My N15 5-door GTi Build...

Its lovely as a daily at the moment, now its raised up, cruising on the motorway is great, the noise and harsh engine mounts don't really bother me, as they add to the fun drive :)
But like Ed said, I wouldn't like to be driving around daily boosted up, like trying to pull out if there's a small gap in the traffic or something and you end up boosting and smoking hell outta the tyres LOL.
Its fast enough as it is at the moment TBH :)
Joe
 
I REALLY what to see what VNT could do for a petrol engined car. Stick a GT2256V on there Joe. You'd get N/A linear power, just more of it and with it not being huge it won't be uncontrollable power, more safe power with next to zero lag because of size and VNT ;) Such s shame Dale didnt go in for it. Only down side is management is more tricky. You'd need the Dastek or something similar as a standard boost controller doesnt work so well on VNT.

That would WIN.
 
I have never really understood the benefits of VNT.. May be worth looking into, although I've already got nearly all the necessary parts to turbo mine to anywhere up to 300bhp, all I'm missing is Downpipe, mapping and a few minor fittings.
So I wouldn't wanna waste more money buying VNT orientated bits.
My dad and uncle keep bugging me to fit nitrous.. But I don't know much about it, or what it involves mapping wise..
Joe
 
Basically, VNT reduces lag as it uses variable vanes to push more exhaust onto the turbine which is used at lower RPM to quickly spool up the turbo. The naves then control boost thereafter.

Fair enough if you've already got the bits. Still would love someone to do it though ;)
 
Like you said.. Its the management side of things that would put me off trying to incorporate VNT..
Sounds like a good idea to make it more driveable low down.
Anyone know much about the mapping side of Nitrous?
Joe
 
id knock it down to about 12 degrees, there or ther abouts. depends on what level you shot into it :)

50 shot - 0 - 1 degree timing retard
75 shot - 2 degree timing retard
100 shot - 3 degree timing retard

so the SR20 is meant to be at 15 +/- 2 degrees so 12 would be safe
 
you'd need a progressive controller to feed in though, if you go F&F style you may as well drive it head first into a brick wall.
 
oi love god! dont NEED a controller, it would make it more "reliable" if you had one though, only really need one if you go for 100 shot and over
 
noooooooo, as long as its a wet kit though yeh.

its sprayed in just before the TB usually or you could have a direct port one like dave had which has 4 jets (one for each cylinder)
 
could do yeh, or have a switch on the TB actuator (thing what cable attaches to) so it only activates at WOT, but you have a switch on the dash which activates it as well
 
A few Pictures from last weekend at shakeys:
Queing up:
que.jpg

Manaro VXR burned off the line!:
Monaroburned.jpg

Midway down the strip:
midway.jpg

And a Video.. Cheers David!

Joe
 
sunnysrule said:
oi love god! dont NEED a controller, it would make it more "reliable" if you had one though, only really need one if you go for 100 shot and over
Click to expand...

just be carefull you dont blow the welds on the intake, dont want green washers flying everywhere and your passenger side floorpan falling out.
 
Get a Wizards of NOS wet kit...single nozzle.

Whack in the jets for a 100 shot.

Set the timing on the dizzy to 12 degrees. (Best to mark it as it will be easier to set back to normal)

Rig up the switch to only activate at WOT.

HOLD ON TIGHT!
 
DBull said:
Get a Wizards of NOS wet kit...single nozzle.

Whack in the jets for a 100 shot.

Set the timing on the dizzy to 12 degrees. (Best to mark it as it will be easier to set back to normal)

Rig up the switch to only activate at WOT.

HOLD ON TIGHT!
Click to expand...

Sounds like a plan ha ha
 
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