My QG18DE powered pulsar Q

Almerasleeper said:
Nice car mate, have you done anything with the exhaust & filter side of things yet ? Or are you leaving it standard until the turbo conversion's done ? I'm going for a supercharger with the 1.8, so I'd like an LSD myself. Let us know how you get on dude. :cool:
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No exhaust or anything really.

i've fitted an aftermarket K&N panel filter. but no cold air induction or anything.
dont really see the point.

the LSD is a garanteed fit. the n14/15 boys over here, are starting to import sr20 bellhousings for the 70 series box and fitting 32a diffs into them.

however, no one has actually fitted one to the car etc.

i'm thinking of now getting the turbo build done with the stock clutch etc, that way it'll be done.

i wont have problems with stock clutch for a little while yet.

car has only hit 40k on the clock.
 
Same mileage & air filter as mine. I tried the 57i kit & it was rubbish - very noisy & wouldn't pull past 5k rpm ! But the LSD is of big interest to me so I'll be watching closely :cool:
 
Extreme said:
Have you actually purchased from them at all?

sent them an email yesterday morning, still awaiting a reply, but its the weekend, so i guess it'll be sometime next week before i get a reply, if at all.
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my front head lights are made from depo. The body shop grabbed hold of threm for me.
 
OK.

its been a while since i last made a post on AOC. reason being, circumstances had changed, and due to another car accident, i kinda lost interest in the car for a bit, and focused on purchasing a house. Unfortunately the HID headlights were totally destroyed :(

i've since moved into the house, done a few renovations, car has been repaired to an acceptable level, but the front end will be going through some more changes, as it needs respraying. thanks dodgy panel beaters...

I have been having alot of noises coming from the K-sport coilovers lately, so on saturday, im going to a mates work, to make use of their hoist and tools, to pull the shocks out and work out whats going on. I'll also be installing some Urethane control arm bushes, sway bar bushes, rear control arm bushes, and hopefully rear sway bar if it arrives in time from the supplier(highly doubt it).

Since the accident last december, i'm now having issues with the air con, which im going to get looked at again tomorrow afternoon, and hopefully i can put it back on the smash repairers, and claim it through them(yes the front end accident was fairly major.

once i've got all the suspension etc sorted out, i'll be focusing more on the power side of things, and starting to prepare for the turbo conversion again. the first things i'll be doing, are saving for an LSD, and clutch. It will be done properly the first time. I'm not a fan of constantly having the car in pieces, so it may take me 6 months or so, to get the car 100% done.

Dave.
 
Weclome back Dave. Hope you were ok after the accident mate.

Keep us updated I'd really like to know how well the bushes work all over, and also what rear sway bar are you getting? Taking your time to do it properly has got to be better than a rush job. Going to be excellent when it's finished by the sounds of it :D
 
I'll be making use of the whiteline sway bar(Part No: BNR28), as it is locally produced and a good quality item. It is made for the sedan, but after talking to whiteline, and doing a lil bit of research, the reason its not listed for the hatch, is due to the rear beams being different.

I plan on either modifying the stock U-bolts, or getting something fabricated. I should have the swaybar on monday arvo, tuesday morning, so it should be on the car come tuesday.
 
I wondered if you were doing that as I knew about the different beam sizes for the sedan. Would be great if Whiteline could actually make one for the hatch :rolleyes:. Especially as it's not a big effort to supply different U bolts. Let us know how it goes + pictures of install and fitted please :).
 
Ok.

Pulled out the front coilovers today, pulled them apart, hit them with a wire brush to kill a little surface rust that has built up on them. then cleaned them up a bit, and sprayed with silicon spray. my reason for doing this, is i thought it'd fix my clunking issue in the front end(been happening since first installed coilovers). it seems to have improved a bit, but not quiet gone.

Installed front control arm bushes, and swaybar grommet link bushes aswell. Spent more than half the day trying to press out the old bushes, as i was having a few issues with using the damn press.

the rear wont be getting the same treatment tho. I'll have access to the workshop again in a fortnight(not tuesday), and the plan for that day, is to remove rear beam, stick it in the ute, down to the suspension shop to press out the stock bushes, and press new ones in. While thats happening, i'll take out the rear coilovers, drill some holes in the rear bash plates, so i can adjust the rear damper from inside the boot, and install the swaybar, after we get the beam back in place.
 
