

This engine wont suddenly gain 30hp by taking it to a different tuner, anyone that thinks that is seriously off their trolley. Ed spent a few hours with mine and once the fueling was sorted ( a little rich for safety ) he couldn`t get any more by adjusting the timing map.
 
you made me very happy with those posts rowdy, and i also agree that people thinkin these low surrey rr figures are down to poor mappin from jez or ed are mad. a few horses may be gained by a shit hot tune but not 30hp :lol: ........
 
Shouldn't a proper tuner pick-up if sensor's aren't functioning properly, I remember when I got my Peugeot 206 mapped at another car tuning company... he said if my lamda sensor's & few others were bad Id have to get new ones before he got the car mapped


Bosch sensor here dude:

Sourced via Rowdy's previous recommendation IRC N15 GTi doesn't exist on the drop-down menu so need one from a Primera
http://www.lambdasensor.com/main/bosch/price.pl?item=0258003622
 
Should a heavily remapped ECU pass a MOT emissions test?.....not something that crossed my mind.

You cant compare dyno figures unless you`re on the same dyno, on the same day ( been there done that! )....even the same brand dyno. They vary, drastically. A tuner can tinker with the dyno figures to make them look better.
 
yeh or worse ian, like when i took the GTiR on rollers 4 years ago when the big ends died, he came out and told me it had 39whp and something is drastically wrong with it, however when i drove it home it still pulled as hard as it did on the way there, he obviously messed with the settings to try and cover himself
 
a tuner can mess with stuff between runs for the same car on the same day. im just saying is al

ie barrrrrRRRGHHH 8200rpm - 160bhp (uncorrected) nice power that lad.
im sorry this is a 190 t sport mate..............
*next run within mintues. barrrrrRRRGHHH 8200rpm 180bhp happy now?...... lol

^ true account
 
must be conincidental since mapping. if it had been overfuelling badly or anything the afrs would be all over and rich as fook. hmmm
 
Lambda was high but after i swapped the the sensor is was just borderline and the bar showed green.

Its the CO that is high, The limit shows 0.20, and it was up to 2.30 - Its not just out its out by a lot.

I wonder if there could be a fault in the TPS?
 
ignore the lambda, any increase in exhaust size from stock will make the lambda read high. that CO is fucking sky high, are you're injectors ok? did you have them ultrasonically cleaned? If the CO is that high it means it's not burning right so it's getting too much fuel or not burning it properly. If it's running lean you're HC would be high and CO would be low
 
If the co and hc are both high then it could be the cat, if everything looks like its burning right then just go somewhere that'll look the other way with the emissions
 
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