Sr20de cam install tips/help

Think you need to start again and time it all up. When the chain goes on, the run between the exhaust cam and crank pulley needs to be fairly tensioned and all the slack needs to be on the run between inlet and crank so the tensioner does its job. With that much slack at the top i imagine thebtiming is all over the place and big risk of it jumping.
 
When i had that much slack once my tensioner had cracked and seized.
Is it like that even after a revolution of the crank?

Is the chain on the guide properly?
 
Yeah after every revolution,the chain is sitting on the guide,i will check tomorrow to make sure,its not the tensioner as i have 2 LOL,i have had both in and its the same,slack,FFS

Its so loose it just jumping teeth on the sprockets when hand cranking it over,so its now out again by one tooth LOL even with zip ties, i fix the timing AGAIN tomorrow LOL.

But why the slack weird !!!
 
this is why you shouldnt remove the tensioner.

Almost as bad as rocking the car backwards and forwards to take up slack in the chain................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ ford mechanic
 
Somebody must of installed cams before and took the tensioner out and then back in,did it tension right up after hand cranking the engine ??
 
Prim gt said:
Somebody must of installed cams before and took the tensioner out and then back in,did it tension right up after hand cranking the engine ??
Click to expand...

No, because its a shit dumb thing to fo when you can do the job without removing it.

Have you tried correcting the timing then starting it without turning over by hand... As i found when rotating the cam by hand it tended to slip...
 
Prim gt said:
Somebody must of installed cams before and took the tensioner out and then back in,did it tension right up after hand cranking the engine ??
Click to expand...

If you had followed the installation guide I posted before you started ir doesn't require the chain tensioner to be removed.........there is a little bit of slack in all chains as they reach tdc iirc anyway but if its all the way round then of course it's an issue

....phone....
 
As i have already stated i removed it to also replace it with newer design one,so please can people stop going on about i should of not removed it !

All i want to know is how do i get the chain tighten up abit,thanks so far !
 
I'm scratching my head here. I've done about 5 cam swaps and always removed the tensioner as i just never like the idea of putting wood in my engine (not bothered who has, just that i never have a decent bit lying around). Sooooo all i've ever done is...

Remove No.1 plug. Put an 3'8 extension down there.
Turn the engine till it's at TDC (the extention will be at it's highest poing possible with fraction of turn either way where it doesn't move at all)
Check the cam lobes on Cylinder 1 are at 10 and 2
Zipped the chain to the gears if i've not bothered to get the timing marks in order
Slackened the Cam Bolts slightly
Re checked for TDC (no need really but do anyway)
Removed the tensioner
Removed the cam gears and let them drop in the gap
Swapped the cams
Usually when trying to get the cam gears back on, i put the exhaust gear on then turn the inlet cam slightly or visa versa to get the other gear on.
Put the cam bolts on finger tight
Remove the zips
Reset and lock the tensioner
Insert the tensioner carefully so that it doesn't "go off" and tighten it in place.
Turn the engine over twice by hand and check the tensioner has extended and the chain is now taught.
Tighten the cam bolts
Fit all the gubbings.

I really don't understand how you can do this wrong.
 
Thats almost the same way i did it simcard,in that order too !!!

So i have reset the timing AGAIN,but as i turn the motor over by hand,the chain will just skip a tooth or 2 on the exhaust sprocket so easy,why is this happening ??,the tensioner is release with hook off and it popped out like it should,but little pressure on the chain,i understand that its oil pressure that makes it pressure the chain,but how can i get it pressurize if the chain if slipping on the sprockets,when just hand cranking,think what would happen if i even attemp to start it with the key Lol
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom