Red Nemesis Dog: Pulsar Autech

Fettled a pic out of boredom
autechfettled.jpg
 
The basics:
Autech tuned Pulsar, manufactured in 1996, imported to the UK in 2006
High port engine, advanced timing, sports tuned ecu, high lift sodium filled valves etc.
Totally 'standard' Autech, no modifications. 63,000 miles on the clock, no rust
According to Wikipedia:
''Autech Version SR20DE — 1998 cc DOHC multi-point EFI. Only Sold locally in Japan. Was used in Serie and Lucino Japanese Variants (576 produced total). Featured compression ratio of 11.5:1, 264 duration @ 11.4 mm lift camshafts, unique valve springs, DET vales, portwork, piston oil squirters and unique pistons to achieve high compression. Power is stated at 180 bhp/130 kW @ flywheel. 191 nm@4800rpm.'' (Happy for anyone to correct/improve on this info')

Today: Racing Line Halifax for Diagnostic Power Run on Dyno Dynamics setup.

Blue lines are before Matt got under the bonnet for a bit of tweaking on the timing and the red lines are the final runs.
Before: Power at wheels = 123.7 HP, Power at Flywheel = 150.8 HP
After: Power at wheels = 141.4 HP, Power at Flywheel = 171.2 HP (The best £80 I've ever spent on a car!!!)

2baselineatflywheel.jpg


Note the lag followed by a peak at 3100 rpm before adjustment (blue) and the linear power delivery after adjustment (red)

Heres the final run. Matt reckons there may be a wee bit of cam chain stretch, that could get it higher, but not really worth the effort just yet to replace it.

2tunedatflywheel.jpg


Other feedback was that the ecu, electronic etc. were working perfectly. There is hardly any vacuum effect even at 7500 rpm (dotted red line below) and so the standard air box can't really be improved on (unless other mods done to the car) and the air fuel ratio (red line) was 'perfect' according to Matt, and consistent throughout the revs.

2airfuelratioandpressure.jpg


Needless to say, I can't praise Racing Line enough. He really knows his stuff and has been tuning cars for 20 years. Highly recommended. Obviously there was nothing major to change, but if I'd gone to a normal garage it'd have taken them months I am sure.

As for the drive - even better than before without that lag and I'm getting around 20% more HP through all the revs (i.e. was 55 and is now 70; was 105 and is now 127 etc.)

Just for the record Racing Lines telephone number is 01422 347744
 
awsome solid figures! i bet it feels alot better theres alot to be said for good old fashioned knowledge not everyone needs a laptop and some cables to make stuff go fast :D
 
The cars in the garage are also worth a look - loads of evo's and a mixed bag of very mean machines including a nissan sunny gti all tuned up and ready to go
 
awsome solid figures! i bet it feels alot better theres alot to be said for good old fashioned knowledge not everyone needs a laptop and some cables to make stuff go fast :D
yep, feels really tight and responsive, with that extra little push into the back of the seat on acceleration
 
Woah nice one, was this all down to altering the timming?

Can I ask.. how much did the Autech cost you to buy ?

I was lucky I guess - all on the timing - but he set the timing on the basis of the rolling road readouts and listening to the engine (he wears this uber stethoscope so he can listen directly to the engine from the drivers seat) to get it to an optimum, rather than setting it on a specific number - so based on experience not the workshop manual
How much did I pay? - money and fair words and the willingness to take a risk...
 
good job, :)

similar to fossil fuels when we went to PE, he adjusted his timing, and gained an extra 10+ bhp at the wheels, :)

the stethoscope it used to listen for pinking/detonation if that happens its advanced to much :) id run it on shell Vpower now john ;)
with it being advanced etc, may run a bit better too overall.
 
vpower or tesco 99, though I have been using normal shell petrol in mine and havnt noticed any difference....
 
do you know a figure for what the timing was set too then?

No - we ran out of time to go back and take a reading - but it is an interesting question and Matts approach opened my eyes to 'tuning'. He absolutely set it on the numbers from the rolling road (on screen) and by listening to the engine with the stethoscope - he just turned it back when the engine sound got too 'sparkley' (his words not mine) and as you can see from the final run and the air fuel ratio it comes out as a linear power delivery and consistent mix across all the revs. He took 4 goes to fine tune it - hence the time running out. Basically setting it up in real time as per Stu's comments above.

Only ever used V-power on the GTi and the Autech - everything else is a waste of time (in my opinion, sorry Sam... - as I am making the assumption that the cars, particularly the Autech, were set up on a standard a bit above this originally and that's kind of what the ecu expects to be happening))- also had this conversation with Matt. We reckon the car was never de-tuned on import for lower octane. I reckon if I went back for another run I would add some octane boost to the v-power to get it back to japanese quality fuel and it might get to the 175 bhp ex- factory number
 
Additional Information: Obviously I am not sure how relevant this is because I haven't done a before and after test, but I did an oil/filter change when I got it and its now running on Miller Oils CFS 10w-50 Competition Full Synthetic which is obviously a performance oil for 'competition, modified and high performance engines' blah blah.
 
i had my almera at racing line and wen i went back to pick it up the front bumper was off on the drives side corner and it was cracked where the phase1 splitter and the smooth bits on my old bumper [the one i sold fossil fuels]wouldent go back there again.
 
very good results, old school tuning rocks. for yourself i would check the timing, just so you know what is best for your car if your batery ever wnet flat or you had the dizzy housing off. plus Sam would love to know too lol
dd
 
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