N16 SR20DE

nice work bud, that'll keep her protected for a good while to come! i'll be doing much the same to mine soon enough, and thankfully I have a set (or two) of 17"s to play with so no more real wheel temptation for me, I think :LOL:
 
17's for summer 16's for winter simples...

Sealing work looks spot on, can I ask full process you followed for reference? I assuming it was wire brush, rust converter, zinc primer then waxoyl sealant etc?


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Ed you know what you said about 17's on yours mate and you know mine worked on yours. You need to get it done too lol. 16's just look s bit OEM sized for my liking there's not enough of a visual impact.

The car looks fantastic though :D
 
Lol nothing OEM about my 16s! But yeah if the design isn't great then they can look poor. But then I do like an OEM+ look. My grey one was in the end but doing more with the black.

17s would be good but is need them to come with at least a 215/45 profile which would mean raising the car 5mm. Tradeoff that I'm not sure which way to go on. I'm spoilt though now anyway and they'd have to be light tyte JDM. Expensive.

-phone-
 
Almera tino hubs then some enkei RP-F1's Work Emotions or RP01's mate. If I had the know how to do it i'd happily do it on mine. You know it makes sense :-P
 
All the info and parts for a 5 stud conversion are on B15u.com :)

I would like too as its easier for brakes as well as wheel selection. But not cheap plus just for that on top of new wheels, tyres and probably brakes. Also although it'll be easier to find 5x114.3 pcd wheels, you'll have a new problem of finding ones that aren't too wide! Or have offset that just won't work on the n16.

-phone-
 
That does sound quite similar actually! It tries but theres a cat in at the moment. Get it decatted and it'll be a different story!

Rich, I used a wire brush drill attachment and flap disc on the grinder to rub it all back, didnt use any rust convertor as the zinc primer claims to do it. (there wasnt really any rust, just flakey bits). Left the primer to dry whilst I filled the chassis rails, sills and cross member with cavity wax (I must have put about half a litre in the front crossmember!!) then waxoyl underseal on the floor plan and down the sills. If you're going to do it, put a massive sheet down on the floor to catch the overspray and make sure you dont block/kink the extension tube for the cavity wax!!!!
 
So far I've had the inside of the doors, the sills, the boot panels with Waxoyl substitute. The car stinks of it and went through almost 5ltrs, next is to get back under the car and grind off any loose surface rust and will look to use the zinc primer or jellonite depending on if I have enough left over, then apply the underseal to everything.

Once I've got that done I'll start on GTT following the same process it's gonna be a busy summer...


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Ive got just enough left over to do the doors and boot lid. 5ltrs??? You been drinking it? I used 1.75ltr of cavity wax and 2 litres of waxoyl underseal.
 
Goose said:
Ive got just enough left over to do the doors and boot lid. 5ltrs??? You been drinking it? I used 1.75ltr of cavity wax and 2 litres of waxoyl underseal.
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Bodyshop guy did it for me he filled the sills etc with the waxoyl stuff he had car raised and filled the sills i that way and then the same again the following day to ensure the product filled all relevant areas. I know he said loads worked it's way out but was his opinion best way to get it everywhere it needed to be.

He filled the inner wheel arches and every inner panel with the stuff so I guess that's why he used so much?

I've got under seal so hopefully there will be not rot anywhere on this shell as front crossmember was stone guarded last year and is looking in great condition.


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I'm sure you'll both know this but for others reading I thought I'd add that when doing doors and bootlids after a few days clear out the drainage holes as they will most likely be sealed with wax/cavity sealant
 
happyharrysco1 said:
I'm sure you'll both know this but for others reading I thought I'd add that when doing doors and bootlids after a few days clear out the drainage holes as they will most likely be sealed with wax/cavity sealant
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That's the plan as mine is under shelter it will be done as last thing you will want is water getting stuck in there no matter how much treatment is in there to prevent rust etc.


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Hadnt thought of that actually Phil. Top tip :)

The smell of dinitrol is unmaskable tho. Ive got 3 magic trees in there and it still over powers :(
 
That's one nice ride you have there goose. Unlucky about the exhaust though, mean snapped off my back box flange then turnt out i needed a new back box as well as that had a hole in it :-(
 
Goose said:
Hadnt thought of that actually Phil. Top tip :)

The smell of dinitrol is unmaskable tho. Ive got 3 magic trees in there and it still over powers :(
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It's grim smelling stuff have had mine done for three weeks + and it still smells when I get it back will have the windows open for a few weeks to try and shift the smell!


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Well only got car in October and exhaust failed in Feb maybe January. least to say it wasn't looked after by previous owner. noticed the exhaust was loud with my dad on day so took the car into college as im doin vehicle engineering and found out there was a hole and the connecting flange. seemed ok though but after taking it for a long drive week later noticed it was alot louder so brought it in again and it was completely off the flange so got new centre pipe to find out the back box also had a hole in it. Shoulda bought a sports back box instead though as will be changing the afermarket one soon hopefully
 
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