Sr20de cam install tips/help

Well it turn out to be a bad tensioner in the end,but also today,the chain locked at the bottom somewhere,i thought it was game over when that happened lol,manage to free it again somehow,then it was rubbing on something else also,cranked over with starter with plugs out to see what would happen(at this point i had just about given up),engine blow abit of dust out lol,then dust stopped so must of been the chain rail ie plastic,so that sorted that lol,timing marks was right all along as i have been saying chaps,so i got a tensioner into the engine,cranks her over and fired up right away.

Only thing is the tensioner is leaking like a mofo,so i order a gasket now,plus new engine oil plus filter !
 
Prim gt said:
Well it turn out to be a bad tensioner in the end,but also today,the chain locked at the bottom somewhere,i thought it was game over when that happened lol,manage to free it again somehow,then it was rubbing on something else also,cranked over with starter with plugs out to see what would happen(at this point i had just about given up),engine blow abit of dust out lol,then dust stopped so must of been the chain rail ie plastic,so that sorted that lol,timing marks was right all along as i have been saying chaps,so i got a tensioner into the engine,cranks her over and fired up right away.

Only thing is the tensioner is leaking like a mofo,so i order a gasket now,plus new engine oil plus filter !
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If it jammed most likely it broke the chain oiler as thats what it jams on. check oil pressure asap

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Simcard said:
I'm scratching my head here. I've done about 5 cam swaps and always removed the tensioner as i just never like the idea of putting wood in my engine (not bothered who has, just that i never have a decent bit lying around). Sooooo all i've ever done is...

Remove No.1 plug. Put an 3'8 extension down there.
Turn the engine till it's at TDC (the extention will be at it's highest poing possible with fraction of turn either way where it doesn't move at all)
Check the cam lobes on Cylinder 1 are at 10 and 2
Zipped the chain to the gears if i've not bothered to get the timing marks in order
Slackened the Cam Bolts slightly
Re checked for TDC (no need really but do anyway)
Removed the tensioner
Removed the cam gears and let them drop in the gap
Swapped the cams
Usually when trying to get the cam gears back on, i put the exhaust gear on then turn the inlet cam slightly or visa versa to get the other gear on.
Put the cam bolts on finger tight
Remove the zips
Reset and lock the tensioner
Insert the tensioner carefully so that it doesn't "go off" and tighten it in place.
Turn the engine over twice by hand and check the tensioner has extended and the chain is now taught.
Tighten the cam bolts
Fit all the gubbings.

I really don't understand how you can do this wrong.
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bmi_liljon.jpg
 
Well these are a great upgrade,well better than stock,3.5k and after just pulls and pulls,exhaust is so much louder also.
 
Only difference is when coming off the throttle below 2k,the engine kicks around a bit,i think thats down to fueling,a nice tune will sort that,3-4k is just the same,idle is nice and lumpy also.So nearly just lke the Oe cams apart from maybe a fueling issue at lower revs.

Anyway i am glad i got them in the end.
 
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