Seebeebee's P1 N16
- Thread starter Seebeebee
- Start date
Behave. That will take 20mins to wire brush and underseal.
At the worst it'll take 2 hours to weld in some plates. Thats nothing to scrap a car for. My grey one was like that when i bought it, undersealed it and it went through 2 MOTs. I think the garage are trying generate work, id be getting a second opinion and then reporting then to VOSA if needed.
At the worst it'll take 2 hours to weld in some plates. Thats nothing to scrap a car for. My grey one was like that when i bought it, undersealed it and it went through 2 MOTs. I think the garage are trying generate work, id be getting a second opinion and then reporting then to VOSA if needed.
Thanks for the advice guys. I'll see if someone else can take a look and go from there.
Any tips? I know it's not rocket science, but what products did you use etc?
Couldn't see this on my phone.Yeah, it was a pretty shoddy photo as I couldn't use the flash. This one is a bit better, underneath the offside with my phone next to the back box...
Nearside is not as bad thanks to the fuel lines covering a lot of the exposed chassis.
Wow there looks like no underseal there at all, just black paint. Ph1 really didn't get much treatment. With any luck it's not too deep and that will all brush off. We can then treat it and seal.
Tales of the Rustmera continue...
Took it round to Ed's yesterday afternoon with a view to treating and preserving the rear chassis. After taking a look and getting a wire brush onto the particularly bad bits, we ended up with this...
There is bare metal, but also some big holes where the subframe is supposed to meet the chassis leg. There's also the slightly worrying crack running across the smaller hole in the chassis. And it didn't end there. This happened when I pushed on one of the plates that sit behind the rear bumper on the corner of the car.
We didn't bother with the wire brush on that part, for obvious reasons. Eventually we ended up with a pile of rotten underseal and bits of chassis. My car now is about 2kg lighter because of it.
So at this point it's obvious that the corrosion is more than just surface rust. Ed also had concerns about the state of my sills. Realistically I'm going to have to get a quote for welding, and then make a decision as to whether I want to go through with the expense, or can it. In the mean time, Ed broke out the Dinitrol and went about covering all of the affected areas. I've used Hammerite "Krust" on small body areas before, but as Ed said, Dinitrol is "like Krust on crack". It's proper stuff. It leaves a gloss finish making it look as though you've lacquered the underside of your car. Here's the area in the first photo treated...
And a before and after on the end of the offside leg above the back box...
At the very least, it's now covered and should fair the winter better than if it had been left. Obviously it by no means fixed, but it gives me a bit of time to consider my options. Would anyone that's had similar work done before have an idea of what it would cost? I know it's impossible to say from just seeing a couple of photos, but just to get a rough idea.
Also, just to say, huge thanks to Ed for all the help on this, and for using his Dinitrol. It's massively appreciated, as always!
Took it round to Ed's yesterday afternoon with a view to treating and preserving the rear chassis. After taking a look and getting a wire brush onto the particularly bad bits, we ended up with this...
There is bare metal, but also some big holes where the subframe is supposed to meet the chassis leg. There's also the slightly worrying crack running across the smaller hole in the chassis. And it didn't end there. This happened when I pushed on one of the plates that sit behind the rear bumper on the corner of the car.
We didn't bother with the wire brush on that part, for obvious reasons. Eventually we ended up with a pile of rotten underseal and bits of chassis. My car now is about 2kg lighter because of it.
So at this point it's obvious that the corrosion is more than just surface rust. Ed also had concerns about the state of my sills. Realistically I'm going to have to get a quote for welding, and then make a decision as to whether I want to go through with the expense, or can it. In the mean time, Ed broke out the Dinitrol and went about covering all of the affected areas. I've used Hammerite "Krust" on small body areas before, but as Ed said, Dinitrol is "like Krust on crack". It's proper stuff. It leaves a gloss finish making it look as though you've lacquered the underside of your car. Here's the area in the first photo treated...
And a before and after on the end of the offside leg above the back box...
At the very least, it's now covered and should fair the winter better than if it had been left. Obviously it by no means fixed, but it gives me a bit of time to consider my options. Would anyone that's had similar work done before have an idea of what it would cost? I know it's impossible to say from just seeing a couple of photos, but just to get a rough idea.
Also, just to say, huge thanks to Ed for all the help on this, and for using his Dinitrol. It's massively appreciated, as always!
It's as if they've galvanized it with salt.
My brown 2.2Di is pretty much the same, rust moving to arches, rear window too, not talking about the bottom.. After seeing those pics, undersealing black car just moved up in the priorities list.Rustmera update. The rust is back.
Although the Dinitrol did a great job of converting the existing rust and leaving a glossy seal over the top, it doesn't seem to be particularly protective or hard-wearing. Not a huge surprise when it's labeled as a primer for under seal treatments, but It's a shame it's started to come through so soon. At this point It's looking like I'm going to have to just slap a load of Underseal on it and hope it stays intact until the summer. Not really in a position to have welding done at the moment, and as Ed said when we were treating it, my sills will need work too.
I've also stopped using the car on a daily basis as I've moved to a new workplace near Central London and now have to take the train (something I'm not very happy about!). Still trying to get it out and about for the odd trip at least a couple of times a week.
All this isn't really helping my general feeling of indifference towards the car at the moment. It was never going to be a mint keeper, and had always been "just a first car" but the more I look into it, the more I want to be rid of it.
I don't suppose any of you lot are in the market for a rusty, high milage, QG15 engined Almera 5 door with a dangerous MOT Advisory? Anyone?...
On the plus side, it is very blue.
Although the Dinitrol did a great job of converting the existing rust and leaving a glossy seal over the top, it doesn't seem to be particularly protective or hard-wearing. Not a huge surprise when it's labeled as a primer for under seal treatments, but It's a shame it's started to come through so soon. At this point It's looking like I'm going to have to just slap a load of Underseal on it and hope it stays intact until the summer. Not really in a position to have welding done at the moment, and as Ed said when we were treating it, my sills will need work too.
I've also stopped using the car on a daily basis as I've moved to a new workplace near Central London and now have to take the train (something I'm not very happy about!). Still trying to get it out and about for the odd trip at least a couple of times a week.
All this isn't really helping my general feeling of indifference towards the car at the moment. It was never going to be a mint keeper, and had always been "just a first car" but the more I look into it, the more I want to be rid of it.
I don't suppose any of you lot are in the market for a rusty, high milage, QG15 engined Almera 5 door with a dangerous MOT Advisory? Anyone?...
On the plus side, it is very blue.
The primera's are dipped in galvanize from factory and then fully under-sealed,on my car,most of it is still in mint condition.Was the rest of the Nissan range of the same era done the same ?
Looks bad in the pics,any good solid surrounding metal where the rusty bits are to weld plates etc ?
Looks bad in the pics,any good solid surrounding metal where the rusty bits are to weld plates etc ?