Extreme said:
Ok. Pulled out the front coilovers today, pulled them apart, hit them with a wire brush to kill a little surface rust that has built up on them. then cleaned them up a bit, and sprayed with silicon spray. my reason for doing this, is i thought it'd fix my clunking issue in the front end(been happening since first installed coilovers). it seems to have improved a bit, but not quiet gone. Installed front control arm bushes, and swaybar grommet link bushes aswell. Spent more than half the day trying to press out the old bushes, as i was having a few issues with using the damn press. the rear wont be getting the same treatment tho. I'll have access to the workshop again in a fortnight(not tuesday), and the plan for that day, is to remove rear beam, stick it in the ute, down to the suspension shop to press out the stock bushes, and press new ones in. While thats happening, i'll take out the rear coilovers, drill some holes in the rear bash plates, so i can adjust the rear damper from inside the boot, and install the swaybar, after we get the beam back in place.
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i swear i read somewhere that the noise caused from you coilovers is because its too low, try adjusting them a tad and see what happens then, please correct me if im wrong guys :)
 
in all seriousness, have a look at the pics from my car i posted last year. height has only been raised a bit since then.

the car isnt sitting low at all. what i reckon the noise is, i dont think the spring is seated properly.
 
ok, had another day in the workshop today.

got a few things sorted.

front noise issues - resolved.
rear swaybar - installed.
rear bash plates cut, so damper can be adjust without taking struts out - left side complete, right still to go.
lowered car. the guard is about 1 inch off the 18inch rim now.

as I've lowered the car a shitload more(probably dropped it by about 25-40mm more than what it was, i'm having an issue with scrubbing in the rear.
 
Just wondering what its scrubbing against on the back? I have lowered my car 30-50/60mm and I got 215/40/17 tires and the only scrubbing I am getting is the front passenger wheel lining. Its not a major issue as the wheels are +45 offset and I got 5mm spacers on the front to clear the caliper. I am having no issues on the back with scrubbing that I know of so I was wondering what was scrubbing.

Darren
 
i'm running 225/40-18s on the rear.

its scrubbing on the guard, the wheels i have are +42s, so sit out a bit more than your +45s. i've literally got less than an inch between the guard and the rim, at both the front and rear. because its scrubbing, i'll get the guards rolled, and see how i go. if its still scrubbing, i'll just raise the car up a bit.

also, the whiteline rear sway bar, was installed with quiet ease. it required a little modification to fit, but it was nothing major. i'll try get some pics of it, and do a write up, sometime during the week. Already had a scare with the reduced understeer. I can honestly say, it was the best $220 spent on my car to date. The car handles like shit stains on a matress now.
 
Extreme said:
i'm running 225/40-18s on the rear.

its scrubbing on the guard, the wheels i have are +42s, so sit out a bit more than your +45s. i've literally got less than an inch between the guard and the rim, at both the front and rear. because its scrubbing, i'll get the guards rolled, and see how i go. if its still scrubbing, i'll just raise the car up a bit.
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I fitted 215/45/17's before and it was rubbing quite badly with my front arch. I had to run 1x 215/45/17 for a day as I had a blow out. I am guessing your alloys are 7.5j/8J as well.
anyway good luck with getting the arches sorted.

Darren
 
I got sick of cleaning the garage out and converting it to a spray booth, so I figured i'd take some new photo's of my N16 Pulsar.

As such here they are. Not alot has changed on the car for quite some time:

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The next steps on the car will be to move the battery into the boot. Replace the worn Drivers side engine mount and fill them all with flexane 94. I'll be replacing the Cowl top as mine is warped from being in the sun.

They should be done either before it goes back into the panel beaters to have the radiator support, bonnet and LHS front guard replaced under the insurance claim.

Once I get the car back, i'm in 2 minds wether i want to have the LSD fitted, or doing the Ed grill mod. I'll work that out once i get the car back.
 
I got bored today on my day off and doing household chores just wasnt going to happen today.

Went outside and thought stuff it, i'll relocate my battery into the boot. Thinking it was only going to take a couple of hours I went ahead and started it.

Worked out where I wanted to locate the battery, what wiring and associated other parts I needed, I set out to the local battery shop first.

I picked up a new battery tray, and battery hold down bracket. Also picked up some new battery terminals. Then I went down to the local Car electrical store and picked up some 2ga crimp connectors, fuse holder, black conduit. (I already had alot of 2ga wire in the car for a stereo so this made it alot easier.

I wanted to put the battery on the left hand side of the boot. But doing this was going to be difficult and make access to the spare wheel a right pain in the backside so I decided the best place to put it, would be the right hand side behind the tail light.

I used some spare roofing tek screws I had laying about to secure the battery tray in place. unbolted the battery, and fitted it to the boot. I fitted a 150 amp fuse right next to the battery on the 2ga cable. I grounded the wire in a nearby spare bolt hole. an M7 bolt was used here.(sanded back to bare metal for proper contact)

In the engine bay, I removed the part of the ground wire that runs from the chasis to the (-) battery terminal. I then removed the small wire that runs from the fusebox to the (+) terminal. I then reconnected the starter motor and 2ga run from the boot to the fusebox. Wrapped the cable in conduit, used some cable ties etc to hold the cable in place.

I had to cut part of the boot carpet away.

Attached are some photo's of the finished result(please excuse the quality as its dark here and I'm using my iphone):

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That looks neat mate, well done :) I could do with doing this myself if only to help weight distribution.
 
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