G's Vzr N1

18c4284b6c186a0ae34485ffd556d859.jpg


No 4 fine as expected
 
There isn't much room for error with the compression they run. The valve contact isn't much of an issue anyway worst case scenario is a couple of valves which can still be got and if unlucky it may have cracked the guides also pennys and would need to be changed while refurbing the head on a motor with that many miles anyway.

Would say all in all looks pretty good. 2 litre crank and rods. Full bearing set, Full gasket set, head bolts, new oil pump, water pump, valve guides, chain and guides, get the pistons cut down a little and the notch cut out of them and get the head overhauled and re-shimmed.

Oh yeah and all new coolant hoses for the back of the block!
 
Can you still get the N1 exhaust valves? They are different to normal VE exhaust valves...
 
Sam said:
Can you still get the N1 exhaust valves? They are different to normal VE exhaust valves...
Click to expand...
you 100% on that, was speaking to Brendan, reckons they are the same as normal VE, just different part nos?



also anyone know of anywhere good to get starter reconditioned and injectors checked out...
 
Correct was about to say they are sodium filled. Different numbers on the top too. I was told they were thinner on the stem to aid the flow of air into the chamber... Just goes to show the amount of R&D put into these engines.

Part numbers are
N1 Intake 13201-1N520
N1 Exhaust 13202-1N520

When I last looked for them they were available. But that was 2010 they were even available on nengun at the time. Might be a different story now alright.
 
This be my list of bits to replace...
Engine Gasket Set
Head Bolts
N1 Piston Rings
Full bearing set 20v
N1 Chain
Chain guides
Tensioner
Knock Sensor
coolant hoses
Thermostat
Oil pump
Water pump
valve guides
Valves...

Best to replace all the valves? Or just the ones that are damaged?
 
I've already got a 20v block coming with pistons, rods, crank for the price just got it complete...as no idea how much rods snd crank on their own would be
 
Crank and rods wouldn't be big money anyway. Only gave about 150 for mine I think.

Do the 20v pistons give a higher CR than the 20ve pistons and less than the N1's. Would be idea if it did. N1 pistons work but the cr is a little too high and 20ve compression sucks. Actually N1 pistons wouldn't work for you as all with the amount of deck height gone off the N1 head. I suppose you can level it out with the headgasket thickness anyway.

Is it an 8cw crank?
 
n15... said:
Crank and rods wouldn't be big money anyway. Only gave about 150 for mine I think.

Do the 20v pistons give a higher CR than the 20ve pistons and less than the N1's. Would be idea if it did. N1 pistons work but the cr is a little too high and 20ve compression sucks.

Is it an 8cw crank?
Click to expand...

Crank is 8cw....

the CR if I remember correctly with 20V pistons will be around 12.1 and with N1 pistons modded 12.5.1

the block with all the internals I mentioned as $350 usd + shipping so can't really complain at that..could still use the block if need be or keep it as a spare
 
ragt20 said:
This be my list of bits to replace...
Engine Gasket Set
Head Bolts
N1 Piston Rings
Full bearing set 20v
N1 Chain
Chain guides
Tensioner
Knock Sensor
coolant hoses
Thermostat
Oil pump
Water pump
valve guides
Valves...

Best to replace all the valves? Or just the ones that are damaged?
Click to expand...


does anyone have part no's for all above, save me going through fast....lol
 
As for the valve's just bring the head to a machine shop they will be able to look at the seats/valve and tell you what needs replacing. They could be fine. Just bring it somewhere very reputable.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom