Biscuit Build

hahaha

what like a 2mm thick 92mm head gasket?!

don't think they make one and FUCK using one of them and tryna get it to seal and hold.

theres soo much to a build like this beyond bolting all these parts together, to get anything like the most from it
 
white_biscuit said:
What so much more is there to it..
Click to expand...

Everything has to work together.

Why are apple computers so much more efficient than a comparable pc?

Because each component was designed to work with the others.

Do you know what oversize valves you will use? Do you know if you need them? Do you know what stem size you need? Do you know if they even exist?

You really cannot just buy every part based on how pretty it looks, its brand whoring capabilities or its jdm credentials and hope they all fit together just dandy. Its a higher level of thought required. Higher than you are capable of tbh (or me. Or most people on this forum)
 
Im not purely buying things coz they look shiny or big

Yes i am working out what i think i need, and im not saying I've automatically become a race engine builder, but im trying to build an engine

Well, atleast im trying eh!
 
RAJackson said:
Dave bull shall be along soon to condemn the use of thicker head gaskets to change compression
Click to expand...

especially on a 92mm gasket which isn't the easiest thing to seal anyway...has to be perfect by sound of it

cory's having trouble with his atm he thinks, he's also struggling to make much more power from using a stroker crank on his 2.4 build.
he's like 20-30hp off where he was aiming and is now wondering if the cams work well with the crank, if the octopus header thats mahoosiv isn't working well,

all that and he's got 2 epic build alread to his name, a miko worked ve head so he knows its worked properly and very well, and a wealth of knowledge.

ammars not got a cam thats designed or proven for a stroker, not got a clue what header could/couldnt work well until it's tried out, very trial and error. I suspect doesn't have someone who knows the sr20de head well enough to work it to perfection for maximum gains. Plus to get to where he is now Corys had a couple of headers and intakes trial and error, and it still isn't working well on the 2.4 it seems


THIS^ is the kind of thing i mean Ammar...i'll happily eat my words if you bolt it all together first off and make mahoosiv figures, but imo it'll need a lot more trial and error to get there....thats all i was trying to highlight. And the only reason i'm trying to highlight it is cos i don't believe that you'll just be happy it works and runs.....anyone going to the time and expense of building a 2.4 wants some serious power....else whats the point?!

Thats what i've been telling you for weeks about there being more to it to get the most out of it...just the way you talk sometimes it's like its gonna be easy bolt on and go with uber powerz and i'd be highly surprised if it was.

thats all :)
 
Yeah man unless they go back to their original quote.
£620 is nismo territory tbh
And with my engine to finish, and Zante with the lads in 2 weeks, fuck that man
 
SANY0001.jpg
 
No that above looks the same width to me as a GTi-R Rod

I think the way it goes is,

VE - 10mm
DE - 12.5mm
DET - 15mm


Also, these rods are the lightest ones i've seen around

Eagle Rods - 525g
Manley - 574g
K1's - 524g
Carlillo - 525g
These @ 472g

So with a heavier crank, but REALLY light pulley's, fly and pistons should be ayt..
 
On the part that's machined flat at the big end bearing end.
The rods are tapered in the middle so you could get any measurement tbh.
The thickness is only important so you get the correct big end bearings anyway... GTiR or non GTiR so it makes sense to measure the thickness across the bearing surface.
The diagram you just quoted from raceworx is only good to establish the difference in shaft thickness.
Joe
 
Yeah as i said, not measuring bearing sizes at the moment.

This was just to confirm the differences in the rods for SR!

I hadn't seen Raceworx thread prior to this..
 
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